Ok I bought some chelated iron liquid to try and green up my Bermuda, ironite or milleroganite helps but never lasts long so I thought about spraying. How many oz/gallon should I try in a test area ? I think part of the problem is the hard clay and no topsoil. I am going to topdress the whole yard in the spring. Everywhere I leveled the yard with good topsoil the grass is very green. I got another soil sample this year so I'll have an idea soon when results are back on what to keep working on.
Chelated iron how many oz/gallon
Kevin917z
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Ok I bought some chelated iron liquid to try and green up my Bermuda, ironite or milleroganite helps but never lasts long so I thought about spraying. How many oz/gallon should I try in a test area ? I think part of the problem is the hard clay and no topsoil. I am going to topdress the whole yard in the spring. Everywhere I leveled the yard with good topsoil the grass is very green. I got another soil sample this year so I'll have an idea soon when results are back on what to keep working on.
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If added topsoil caused more green--it could be a fertility problem--make sure your nitrogen levels are good. No Bermuda around here--of course--but Bermuda can use a half-pound of nitrogen per month--or so I have heard. And make sure you soil is suited to Bermuda--clay is fine--alkaline soil is not. I have heard mildly acid is best--iron becomes more available. Hard clay is not good--irrigate it until you have soft clay.
It my cool-season tests--it takes lot of iron (as dry ferrous sulfate dissolved in water) to have any effect. It stains the grass a blackish-green color.
I did a test with a retail liquid iron, yesterday. I sprayed small spots with 2,4,6, and ten times over. I used 8 ounces per gallon in my spray solution.
It my cool-season tests--it takes lot of iron (as dry ferrous sulfate dissolved in water) to have any effect. It stains the grass a blackish-green color.
I did a test with a retail liquid iron, yesterday. I sprayed small spots with 2,4,6, and ten times over. I used 8 ounces per gallon in my spray solution.
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Odd soil test. Most soil labs give you decimals with the pH result--is that 8.1 or 8.9? What is your state and climate?
Is that a suggestion on what to use, or the levels present in your soil?
Most do not test for nitrogen because it comes and goes too quickly.
And 425 for potassium is insane. I think around 65 is an adequate level. Most grass does not need phosphorous--not legal in my state--and certain other states.
What laboratory did the test? Was it a home kit?
What do you think, soil experts? Kiril knows soil--do you have comments, Kiril?
Is that a suggestion on what to use, or the levels present in your soil?
Most do not test for nitrogen because it comes and goes too quickly.
And 425 for potassium is insane. I think around 65 is an adequate level. Most grass does not need phosphorous--not legal in my state--and certain other states.
What laboratory did the test? Was it a home kit?
What do you think, soil experts? Kiril knows soil--do you have comments, Kiril?
Joined
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20,757 Posts
Odd soil test. Most soil labs give you decimals with the pH result--is that 8.1 or 8.9? What is your state and climate?
Is that a suggestion on what to use, or the levels present in your soil?
Most do not test for nitrogen because it comes and goes too quickly.
And 425 for potassium is insane. I think around 65 is an adequate level. Most grass does not need phosphorous--not legal in my state--and certain other states.
What laboratory did the test? Was it a home kit?
What do you think, soil experts? Kiril knows soil--do you have comments, Kiril?
Is that a suggestion on what to use, or the levels present in your soil?
Most do not test for nitrogen because it comes and goes too quickly.
And 425 for potassium is insane. I think around 65 is an adequate level. Most grass does not need phosphorous--not legal in my state--and certain other states.
What laboratory did the test? Was it a home kit?
What do you think, soil experts? Kiril knows soil--do you have comments, Kiril?
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Bermuda does respond well to spoon feeding of N. Slow release helps but I've always dosed monthly with Milorganite to keep green without flush growth. A granular minor package works too.
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I tested a retail iron and micronutriet liquid, Bonide.
I got almost no greenup from the solution I used. I added 8 oz of 5 percent iron per gallon(with 6 other micronutrients). I applied an estimated one gal per thousand. It was not labeled "chelate"--so I assume there was none.
I applied at one, 5,7, and ten times over. Grass was fine fescue, and bluegrass.
I also applied several rates to 20 year old concrete. No stain resulted.
I got darkening of the green last spring when I used plain ferrous sulfate dissolved in water. It also stained 3 year old concrete.
I got almost no greenup from the solution I used. I added 8 oz of 5 percent iron per gallon(with 6 other micronutrients). I applied an estimated one gal per thousand. It was not labeled "chelate"--so I assume there was none.
I applied at one, 5,7, and ten times over. Grass was fine fescue, and bluegrass.
I also applied several rates to 20 year old concrete. No stain resulted.
I got darkening of the green last spring when I used plain ferrous sulfate dissolved in water. It also stained 3 year old concrete.
The values given were pounds per acre already present in the soil. They suggested 2 lb per 1000 sq ft of sulfur and using 10-20-10 every first of the month in May thru sept. I'm going to topdress about 1/4 inch of composted screened manure in the spring after dragging and leveling the lawn with screened composted top soil. Probably will add an inch of soul/compost on most of yard on top the clay. Where I have been filling the deepest low spots it's nice thick and green. Hopefully having the clay covered with the good topsoil and compost helps. Plus I want to treat with sulfur now and then before adding everything this spring.
I am in Oklahoma City metro the soil sample was taken to county extension office that is a coop with Oklahoma state university. They hand wrote the numbers into a sheet of paper and put check marks and circled the recommendations. Previous county test in other places I lived looked a lot more scientific and had more info for other elements
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Another important aspect of soil tests is that you should tell them what crop is growing (or to be grown) in the soil. Corn, soybeans, cotton, tomato, turf, alfalfa, pasture... and your yield-goal. 100 bushel per acre irrigated corn--needs more. Turf--home lawn--golf--or professional football fields have different levels of maintenance--different needs.
Some labs give everyone the same recommendation--for growing corn.
Soil potassium should be about 81 to 120 lbs per acre.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/agricu...mn.edu/agriculture/nutrient-management/potassium/potassium-for-crop-production/
Some labs give everyone the same recommendation--for growing corn.
Soil potassium should be about 81 to 120 lbs per acre.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/agricu...mn.edu/agriculture/nutrient-management/potassium/potassium-for-crop-production/
I told them it was for my lawn and I was trying to grow Bermuda in the clay soil samples I gave them.
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