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Woops......I uninstalled Adobe Reader X and installed Adobe Reader 9 then updated it to remove vulnerabiliities because it has a Find function. The Find found nozzle on the SM which gives a screw torque. So the answer is the nozzle screwss out.
I should have started this project when the grass quit growing :) With the mower running the transmission worked like a charm but not the blade clutch.

The next part of the project will be to remove the blade, disconnect the cables and pull the engine from the mower housing to overhaul the blade clutch. I want the engine running right first. This beast should be good for another 21 years
 
took carb apart again today but could not unscrew nozzle to clean as frozen in place and I would have to drill and use easy out to remove. Decided to try running before ordering parts so I Reassembled, and mower started on first pull on choke then afte 10 seconds switched to run. mower continued to run smoothly for 15 seconds then started the surging.

As soon as I engaged transmission, the mower took off and surging quit.

Tried to engage blade but no rotation. Shut down and pulled blade actuator against return spring with pinch bar (more leverage than cable) and worked back and forth a few times spraying with penetrating oil. Started up again but blade did not engage. Tightened cable and blade tried to engage but no luck. Shut down and rotated blade by hand. Very stiff turning.

Before, tearing down clutch system, I viewed SM which says actuator plates are forced togeather engaging lining on break holder. I assume this is something like a brake shoe material on an auto. When I looked this part up on Searsparts it says no longer available. RATS. Maybe, it would be worth a try to tear down and see if parts can be rehabed. This mower is too good to part out :wall:cry:
 
hurricane on the way so need to put this away until fall. In meantime will search for parts.

One question though, When the engin starts it runs in choke with the normal putt putt and also for first 15 seconds then starts the surge, but when the transmission drive is engaged the engine powers up and the wheels turn so powerfully it takes off and engin runs normally, almost jerking the mower out of my hands. I am tempted to replace the pilot jet as I believe that it controls both low speed and mid range. Could the governor also need adjustment? It has never been altered from factory setting. Is the surge when sitting normal?

The engine does not quit.:confused:
 
I'm new to here, but I bought a W5021PC from Craigslist for $40.00. It looks almost new with no rust. The guy said it’s been setting for 2 years so I drained the very black oil out and drained the gas and replaced the sparkplug. I put Sea Foam in with the fresh gas and it started on the first pull. I was amazed! It smoked a little at first, but stopped after a few seconds. The only issue is the blade clutch. I pulled it apart and saw there is no pad left on the blade holding plate and Sears no longer carries that part. I bit the bullet and ordered the whole clutch assembly (167.00) but I think I made a good decision. $207.00 for a tank and several envious neighbors isn’t too bad. I’ll use it to vacuum leaves in the fall because this thing will suck the grubs right out of the ground. I am looking for a side discharge chute if anyone has one.
 
I got my 5021 running but waiting for cool weather to pull the clutch. Was there no way you could have had the clutch repaired? $200 is an ouch in this economy. Got any pictures of how hard it was to pull the clutch? I have a copy of the shop manual but it appears that after blade removal the whole engine needs to be pulled which means the transmission drive chain has to be pulled. Is their an easier way?

Right now if I start the engine it sort of hunts from slow to fast then slow but when I engage the transmission the mower jerks the handle out of my hand (almost) and drags me around the yard. When under load the engine smooths out. I am guessing that the fast slow fast engine speed has something to do with the govenor because the idle adjustment has no effect. What say you?
 
I was surprised how easy it was to pull the motor, but my mower isnÂ’t self propelled. I squirted WD40 on the mower shaft 3 or 4 times over several days and follow the instructions in the manual. The first plate that comes off is the one that has the brake pad type material and mine was completely down to the metal. Sears sold it for $67.00, but itÂ’s a discontinued item, so I bought the whole clutch assembly. Again, I was surprised how easy it was to put on, and it worked w/o any adjustment.
My experience is somewhat limited, but engine surging is usually caused by limited gas flow such as clogged jets in the carb, air filter, gas filter, gas cap ext.
 
I have cleaned the carb but I may order a pilot jet. The nozzel would have to be removed with an easyout as the brass tits are foobar so for now I will leave it alone. As I mentioned the governor slows the engin down. When I pulled the carb I noticed the governor butterfly not too smooth in operation but when I put some air wrench oil on the shaft it moved much better. The spring is tiny on the butterfy so that may be the problem, but as mentioned the engine starts on first pull and runs strong under load so I don't want to mess with the governor.

