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Big-D

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Long time lurker, I've always found great info on this board! I've got an issue now though that I just can't seem to nail down. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade, I enjoy taking things that aren't quite running right and making them right again. I guess it's the challenge and satisfaction of getting it going. That said, this one's very challenging. I picked up a heavily used Hustler super mini Z last week. It has a Kohler CV740 that didn't run when I got it. We got her running, she idles great, but boggs under a load. Also, after about 30 seconds of running at full throttle the exhaust glows red.:yow!:

The cylinders and crankcase were full of fuel when I got her. I drained and flushed the crankcase and replaced the oil and filter, completely rebuilt the carb (complete disassemble, ultrasonic cleaned, and reassembled with a new Kohler kit), replaced fuel pump and fuel filter. It still leaks fuel into the intake when left over night, I'm assuming the seat in the carb is worn out as it was spotless before I put it back together. Not that big of a deal, it has a shut off vaive... I'll address it after I get her running properly.

After all of that, we got her running... only to find out about the power loss under a load and the glowing red exhaust. I'm assuming it's running lean and thought for sure it was related to the flywheel and a broke key. Pulled it apart only to find that the key is in good shape and intact. While pulling the flywheel, I noticed that it had rtv on the intake manifold to head connections instead of gaskets. Thought it might be sucking air through them so I cleaned them up and put proper gaskets on... no help either.

I did find that one of the coils had a stripped bolt and was loose enough to make contact with the flywheel. The ends of the pickup layers on that side had been flattened due to the contact which forced them to separate. Kind of hard to explain, basically that side of the pickup was about 1 1/2 times the thickness it should be. I put it in a vise and compressed the layers back together, cleaned the edge up and bought a longer bolt to reinstall it. It holds fine now, not sure if it's contributing to the issue or not though. I'll try the "pull one wire while running" method to see if it reveals anything.

After more research yesterday, I decided to pull the muffler off to see if it might possibly be blocked. It has a pretty good sized weld repair right where it glows red. I ran it very briefly without the muffler to see if it changed anything, still loses power under a load. I'm assuming the weld repair is a bandaid for a symptom, not the actual problem.

Next step is going to be a compression check... should have done that already. :confused: This things got me pulling my hair out. It's not a bad mower. The hydraulics are great and really smooth. Hope I can get her straight, it's for my 15yr old son that cuts yards around the neighborhood.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!



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Discussion starter · #4 ·
I thought the exhaust manifold gaskets were bad too due to the amount of hot air down below the engine when it was running. Found that it's actually a hole on the bottom of the muffler. Looks like there used to be a plug over it or something to that effect. Explains why she's so LOUD!

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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Some info that I should have posted in original post:

The mower is an 2007 Hustler Super Mini Z per the serial number
Model: 927533HT
Serial: 07091539

The engine is a 2010 Kohler CV740 per the sticker
Model: PA-CV740-0028
Serial: 4109002541
 
Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
Just found this post by Pistonslapper and it's the info I've been looking for! I verified the flywheel was correct for a CV740, but looking at pics online for the newer version it looks like the keying is different than what I have. I think I have an old style flywheel, but the engine definitely has the newer style coils with a single connector.

Kohler makes a bunch of different flywheels...
The key is not to mix the flywheels with different coils...
If you use the DSAI 27 hp flywheel...you got to use DSAI coils and harness
The plain jane ignition that used standard inductive coils was available on 18 to 25 hp engines...
Off the top of my head...here's how to identify the more common Kohler Command twin flywheels...
Look a the flat area around the crankshaft hole..
If it has no drill mark it is standard ignition
If it has a slightly drilled hole...kinda like a dent..its DSAM
If it is drilled all the way through its DSAI
The newer DSAI flywheel has vents molded into it...not solid across the top.
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Here's a pic of my flywheel...

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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Ok, looking at the pic of a new style flywheel, I'm counting about a 13 tooth spread between the mid point of the magnets and the key way. On mine, even though the angle is off a little, it looks like there's a lot less spread.

I think I might try to pull it again and go keyless advancing the timing just to see if it improves.



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Discussion starter · #8 ·
Just pulled the flywheel off. There's a difference of 6 teeth verse the pics of the newer style. I'm going to put it back on without the key in the position that the new style would be and see how it goes. If it works out, I'll put a new flywheel on her.



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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Piston Slapper... you're da man! (even though you didn't see this.. lol)

I pulled the key, counted the teeth on the flywheel, made some marks and put her back together... she runs like a bat outta hell now! :drinkup:

Here's a few pics of it going back together. It took me a little while to post the results, I cut the yard after I got her going. :D

Not bad for $580!!!

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Piston Slapper... you're da man! (even though you didn't see this.. lol)

I pulled the key, counted the teeth on the flywheel, made some marks and put her back together... she runs like a bat outta hell now! :drinkup:

Here's a few pics of it going back together. It took me a little while to post the results, I cut the yard after I got her going. :D

Not bad for $580!!!

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D
The flywheel in the pic is used with standard ignition coils. non powered inductive coils that fire every time they flywheel goes by.
If you had a pair of those coils on your engine it'd run fine..
Not sure how long the flywheel that you manually timed is going to stay in place without a key ? ..I'm sure you'll figure it out..
 
Just found this post by Pistonslapper and it's the info I've been looking for! I verified the flywheel was correct for a CV740, but looking at pics online for the newer version it looks like the keying is different than what I have. I think I have an old style flywheel, but the engine definitely has the newer style coils with a single connector.

Here's a pic of my flywheel...

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So I am having a problem with a 26 hp courage after installing the conversion kit from dsai to MDI, could it be I need to change the flywheel?
 
Old post revived, and what are you talking about?
 
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