I am in southern Georgia similar temps I would go ahead and treat I know in a couple months it will be gone but treating now should make it easier to tackle next spring. Fyi great results with celcius on St. Augustine.

 

Not sure how much of it is in the yard...but with those temps and where your at...fill in will take a while...don't think anyone wants to look at bare spots all winter.
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Don't have a label in front of me now, but check for Buttonweed; using Simazine now would give about three weeks of pre-emergent control. Otherwise, Dismiss or Celsius would be a good choice.

 

Don't have a label in front of me now, but check for Buttonweed; using Simazine now would give about three weeks of pre-emergent control. Otherwise, Dismiss or Celsius would be a good choice.

I was thinking about a Dismiss & Celsius combo, have to check label. I looked at the simazine label and it does not list buttonweed, do you think it would have pre-emergent action on this?

Diamond,
You're right fill in will be almost non-existent, will make sure to tell customer this.

 

I was thinking about a Dismiss & Celsius combo, have to check label. I looked at the simazine label and it does not list buttonweed, do you think it would have pre-emergent action on this?

Diamond,
You're right fill in will be almost non-existent, will make sure to tell customer this.

Atrazine is labeled for Button Weed.

Sorry I don't know your climate and can not advise best treatment window. My area, turf is year round growing season. However From now till spring we are in the slower part of our growing season. I hate to kill out large patches of weeds this time of year because the turf doesn't grow in as quick. I don't want to plant Rye grass because it will compete with the desirable turf in the spring.

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Atrazine is labeled for Button Weed.

Sorry I don't know your climate and can not advise best treatment window. My area, turf is year round growing season. However From now till spring we are in the slower part of our growing season. I hate to kill out large patches of weeds this time of year because the turf doesn't grow in as quick. I don't want to plant Rye grass because it will compete with the desirable turf in the spring.

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I've never used atrazine, kind of afraid of it. Are there any pre's for buttonweed, Gallery maybe-even though it is not on the label, just wondering?

 

Virginia Buttonweed will check out over the winter anyway so why is everybody worried about spraying and leaving bare spots. Treat now take advantage of what little growing season you have left, more competition against it next spring.

 

Virginia Buttonweed will check out over the winter anyway so why is everybody worried about spraying and leaving bare spots. Treat now take advantage of what little growing season you have left, more competition against it next spring.

I disagree. He's already getting lows in the 60s. We are mid 80s during day here and mid 70s at night and our st aug has already slowed down. He's not going to get much of any fill in, even by pounding with fert(which won't do much given his temps). I would wait till next spring personally DEPENDING how much buttonweed there is....if its a little, sure, kill it now. If its a lot, I wouldn't go killing it now given where your temps are at.
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It's beginning to turn a little purple here because of the cool nights. That and increasingly shorter daylight hours are slowing all turf and most summer weeds down. If a weed isn't growing, it will not die. Communicate to the customer that spraying it at this time would do more harm than good. If it is large patches I would be on it as soon as it shows itself again next spring. I spray buttonweed in St. Aug with 1oz/acre metsulfuron+MSO. I have a friend who spikes this with a herbicide called Spotlight. He swears it actually will eliminate Virginia Buttonweed. I have only been able to control/supress it with the straight metsulfuron/MSO mix I use.

As far as I know, there is no pre-emergent to control it. If you find that there is one, please let me know.

 

I see what your saying absolutely I am just speaking from experiences I have had treating big mats of it last couple seasons at this time of year. The lawns where really able to get a jump on it come spring time. Lets face it one app now is not going to completly eradicate it thats why to me I am not worried about bare spots at all. Also One thing that really suprised me was how much grass was actually under the mats you just did not realize was there. Not saying anybodys wrong I just dont use the possibility of bare spots as a detterent from spraying when I can give the turf a fighting chance.

 

Just thought I would give an update on this. I applied Celsius at max rate with Dismiss a 4oz/acre rate. It really did a job on it. It has withered away to the point you cannot see it. I had some warm weather which helped. The new customer is impressed. Dismiss really seemed to help as I treated another yard with buttonweed a little earlier without Dismiss and it did not do nearly as good. Of course I know it is not gone forever. I will get on it earlier next year.

 

For the record, speedzone and quicksilver work wonders on buttonweed.

 

For the record, speedzone and quicksilver work wonders on buttonweed.

Why combine the two? Do you know that SpeedZone has carfentrazone (ai in Quicksilver) already in it? What rates are you applying?

Sounds like a lot of carfentrazone. I would be concerned about off-target injury.

Speedzone also has wind speed restrictions that Celsius and Dismiss do not. 10 mph is a low cap and I wouldn't want to deal with any fines.

 

Sorry I meant to say 24d and quicksilver.

 

Straight 2,4-D carries the same restrictions.

 

I hear what you're saying, Superscapes. SpeedZone is carfentrazone (Quicksilver) + 2,4-D + MCPP + dicamba. I find that a lot of times these premixes are more expensive than buying the ingredients and mixing them myself -- and I'm not stuck with the ai rates they want to mix.

green, I believe the 2,4-D restriction is not less than 3 mph and not more than 15. The MCPP restriction is not more than 10. But, the 2,4-D label says that even if you're within the 3-15 mph restriction, you can't apply it if susceptible off-target plants are within 250 ft downwind. That's harsh.

 

I know you had nothing to do with it, but then it is up to the EPA/state AG to determine and define exactly what is susceptible. We can thank people who spray when it is windy and use equipment prone to causing drift. Personally, I have been using ester herbicides for years, even in windy Hawaii. Never had a problem because I use drift reducing equipment and there are certain sets of weather conditions that I call no spray days. High winds, swirling winds or still and humid conditions are examples of no spray days.

 

I don't want to get too far off topic, but I think you're right that the EPA crapped the bed on this. They don't at all take into account drift reduction techniques. If you use a chemlawn gun to make your apps, you've got bigger droplets that are less prone to drift than if you use flat fan nozzles. If you use a shielded sprayer, you're less prone to drift than non-shielded sprayers. But, EPA doesn't account for any of that.

End of rant

 

Properly operated air inducted nozzles also minimize drift. Last time I had to spray a buttonweed infested lawn, that was treated with a combination of metsulfuron and Speedzone Southern. Don't let that drift. Air inducted nozzles operated at 40 PSI kept that mix out of the trees and adjacent flower beds.

 

FMC Blindside will also kick buttonweed in the teeth. Not a cheap product, but very effective in St. Aug even in hot weather.

 

Metsulfron at 0.0115 oz p/1000 sq ft + mso at 0.50 oz p/1000 sq fr will fry buttonweed.
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I haven't looked lately but I think Blindside is a mix of dismiss & Metsulfuron. Next year I will hit it early with metsulfuron maybe mixed with quicksilver.

GD,
Do you think Gallery would have any pre effect on the buttonweed seeds? I know the established plants come from tubers but the are some plants that emerge from seed. It is not on the label but was wondering?

 

It is often better to roll your own Blindside. I have used metsulfuron and Dismiss together. The rates used are based on the amount of metsulfuron needed to totally kill the target weed and the minimal amount of Dismiss needed to effect foliar damage. My preference is to add Quicksilver to metsulfuron, keeping Dismiss for dealing with sedges, goosegrass and crabgrass. Quicksilver also has a much more generous annual usage limit, important for those of us with long growing seasons.

Gallery will stop the seeds from germinating so prolifically. Take note that Gallery has no effect on live rhizomes or roots. If a weed is not emerging from seed, it does not work on that particular weed. Results may be equivocal if the weed is emerging from vegetative structures.