try heating it up with a torch.

 

Do you have to remove the top nut to remove the blade.
If so cut the nut off and order a new bolt & nut.

 

At the shop we have a set of Grip Tight sockets that we use with a generous amount of KROIL(much better then anything you can buy at the store) but since kroil is hard to get try fluid film, it works as good just takes forever. You should be able to find the Grip Tight sockets locally.

 

Kroil is the best out there. Heat is a good idea too.
If you can't get it to turn, you can cut it off with an angle grinder and a slicer blade, and once the tension is gone, hopefully it will turn easily enough to remove with vice grips.

 

Do you have to remove the top nut to remove the blade.
If so cut the nut off and order a new bolt & nut.

that or impact and a air chisel

.

 

I normally tighten all my blade bolts via 1/2 ratchet, then torque with torque wrench.
I had some warranty issues with my mower so I took it to the shop to have the parts changed, while there I asked my tech to swap out my blades for another set I keep on my trailer. 3 months later, I 'm ready to swap blades again and its a Friday around 3pm, I get under the deck and almost bust my bA11's getting 2 of the 3 off and swapped. I get to the third one and NO way its coming off...I try and try to no avail, even pulled out the 1/2" air impact, no way. So now I am panicking, wth do I do, I got to get it off. I call my shop and tell him and he laughs and says, oh yeah we tighten down with a 1" air impact, WHAT! I hurry up and load my rig up and drive thru now rush time traffic to get there and sure enough he pulls out this monster impact, viola, off in 2 seconds...so I ask him whats the deal, always heard you weren't suppose to use an impact...his justification was, well you want the blade to stay on or you want to take a chance on the kid in the next yard getting hit with a flying blade...!?!? Since I have grand-kids myself, I understand his point. PS-Its almost blade change time too...

 

you could weld a wrench to it.

heat with a torch and pound a socket that is a size to small or a metric.

 

you could weld a wrench to it.

heat with a torch and pound a socket that is a size to small or a metric.

Weld a nut or anything to the head so you can get a bit on it. The heat from the welding will help it as well.

 

LuvMyFerris.............

A 1" gun? Now that is overkill. It is a wonder they did not strip it out. Sounds like you are better off changing your own blades. Next time have the shop take the blades off and you wait until you get home and put them back one your self. A 1" gun, I still can not believe that.

 

'Bout the only thing that's gonna work is heatin it up with a torch. Forget all that oil/kroil B-S. Waste of time and money. Break out the ol' hot wrench.
And use never-seez on the bolts when ya put the blades on.

 

Just remember that too much heat and you will burn the seals right out of the bearings and you will be replacing them next.

 

If you stripped the threads, good luck. If it's just the head of the cap screw that is damged, you can cut the head of the screw off. It will sometimes come out by hand after that. Don't use flat washers after you get it fixed. They now was a cupped washer
under the head.

 

Do they make an EZ-OUT that big?

 

We never impact the blades on . We change the blades daily in the field (we cut alot of ranch style homes with acres of bahia and the sharper the blade the better)and use a breaker-bar and socket . At the shop we use an impact to get them off. Theres no reason to have a blade so tight you cant get if off with a breaker bar.

 

Anytime you hit something it's going to be super tight, shouldn't really matter how you put it on, air or by hand.
I don't think, but anyhow...

Only two things I know of...
Get some Piece 3/8" Drive Bolt Extractor Sockets like these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-Piece-38-Drive-Metric-Bolt-Extractor-Sockets-67894.html
Yes, those are metric, they probably have SAE too.
I have some of these myself, haven't had a chance to use them but they look like they would work.

Or grind that momma off with a cutting disc on an angle grinder (wear eye protection!).
You have to do this careful so you don't cut too far into other steel parts, try not to get into them at all.
But once you cut the head off, the hardware falls off, you can twist the stub right out, might have to use a Vise grip.

Obviously, you regardless need a new bolt, but I'm guessing you figured as much.

 

I normally tighten all my blade bolts via 1/2 ratchet, then torque with torque wrench.
I had some warranty issues with my mower so I took it to the shop to have the parts changed, while there I asked my tech to swap out my blades for another set I keep on my trailer. 3 months later, I 'm ready to swap blades again and its a Friday around 3pm, I get under the deck and almost bust my bA11's getting 2 of the 3 off and swapped. I get to the third one and NO way its coming off...I try and try to no avail, even pulled out the 1/2" air impact, no way. So now I am panicking, wth do I do, I got to get it off. I call my shop and tell him and he laughs and says, oh yeah we tighten down with a 1" air impact, WHAT! I hurry up and load my rig up and drive thru now rush time traffic to get there and sure enough he pulls out this monster impact, viola, off in 2 seconds...so I ask him whats the deal, always heard you weren't suppose to use an impact...his justification was, well you want the blade to stay on or you want to take a chance on the kid in the next yard getting hit with a flying blade...!?!? Since I have grand-kids myself, I understand his point. PS-Its almost blade change time too...