To get to the clutch, after blade removal I guess I could pull the 4 bolts on the housing. If I try to turn the blade by hand it is very stiff. The clutch cable is on the top side of the housing and the top of the clutch is splined so I guess you did not pull that part. I was hoping I could rivet some brake lining because I suspect that the lining is gone.
 
I have cleaned the carb but I may order a pilot jet. The nozzel would have to be removed with an easyout as the brass tits are foobar so for now I will leave it alone. As I mentioned the governor slows the engin down. When I pulled the carb I noticed the governor butterfly not too smooth in operation but when I put some air wrench oil on the shaft it moved much better. The spring is tiny on the butterfy so that may be the problem, but as mentioned the engine starts on first pull and runs strong under load so I don't want to mess with the governor.

To get to the clutch, after blade removal I guess I could pull the 4 bolts on the housing. If I try to turn the blade by hand it is very stiff. The clutch cable is on the top side of the housing and the top of the clutch is splined so I guess you did not pull that part. I was hoping I could rivet some brake lining because I suspect that the lining is gone.
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Just picked this up and am now going through it. Does anybody know how to tell the manufacture date?Is it coded into the serial number? The in-tank fuel filter seems like it will be a pain to maintain. Was thinking about doing away with it and just putting a filter in the fuel line. Any opinions on that? Also, does anybody have one that they are parting out?
 
I bought a new Kubota W5021 about 15 years ago, best walk behind mower ever built! Still works like new, never given me a lick of trouble. The turbo fan really assists in throwing the grass which in turn packs it in tighter to fit more in the bag. The curved handle makes it the most ergonomically comfortable mower.

So far this thing is bullet proof, but I did recently buy extra blades, air filters and another bag just in case Kubota stops stocking parts for it.

I still have the full color brochure from when I bought it, I'll try to scan it and post it. The W series came in two sizes the W5019 (19") or the W5021 (21"), and you could get it with or without the blade clutch and with or without self propelled. Mine has self propelled and the blade clutch. The "residential" version is what I have and it's better built and engineered than other commercial mowers, Kubota also had the "commercial version which had steel wheels that were also taller than the plastic residential model. The commercial model also had a larger fuel tank and the catcher bag was black instead of white.

It's a shame that Kubota never sold enough of these to warrant a continued production of them, not only are they build tough they also look good (if a mower can look good).
Own the 5021 Commercial, has everything you mentioned but has the white Commercial catcher also. Built like a tank but handles like a Paladin, better handling newer and cheaper mowers out there, but still awesome for a 25 year old mower.
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My uncle has two of these (a W5021 and a W5019), he is working on rebuilding the engine and asked if I could find the service manual for him. After a fruitless search online, I contacted our local Kubota dealer and they were very helpful, providing me with the manuals in PDF format.

I figured the manuals might be helpful to many others as well that own these aging workhorse mowers so I decided to share them.

Operator's Manual - W5019/W5021
Parts List - W5019
Parts List - W5021
Workshop Manual - W5019/W5021 (Mirror #1)
Workshop Manual - W5019/W5021 (Mirror #2)

Long live these mowers, they were a great product and it's too bad that Kubota no longer carries them in the North American market.

*trucewhiteflag*
Hello, I recently bought one of these beauties.
I'm trying to find the service manual.

These download-links don't work (anymore?)..

Any chance someone still has these manuals?
Could you share them with me?

Thanks!

Jan
 
Discussion starter · #137 ·
my original W5021 with 21in blade got away from me .. been looking for another one ever since. finally one popped up on Craigslist. needless to say I jumped on it.

W5021-5C with 30in blade .. same 5hp engine and deck layout except 30in cut. digging for plastic recoil parts .. sure hope dealer can still source.
 
Hello all,
Proud owner of a W5021sc purchased by my grandmother in 1987 for $875. The self propelled just stopped working this last weekend. I read through the thread and tried some of the links (which don't appear to work anymore). Any chance anyone has the service manual pdf files?
Thanks in advance for your help!
 
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