When testing valves I know you can activate them with 9 volt batteries. This is DC voltage but valves normally work on AC voltage. Just wondering how they can be opened with DC but they aren't a DC solenoid?
Whatcha talking 'bout big guy?Use two 9-volt batteries (not three) in series to activate a 24VAC solenoid. It works.
Are you kidding me?Just trying to save a solenoid or two from overheating on too much battery voltage.
More like don't blow smoke up my butt week Shoes.it's Be Kind To Solenoids Week, doncha know
Not necessarily true. I keep an 18VDC rig on hand during winterizing season, for activating Toro solenoids when I don't have controller access.Nobody's holding solenoids long enough to damage them, just bumping them to make sure they're working.
The exception, not the rule my friend from the big apple.Not necessarily true. I keep an 18VDC rig on hand during winterizing season, for activating Toro solenoids when I don't have controller access.
Let's see the math Mr. Meh :clapping:9 volts, meh - 18 volts, meh - 27 volts, not so meh
It'd be a lot easier to see if you showed me.Oh please. Anyone can see that a sine wave with a 27 volt peak is delivering less power than pure 27 volts DC, and that's even before you factor in the AC impedance of a solenoid.
Hell's done froze over lads, Boots kicked down some bonefides!!!!!http://www.tpub.com/neets/book2/1f.htm
the sine wave of AC has the effective value of .707 times the peak value
.707 times 24 volts equals 16.9 volts, which is where you get the 2 9-volt batteries in series to activate the solenoid rated at 24VAC
You are a changed man, Boots.You can do some more math to support the 18 volt recommendation. Start with a solenoid coil with a DC resistance of 54 ohms, and see what power it draws running on batteries. Power is the square of the voltage divided by resistance.
P = E² / R
18² / 54 = 6 watts
27² / 54 = 13.5 watts
I'll stick to the two (not three) 9-volt batteries for winterizings. If I had to run a system from battery power for extended service work, I'd use a battery pack and an inverter to power a controller.If one were to desire to hold a valve open for long durations, use a stationmaster or pro 48.
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So you used 1 or 2 12volt?Update on battery operation. I had a job where I wanted to operate some tough-access indoor valves on battery power through a cable I added specifically for the task. Again, the rig with the two 9-volt batteries proved its worth.
However, complications with coverage adjustments put battery operations into overtime, and I didn't have extra 9-volt batteries on the truck for when they finally ran down. Lucky for me, the 12-volt battery from my mumble-mumble-brand wire locater worked just fine as an alternate source.
Good job Dusty......I have your answer... A holding coil, or solenoid, is a current operated device. It doesn't care what voltage (AC or DC) is impressed on it as long as the voltage level does not exceed the voltage rating of its magnet wire insulation. As such, you can apply a DC voltage to an AC coil. To get the AC coil to work on a DC system requires a sufficient DC voltage be impressed on the coil so that the same amount of current is drawn as when the coil is operated on AC
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One single 12-volt lantern battery. That lines up with the old Weathermatic S24B solenoid being described to work with 12 VDC. It also lines up fairly well with the 0.707 conversion factor applied to the minimum must-operate AC solenoid voltage that I have seen given as 18 VAC. 18 x 0.707 = 12.7So you used 1 or 2 12volt?