You verified no spark, correct? This isn’t just a no start condition, right?

Why did you replace the coils?

The single most likely cause of no spark in this instance would be the magnetos (ignition coil) is being grounded out. First most likely cause is you pinched the kill wire when install the flywheel shroud. Second most Likely cause is from a misplaced wire or faulty safety switch.

As a test, you could pull the kill wire out of the engine harness connector. You will have to ground that wire to shut it down if it starts. Otherwise, start chasing wires.

 

You verified no spark, correct? This isn’t just a no start condition, right?

Why did you replace the coils?

The single most likely cause of no spark in this instance would be the magnetos (ignition coil) is being grounded out. First most likely cause is you pinched the kill wire when install the flywheel shroud. Second most Likely cause is from a misplaced wire or faulty safety switch.

As a test, you could pull the kill wire out of the engine harness connector. You will have to ground that wire to shut it down if it starts. Otherwise, start chasing wires.

I replaced the coils because one of them was bad. I figured that if I replaced one and I was already in that deep I just as well replace them both. I have disconnected the kill wire and still no fire. I got the two other new coils that are marked 1&2. I’m going to replace them and see what happens. I’ve already tested all of the safety switches and they everyone test good. I have literally done everything I can think of to this engine I even pulled it all apart and made sure it was in time which I already knew it was but I still checked it anyway.

 

I want to first know you verified no spark though....

 

The reason why I ask is because the two coils they gave me are exactly alike. I looked in my manual and it shows the coils as looking the same but the wires are on opposite sides ?

That is interesting that you say that. Couple of weeks ago, I replaced the coils on an FX801. Both coils looked exactly the same, just 2 different part numbers. I could not see any difference in them. I know from doing these, that the wire is longer on the one side.
Anyway, I made sure that the coils went on the correct side as to there part number. Any chance you could have flipped them ? Wrong side ? And FWIW, I use a filecard to set the air gape.....
.

 

They would still fire even if they were on the wrong side. As long as the magnet passes by, a magneto doesn’t care. They would still fire even if you spun the engine backwards.

 

Chances are you wouldn't have gotten two brand new defective coils. One maybe. Two, highly unlikely. If the kill lead is disconnected and still no spark that leaves a bad flywheel magnet or if they will mount upside down, maybe they are upside down. Some coils won't fire if mounted upside down. Some won't fit if you try to mount them upside down but some will. Just a thought.

 

How exactly could you mount a magneto upside down?

And a coil can be mounted upside down and still fire, but they typically overheat mounted in that position if they are oil filled.

I do agree that the likelihood of two coils out of the box is extremely, extremely unlikely. Even if they were both China made

 

Upside down was probably a poor chose of a word for a horizontal engine. Wrong side out is what I meant. I don't know of any that could be mounted with the towers pointing away from the flywheel. Since I do know of one that won't fire mounted wrong side out or if it does fire it's very weak I couldn't say another one out there might not work the same way. I don't know every ignition system and will admit to not being extremely familiar with Kawasaki. Thought flipping it over might be worth a try.

As far as magnetos go,Tecumseh was probably the only company that actually was correct with their use of the word magneto. Other than actual magneto manufacturers like Fairbanks Morse or Wico. For Tecumseh, magneto included, points, condenser, coil, lamination and flywheel. The way I used to teach techs in my class was if the engine has points and condenser it has a coil. An engine without points and condenser has an ignition module which includes a coil and the SWR or switch to fire that coil that takes the place of the points. Even so we still used the terms ignition module and ignition coil interchangeably. As long as we all knew what we meant it was fine.

 

Upside down was probably a poor chose of a word for a horizontal engine. Wrong side out is what I meant. ............... Thought flipping it over might be worth a try.

I follow you now. I've never ran across one mounted wrong side out, and I've never mounted one incorrectly. I suppose some may have a diode in the coil to prevent backfire. Plausible.

