I have a 2004 Tiger cub with a 20 HP Kohler. The only thing I had go bad the first 11 years on it was the PTO Oguro clutch. It would blow one of the 20 amp fuses and shut down. If your mower is doing this unhook you clutch connection right in front of the motor at the frame. Get a multimeter and set to the lowest ohm setting. Put the red wire from the multimeter on the horizontal lead and the negative on the other one. The clutch should read some were between 2.2 and 2.8 ohms. If it gets down much lower than 2.2 your clutch is probably going bad and drawing to many amps thus blowing the fuse. Now for the rest of the story. Fast forward 7 more years and the mower shut down on me and blew the same fuse. So I had notice even after I put in the 1st clutch that the wires right at the fuse holders were very hot but continued to use it because every thing worked. What I now think happened is the fuse holders slowly went bad and started shorting out. This made the voltage regulator pump out 15 plus volts and not 13.8 to 14 were it should be. I think it also shortened the life of the 1st clutch I put in it because the first one lasted 11 years and the second one lasted seven. If those wires are getting really hot at the fuse holders after running the engine for a couple of minutes at full throttle and also not running the blades/PTO clutch I would replace them with weather proof in line fuses. I put in 30 amp fuse holders and just put 20 amp fuses in them. Replaced my clutch and they barley get warm now. The factory fuse holders on these older models are not weather proof and I read that people have had problems with them so check them out. It might just safe you from having to spend some dollars on a new clutch prematurely.
Speck
Depending on the hours on the machine, I think most operators would be thrilled with the life span of either clutch. Your point about the fuse holders is a good one. Welcome to the forum!!
Well..... you make some good points, but bad mechanical assumptions.
Poor quality fuse holders will corrode, especially if you let your machine get wet. Replacing them with heavier wire fuse holder isn’t necessary. Using a replacement holder made of rubber with a cap is a good idea.
Your whole idea about the v-reg pumping out over 14v because of a poor connection at a fuse (not a short as you stated) is nonsense. It doesn’t work like that. Voltage is regulated based on battery charge, not system draw. System draw would increase charging amps, but would still regulate voltage to around 14. And even if it did increase to 15, it wouldn’t hurt an electromagnetic clutch coil. An increase to 15 or above would indicate a poor battery/alternator connection or a failing v-reg.
All a PTO clutch coil is, is a coil. It’s an electromagnet field. It doesn’t pull big amps, or draw more if it is slipping, or draw too many volts if it’s failing.... the only failure an electromagnetic can have is a short, or the potting in the coil failing allowing moisture to enter into it and cause corrosion. Corrosion eats the coating off the windings and changes the resistance, thus affecting electromagnetism. This latter failure is rare. Typically failure of a clutch coil is right where the wires meet the housing. The external wire coating splits and shorts against the housing blowing the fuse. PTO clutches fail more often due to a worn clutch face or failed/seized bearing than they ever do of a failure or short of the actual electromagnet. Everyone is always sooo worried about checking OHMs on a clutch coil.... it’s a good thing to check, and very rarely the problem. It’s usually the external wires that cause high resistance. Not always, but overwhelming majority.
Overall thanks for sharing your experiences.
Poor quality fuse holders will corrode, especially if you let your machine get wet. Replacing them with heavier wire fuse holder isn’t necessary. Using a replacement holder made of rubber with a cap is a good idea.
Your whole idea about the v-reg pumping out over 14v because of a poor connection at a fuse (not a short as you stated) is nonsense. It doesn’t work like that. Voltage is regulated based on battery charge, not system draw. System draw would increase charging amps, but would still regulate voltage to around 14. And even if it did increase to 15, it wouldn’t hurt an electromagnetic clutch coil. An increase to 15 or above would indicate a poor battery/alternator connection or a failing v-reg.
All a PTO clutch coil is, is a coil. It’s an electromagnet field. It doesn’t pull big amps, or draw more if it is slipping, or draw too many volts if it’s failing.... the only failure an electromagnetic can have is a short, or the potting in the coil failing allowing moisture to enter into it and cause corrosion. Corrosion eats the coating off the windings and changes the resistance, thus affecting electromagnetism. This latter failure is rare. Typically failure of a clutch coil is right where the wires meet the housing. The external wire coating splits and shorts against the housing blowing the fuse. PTO clutches fail more often due to a worn clutch face or failed/seized bearing than they ever do of a failure or short of the actual electromagnet. Everyone is always sooo worried about checking OHMs on a clutch coil.... it’s a good thing to check, and very rarely the problem. It’s usually the external wires that cause high resistance. Not always, but overwhelming majority.
Overall thanks for sharing your experiences.
Well all I know is that before I replaced the fuse holders my volt meter was reading slightly over 15v. After I replaced them it was reading 13.9 and am no expert by any means but the voltage did change. Now in the process of fixing i did replace the ignition switch and the PTO switch if that could have effected it. I also would like to clarify the hours on my scag tiger cub related to clutch replacement. The machine over 18 years of service has about 820 hours on it so the first clutch went out at 11 years and the second one went out at 7 years. I would say that the hours per years use is constant having only mowed 2.5 acres at my home for the 18 years.
Also that is good to know about the external wires failing on the clutch. I did examine the wires upon replacement and didn't find any exposed wiring but I will defiantly look at them more closely next time this happens because those suckers aren't cheap.
Also that is good to know about the external wires failing on the clutch. I did examine the wires upon replacement and didn't find any exposed wiring but I will defiantly look at them more closely next time this happens because those suckers aren't cheap.
Scag was using some pretty poor quality fuse holders back at that time. I had a Turf Tiger that constantly blew fuses -- I always kept several in my pocket when mowing because I knew I would need them. When I eventually replaced the fuse holders the problem disappeared as if by magic.
This is what a 2004 Tiger Cub (mine) looks like after it burned to the ground. If you have an older one....change out the fuse holders and wiring.
![Image]()
Oh my lord, Thats horrible!!! If that doesn't convince old scag tiger cub owners to check out the electrical systems nothing will. I also want to add to my prior post that the reason I put 30 amp weather proof fuse holders with 20 amp fuses in them is because I just happen to have two of them that I had not used. I agree that the 20 amp weather proof fuse holder will work just fine. Also I didn't mention that my PTO clutch ohm reading was a .3 and I actually borrowed one two double check that mine was reading correct so hopefully that does mean that it needed replacing. Any way the important thing is the mower does seem to be working as good as it ever did. I will probably have to address the original spindles next as they are getting some play in them.
I was wondering if any body has any input/experiance into after market spindles for a scag. I am totally impressed with the oem spindles but there are a few after market ones out there that look like the same design with the greasable double tapered roller bearings that are way less expensive.
I was wondering if any body has any input/experiance into after market spindles for a scag. I am totally impressed with the oem spindles but there are a few after market ones out there that look like the same design with the greasable double tapered roller bearings that are way less expensive.
I did think of that but also was considering the after market spindles like Oregon or Sten because of the price. Do you happen to have any recommendation on a bearing replacement kit?
I have heard that timken makes really good stuff. Might be a good winter project. Also I have tried to find accurate info on what the scag spindles temp typically runs. I have an IF reader but have not shot them yet. I do know I can't put my fingers on them for less than a second with out getting burned.
I was just wondering because mine get really hot. I think its probably do to the wear on them. They are the original spindles to the mower and have 820 hours on them. I have always greased with high temp grease about ever 40 hours or so but not Lucas. I Run Lucas marine grease in both of my boat trailer bearings and am sold on it. I think it has a drop point of around 500 degrees. Per your suggestion I will use it also going forward on the tiger cub.
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