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anyone using a Kubota W5021 walk behind mower?

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#101 ·
treysoucie said:
Sounds promising. Usually when people have starting and idling issues 9times out of ten it's the pilot that's gunked up.
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The service manual sure helps. After viewing the pages from CS95 I see I put the float spring in wrong. Tomorrow, I will pull the carb apart again.

I am glad I have a air wrench to remove the blade. When I am sure the engine runs correctly, I will overhaul the blade clutch then check the valve clearance.
 
#102 ·
I just picked up a paper manual. I'll have to check the clearances and such on the clutch. I have a feeling it not gonna be cheap to get my non propelled 5021 back to OEM specs. I may strip it down entirely. Repair t it. Sandblast what I can and put her back together. It will make a nice yard vacuum I think
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#104 ·
Got some gas today and engine started with one pull but ran too fast and flooded. Pulled spark plug and confirmed so guess I will try to find a float and needle valve. Grrr. Would not start again even after drying plug. I did not change any of the carb adjustments as they were ok 15 months ago.
 
#105 ·
I will try to get you pics tonight... Does the float and needle valve look bad? are the floats set to OEM Spec? Have you messed with the idle air screw at all (it may me a fuel screw, if the adj. screw is upstream of the pilot circuit it is an air screw, if its downstream its a fuel screw)?
 
#106 ·
treysoucie said:
I will try to get you pics tonight... Does the float and needle valve look bad? are the floats set to OEM Spec? Have you messed with the idle air screw at all (it may me a fuel screw, if the adj. screw is upstream of the pilot circuit it is an air screw, if its downstream its a fuel screw)?
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The float is plastic and has no adjustment. I did not mess with any of the screws. I do not hhave any of the adjustment procedures for the sccrews but assume they were ok as when the unit was running they had been set (unless someone turned them when trying to start mower for my daughter)
The only parts I removed were the pilot jet, main jet, plastic choke pickup tube, float, float pin, float spring. Then carb cleaner. Since the engine ran so fast for 5 seconds before shutting down, I assume the governor had something to do with it.

If the float pin is not adequately sealing the carb, the chamber level will be too high causing flooding. I have just one page about the carb and it deals only with cleaning jets and float chamber. If you have more I would appreciate it
 
#113 ·
treysoucie said:
Try my later link
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They both work Got the service manual. What is not listed in SM is the adjustment screws on the carb. I see the choke is set 2mm back from the edge on the govenor.

As I mentioned the carb was in really bad condition. I did not remove the nozzle that the main jet screws into so maybe I should try doing that but right now I think that the adjustment screws may be foo bar. Possibly the owners manual (which i don't have) identifies which screw is which and how to adjust. Do you have any idea's?
 
#115 ·
pulled carb again today and had mower repair shop look at it. Since it is flooding, they say only float will cause this. The float shows no leakage and vacuum gauge shows closing against vacuum so they suggested, since the needle is steel and the seat is not changable, that I use q tip in drill and toothpaste on tip and try to polish the seat to remove varnish build up. At this point I will give it a try. The carb does NOT have a high speed adjustment but does have a low speed adjustment and a idle adjustment. They suggest that the low speed adjustent be started at 2 full turns then turned down in 1/8 increments when running.
 
#117 ·
The butterfly on this carb has a very weak spring and I noticed that the butterfly would snap closed when observed from the side as gravety helped pull the flap closed but when in the mounted position the butterfly did not move to closed. This was missed in the cleaning and the varnish could be heard with a squeek when manually working the flap. After another soaking in carb cleaner and manual manipulation at least 100 times the flap was better but not perfect. I guess 21 years of abuse has taken it's toll and varnish will come off in layers. It is easy to see why some give up and buy a new carb :dizzy:
 
#120 ·
I got the butterfly to operate as it should then put the carb on and set the choke to specs. Engine started on first pull in choke and ran for a minute but when I put lever in run engine would run with surging fast then slow. When back in choke engine running without surge I did not try to remove the nozzle but that is the only thing that I can try to do now. I see on the Sears parts list that the nozzle is repaceable. Does it press out or screw out. I see nothing in the SM about this.
 
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troynehls240
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