 

The magnet is on the flywheel. The coils are mounted the only way I could mount them with the ones they sent me. I spaced/ gapped them with a normal size business card per the company I bought them from. They both are #1 coils and the manual calls for a #1 & a #2 coil which I got this time. I haven’t installed them yet because I have to remove the engine to access the coils because of the fan shroud. I was just trying to figure out if it could be something else before I go through all of the trouble of taking the engine back loose. Not a big deal I’ll try it. I just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas I haven’t tried yet. Thank you.

 

If you can’t access the coils because you can’t remove the fan shroud unless you remove the engine..,,, then how exactly were you able to unhook the mag kill wire from the coils as I suggested, and you stated you did try?

 

This is the engine I’m working on. Note the spark testers and the coils are there. The kill wires I disconnected are the little wires on the coils/magneto’s or what ever they are called. Still no spark.

 

I see and understand now.

Pull the engine, pull the cover and post a picture of the ignition set up. I want to see it.

 

This is the pictures I got

 

Spoiler alert; I am not an expert! Just a few thoughts, I would have both coils mounted in the same orientation. Before checking for spark, disconnect both ground wires at the quick disconnect terminal on each coil to rule out a damaged wire. When checking for spark, how about having the high tension lead just close to a good ground instead of going through the spark tester and then the spark plugs? Hope you find the problem, good luck.

 

Before checking for spark, disconnect both ground wires at the quick disconnect terminal on each coil to rule out a damaged wire.

That was already done and he says still no spark.

@Scott Griess
Roll the magnet up under one of the coils. Does it line up under the towers? Does a screwdriver still stick to it?

 

Sorry J.Baker but in two pictures he has the spark tester inline and looking closely, I can see that the coil ground wire is connected to the coil. As you mentioned, if the shroud pinched the ground wire for the coils, no sparky.

 

Yes, they are connected in the picture. But he says he unhooked them and tried to start it.... still no fire. Have to go on what he tells us.

 

Can you check that wire on the coil? Looks like it’s been pinched or cut somehow. Check the wiring on the other one as well.

 

Can you check that wire on the coil? Looks like it’s been pinched or cut somehow. Check the wiring on the other one as well.

View attachment 515306

While I agree it looks damaged, it is a kill wire, not a power wire. If there was a problem with them it wouldn’t shut off. Unhooking the grounding kill wire (the one you are referring to) eliminated them as the source of the problem. However, if they have a bare spot, they should be repaired.

 

say if you have yet to get spark here is a link to a YT that shows how to test the mags if you got it going then let us know thanks

https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?ei=UTF-8&q=how+to+test+a+magnito.#id=1&vid=82265d1edb5607f552849b2364296640&action=click

 

Sometimes it is something very simple. Try running a jumper cable from the battery ground directly to the starter ground or a good ground on the engine.

 

well could be tru but if it cranks it has a ground besides the mags are self grounding just because they are bolted to the engine. if you could rope tstart it the battery would be useless test the coils as per that YT to make sure they are good coils you can do it with them on the engine it is simple.

 

Hey, I had another thought.
@Scott Griess you put new mags on it. Did they come with the spark plug end on them? Or did you have to install the end?

 

They came with the ends on them

 

I didn't see anything mentioned about air gap. You did set the air gap on the coil didn't you?

Usually about .010" to .012".

 

I didn't see anything mentioned about air gap. You did set the air gap on the coil didn't you?

Usually about .010" to .012".

Yes I set the air gap.

 

With all that you have done. I see the following ignition modules are mounted correctly (as per SM), a business card is OK for spacing (manual .010-.016 per SM) bolt torque 30 in. lb. You have tried with the shut off wires connected and disconnected. Still no spark.
Suggest checking 1. The flywheel magnet for strength. Does it hold a decent sized wrench or screwdriver. 2. Remove Ignition units (the "coils") clean the mounting studs and the ignition units to be sure you have a good ground. I have even used small star washer to be sure of a good ground.
To test ignition units primary use an ohmmeter from lamination (A) to shut off terminal (B) - on A + on B open or infinity-- - on B + on A 2.2-3.6 Kohm----- to test Secondary lamination (A) --- Spark plug terminal (C) -A + on C 13-21 Kohm --- - on C +on A 13-21 Kohm.
The only other issue that I can think of is did you get the correct ignition units? early units used a separate Igniter. If it failed you had no spark.

