I think it's the Victory model. Bought around 2017 from walmart website for like $500 when the brand was new, now they're going for like $800, now they make them with flat-free hard plastic tires but the tires aren't interchangeable to mine.
I'm about to just part the whole thing out because I don't want to sell someone a problem but if someone maybe just tills their own garden and it's soft soil and they don't go deep maybe parts are usable for them otherwise this thing is useless I'd rather use my mini tiller on a 25cc power head.
I mostly break new ground but even some gardens that I till every year that aren't hard soil, the tire(s) keep popping, and the tubes are a pita to pry the tires on and off of the rim, ~$10 new tube(s) almost every single time I use it now.
Before I bought this I rented the big Honda read tine tiller, that thing is by far the best and I might buy a used one of those.
This earthquake did work good at first though I helped someone basically till a path through the woods and when we hit a root we'd manually chop it out of the way but chewed right through many 1-2" roots.
When I till garden areas though I usually sink the tines as deep as they'll go (about 8") by tilting the machine back and with this tiller the tires always spin at the same time, so when it's stuck in one spot tilling dirt, the tires are pressing with no where to go and I think it must be this is causing pressure on the tube valve stems which then breaks them and then rips the tube, but somehow this wasn't happening at first. I'm pretty good w machine repairs etc, and there doesn't seem to be any other cause.
Has anyone else had a similar issue? I don't see what I can do to prevent this. Even if I do one shallow pass and a second deeper whilst allowing the machine to still drive forward and not bind up the wheels, it'll likely still put pressure and cause a flat. I just changed the tube and within 15 mins of tilling it broke both tubes.
The Honda makes a much finer ground soil which is better than chunks of grass etc, drives fast for transport (the earthquake crawls painfully slow and if I remove the pins so it rolls free in transport mode the weight balance is that I can't just push it or I'm basically pushing it into the ground and have to kick push the base with my foot and inch it along like it's riding on two cinder blocks as wheels.
edit, I may try just bolting blocks of treated wood onto the rims like tank tracks, it might make rolling it through grass difficult but even if I have to pull it with a rope over my shoulder or put it on a cart or something is better than changing the tubes every 10 minutes. I know the tubes are installed properly too, it's that the valve stems extend and the rim itself presses on the stems and breaks the tubes. I'll post back how it goes because I need to till now and not trying to drop 3k on a new honda. When the earthquake works, it's good enough for gardens, when I did complete lawn renovations with the rented Honda it worked much better but I almost never suggest even tilling a full renovation anyway, makes a muddy mess shin deep until the grass establishes, it's just overkill, if the lawn is so bad it's better to just spray it all dead and slit seed deep and slow to basically till just the top few inches, and maybe add more good soil/compost on top.
I'm about to just part the whole thing out because I don't want to sell someone a problem but if someone maybe just tills their own garden and it's soft soil and they don't go deep maybe parts are usable for them otherwise this thing is useless I'd rather use my mini tiller on a 25cc power head.
I mostly break new ground but even some gardens that I till every year that aren't hard soil, the tire(s) keep popping, and the tubes are a pita to pry the tires on and off of the rim, ~$10 new tube(s) almost every single time I use it now.
Before I bought this I rented the big Honda read tine tiller, that thing is by far the best and I might buy a used one of those.
This earthquake did work good at first though I helped someone basically till a path through the woods and when we hit a root we'd manually chop it out of the way but chewed right through many 1-2" roots.
When I till garden areas though I usually sink the tines as deep as they'll go (about 8") by tilting the machine back and with this tiller the tires always spin at the same time, so when it's stuck in one spot tilling dirt, the tires are pressing with no where to go and I think it must be this is causing pressure on the tube valve stems which then breaks them and then rips the tube, but somehow this wasn't happening at first. I'm pretty good w machine repairs etc, and there doesn't seem to be any other cause.
Has anyone else had a similar issue? I don't see what I can do to prevent this. Even if I do one shallow pass and a second deeper whilst allowing the machine to still drive forward and not bind up the wheels, it'll likely still put pressure and cause a flat. I just changed the tube and within 15 mins of tilling it broke both tubes.
The Honda makes a much finer ground soil which is better than chunks of grass etc, drives fast for transport (the earthquake crawls painfully slow and if I remove the pins so it rolls free in transport mode the weight balance is that I can't just push it or I'm basically pushing it into the ground and have to kick push the base with my foot and inch it along like it's riding on two cinder blocks as wheels.
edit, I may try just bolting blocks of treated wood onto the rims like tank tracks, it might make rolling it through grass difficult but even if I have to pull it with a rope over my shoulder or put it on a cart or something is better than changing the tubes every 10 minutes. I know the tubes are installed properly too, it's that the valve stems extend and the rim itself presses on the stems and breaks the tubes. I'll post back how it goes because I need to till now and not trying to drop 3k on a new honda. When the earthquake works, it's good enough for gardens, when I did complete lawn renovations with the rented Honda it worked much better but I almost never suggest even tilling a full renovation anyway, makes a muddy mess shin deep until the grass establishes, it's just overkill, if the lawn is so bad it's better to just spray it all dead and slit seed deep and slow to basically till just the top few inches, and maybe add more good soil/compost on top.