Not so sure this shop knows what they are doing since over-tightening could be as unsafe as under-tightening. The reason torque wrenches are suggested is because that is the amount of force required to tighten the bolt to the point where it stretches the amount that the threads "lock". More can potentially cause a thread or bolt failure which results in launching a blade through the air just like not tightening it enough.

As for removing blade bolts; a six point socket is usually better because of the grip it gives to the bolt head. It is also better because it won't go on the bolthead unless it is clean of grass residue - another cause of rounded boltheads!

 

Don't like to heat the blade bolt. 50 cents of bolt vs $45 spindle. Easy choice for me. Had a blade bolt head worn half off. (local gov't mower, operator didn't care ) Ground the head off, used a wet rag to absorb grinding heat. A pair of vise grips unscrewed the stub from the spindle.

 

Don't like to heat the blade bolt. 50 cents of bolt vs $45 spindle. Easy choice for me. Had a blade bolt head worn half off. (local gov't mower, operator didn't care ) Ground the head off, used a wet rag to absorb grinding heat. A pair of vise grips unscrewed the stub from the spindle.

Yes, pretty much what I suggested but I'd expect blade bolts cost closer to $10
Granted you can pick one up aftermarket at a hardware store but they're not cheap and they have to be a certain grade,
the OEM bolt is made of a special material that is designed to snap off at a specific level of stress, buy the wrong bolt and
it either won't hold and fall off in operation, or worse hold on too long and whatever's tearing up the blade ends up tearing
into the rest of the mower...

The cup and all the stuff below the spindle (without the spindle itself), blade bolt and special washers and spacer is near $100 (blade too).
Everything but the spindle, blade and all, each, near $100.
I know, I have had to replace all of this.

Now the spindle I haven't a clue, but I don't want to know.

Ztr's have so much power that they built special blade bolts, this much I do believe.
They cost a near fortune but I wouldn't bypass this feature, they are designed to break off at a certain stress level
so that it doesn't cost even more in broken parts.

 

I normally tighten all my blade bolts via 1/2 ratchet, then torque with torque wrench.
I had some warranty issues with my mower so I took it to the shop to have the parts changed, while there I asked my tech to swap out my blades for another set I keep on my trailer. 3 months later, I 'm ready to swap blades again and its a Friday around 3pm, I get under the deck and almost bust my bA11's getting 2 of the 3 off and swapped. I get to the third one and NO way its coming off...I try and try to no avail, even pulled out the 1/2" air impact, no way. So now I am panicking, wth do I do, I got to get it off. I call my shop and tell him and he laughs and says, oh yeah we tighten down with a 1" air impact, WHAT! I hurry up and load my rig up and drive thru now rush time traffic to get there and sure enough he pulls out this monster impact, viola, off in 2 seconds...so I ask him whats the deal, always heard you weren't suppose to use an impact...his justification was, well you want the blade to stay on or you want to take a chance on the kid in the next yard getting hit with a flying blade...!?!? Since I have grand-kids myself, I understand his point. PS-Its almost blade change time too...

i cant beleve they use a 1 inch gun thats just stupid and i'am surprised they are not breaking the bolts off when tightening

 

I've hit many many items with my Ferris 1500 out here on the farm.

Keep in mind that you can break any nut loose with Schedule 40 PVC if you have a pipe long enough. It's pure physics.

In using the pipe...just get a longer pipe attached to a 24" breaker bar and an air socket (3/4" is better accordingly than 1/2").

Trust me you're not going to break the bolt or head off by torquing it. if you must, for extra torque on the 3 ft or 4 ft pipe,
wrap a tow chain around one end. Then wrap the other around a tree or your truck.

Then just drive away with either. I usually just use my legs to push the pipe. The handle to my speed jack serves many uses.
It unbolts at the halfway mark.

We've all had our battles with bolts.

 

So...Im the first to say this... Its a $10-$15 fix for a small engine repair shop. After that ONLY use the correct tool for the job.

 

Torch would be last resort for me, like said earlier it will melt the seal away and cuase the grease to wax up. Most of the time I had this problem was cutting on a wet Friday and go to change my blades on Tuesday to find they are starting to rust to the wash that rusting to the blade. A good impact gun should pop it off or you need to block the blade with some wood and that pipe wrench. Good luck with that.

 

Spend 30 minutes of hard ass surly painful work or take it to someone who does nothing but that and can do it for $15 more often than not they will just pop it off and hand it to you free of charge and absolutely no sweat or tears.

Proper maintenance and care will eliminate this from ever happening.
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