 

Yes I’ve done it all. I went ahead and replaced the coils again. Today. It fired right up and is running great for now anyway. Thank you for your help.

 

based on the parts lookup i did not see any igniters for this engine this is from jacks kawasaki repair site. and looking at the electrical page

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/kawasaki/4-stroke-engine/fd750d/fd750d-as00-4-stroke-engine-fd750d/electric-equipment

 

Thank you. I have it running now.

 

So I have the same motor. Same but different problem. different because it would start then stop after 10 m- 20 min use, Replaced Carb Coils plugs no change. Short story it was a short some where. unplugged all connectors I could get to. Cleaned with electric cleaner. Plug in and out ran and never stopped. Fixed. except now it runs like crap. I think I may have the #1 and #2 coils switched. I just put old carb on and swap the coils. Hard to find which is cyl 1 or 2. Diagrams do not give a perspective point of view. I read somewhere someone's manual said #1 cyl was on the oil filter side. Here I go. Luck I do not have to pull the motor, I have a Simplicity Legacy Had to cut some sheet metal that made it a lot easier.

 

To add: Most of the diagrams do not show current part numbers, with an A or no A, soooo??

 

I'm working on one of these motors. FD750D gas engine. Toro Z Master 72. It seemed very apparent it was intermittent spark from one cylinder. It would change pitch, but not drop RPM much. RAAAArooooooRAAAAroRA. Yall know the sound

So pulled the #2 plug wire and it almost shut off, but came back to life and ran kinda off and on. OK, #1 coil must be bad. Put the spark tester on #1 and cranked it, ran and spark looked good and consistent, but still misfiring. Pulled plug and it looked new, but changed it anyway. Tested again. Still sounded funny, pulled the #1 plug wire this time (the one that was misfiring) and it shut off

Huh???

So the problem is playing whack-a-mole

Replaced the plug on the other side and tried it again. Now it's running on both cylinders, at that time anyway. Both plugs looked like they had just been changed recently, so...??

I'm afraid something weird is going on to make the "bad" coil/spark plug flip-flop like that, but have no idea what could have caused that. Both kill wires are tied together aren't they? If it was arcing wouldn't Both be losing spark simultaneously?

I checked compression on both cylinders at around 140. One other detail is I put back the plugs that it had in it, BPR4ES, but after checking the parts list for this engine, they list BPR2ES plugs, 2 steps hotter..

I don't think a couple steps cooler plug would cause this issue, but maybe...

 

I don't think a couple steps cooler plug would cause this issue, but maybe...

Maybe....

There are counterfeit NGK plugs out there. The insulators will break/crack.

Check the primary where it comes out of the shroud for wear. Same with the kill wires, any little cut/crack and they can arc, mostly at the turns/bends.

Talk about weird. We had a TS400 chop saw. Always ran NGK plugs in it, then one day it started to act up. Then tried Champions, same problem. I know it wasn't the plugs cause they would run fine in other equipment. Put a Bosch in it. The problem went away. 🤷‍♂️
.

 

Well 💩

Just put the new coils on. Same problem. Must be the 2 barrel carb is clogged on that side... I hope.

Compression tested good. It kinda comes and goes, runs ok, then starts skipping...

🤦‍♂️

 

Think I *might have figured it out. Removed the carb and checked the jets, I may or may not have found something on the #1 cylinder jet. Overall looked pretty clean in there. Solenoid seems to be working good

But inspecting further, found the barrel of the carb that's causing issues has a good bit of wear in the throttle shaft, and the clip and rubber seal is missing. Causing the engine to suck air in that spot. It's not a big gap, but maybe enough to cause that side to skip????

What do yall think?

Only problem, is that part appears to be no longer available (16185-2039)

 

Stuffed 2 orings in there and a new clip. Maybe running a little better now, but still misses. It's a sudden on/off/on symptom. Not wavy like a surging carb. Very sudden and defined skip