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OrganicsMaine

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I am doing a lot of renovations this year on lawns that have been hit hard by grubs. One customer has a lawn care service that recently put down grub control and I found about 10 dead grubs under every patch of dead thatch that I pulled up. I know that we can use bene. 'todes, but I also remember somebody writing on here that they only work when conditions are right.

So what are the proper conditions for these to work, and what other options do we have for an organic control of these?
 
I am doing a lot of renovations this year on lawns that have been hit hard by grubs. One customer has a lawn care service that recently put down grub control and I found about 10 dead grubs under every patch of dead thatch that I pulled up. I know that we can use bene. 'todes, but I also remember somebody writing on here that they only work when conditions are right.

So what are the proper conditions for these to work, and what other options do we have for an organic control of these?
It is very interesting that you bring this up, I was standing in a booth at a show today talking about this very thing

In fertile soil we want a diversity of life, bacteria, fungi, nematodes, worms, arthropods, etc and yes even grubs.

they balance each other out and one cannot exist without the other in most cases, one paratizes another, it is the ying and yang in soil

when we spread dylox for instance we blast them all and create a void, mother nature hates a void, the quickest ones to get back in are typically pathogens and you start the negative cycle all over again

Tim posted a great one a couple of years ago about how there are 4 different types of nematodes, fungal, bacterial, root feeders and one that eat other nematodes. you need them all to keep a balance. The bacteria and fungi breakdown the OM, they are paratized by another that are paratized by another and so on

afterall they have been doing this for over 650 million years and have figured it out by now
 
Don't really know, but I heard a rumor that you can spray these --but--it works best at night, and should be watered in. They need to get down into soil before the sun comes up. Of course, you don't want a lot of chemicals in your sprayer probably a new backpack would be best. Nematodes do not keep too well. Pay careful attention to the expiration date and storage instructions--some need to be stored in a refrigerator.

I am thinking it would be best to apply milky spore, also.

Dr David Smitley of Mich State Univ has been collecting natural enemies of the European chafer grub from the area of the country where these grubs first appeared. Last I knew he was making progress. At one time he had an event were cooperators were allowed to dig up grubs on a golf course on day a year. The grubs had been infected with a disease so you would take them back to your yard or clients yard and they would crawl out and begin infecting other grubs in your neighborhood.

http://www.michigan.gov/documents/mda/mda_HortFundRptSmitley01312008_230350_7.pdf
 
Here is a good Fact Sheet from the University of Colorado
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05573.html

They need to be alive when you go to use them.
They don't like sunlight
They need to be used right away within 4 hrs of mixing.

larvae killed by some Nematode types will change color.

E.G.

•Heterorhabditis bacteriophora

Reddish-brown color

•Steinernema carpocapsae

Yellow Color

Tim Wilson sells microscopes. Then you know for sure about nematode population.
 
We have been using these for a while with a lot of success, we put them down in the rain if possible, either mornings or late afternoon. They must be watered in for three days. Depending on the area it might be too late to use them, they must be put down before it is too cold and they need at least a week to work.
As for putting them down at night, not necessary.
 
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