According to the label, yea, you may have to re-apply. Maybe Wait a week or 2 first and then re-apply.

I was planning to spray next week and saw rain on Tuesday as well so I was gonna wait till Wed.

 

i sprayed celcius last yr on a yard and it rained about 12 hrs later and it didnt hurt it. i got 100% weed kill. but it was in summer so i dont know how itll effect it in winter

 

I don't know about your product.
In experiments I did two years ago, the herbicides I used on cool season grasses, 30 minutes was usually enough. I watered the weeds after 1 minute, 5 minutes, 15 minutes, 30 minutes and 45 minutes.

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=354369&highlight=riggle+rain+herbicide

 

Celsius is not a product to use this time of year. Way too cold. It needs to be at least 80 degrees for it to work in a timely manner.
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Celsius is not a product to use this time of year. Way too cold. It needs to be at least 80 degrees for it to work in a timely manner.
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Really? I heard it would be okay though may take longer to work. How bout atrazine this time of year?

 

Really? I heard it would be okay though may take longer to work. How bout atrazine this time of year?

Atrazine is fine
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Celsius is not a product to use this time of year. Way too cold. It needs to be at least 80 degrees for it to work in a timely manner.
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Well that answers another question I would have asked
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Like was said. Hold off on Celsius til summer. It has no temperature restrictions and you can do 2 blanket apps if needed.

 

Don't use it with a nis, mso only.
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How bout if you throw OCTANE in the mix??

 

I do not see anything about rain fast but it Say's it has a high potential for surface water pollution via run off. Recommends allowing a 48 hour window. I plan on only using this product for spot treatment. It also says not to irrigate until dry.



Will read the label a little closer when the time comes.

 

Don't use it with a nis, mso only.
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The label says use an NIS... What's the problem with NIS? What's the advantage of MSO?? Also I keep seeing people talking about mixing it with another product. How do I know what to mix it with, and mixing instructions for both combined?
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If you don't know what mso does, then you don't need to use it. Octane is ok with the mix. Quicksilver works better IMO.
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NIS sticks and MSO penetrates isn't that the jist of it....
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From the label....

TANK MIXING CELSIUS WG HERBICIDE WITH ADJUVANTS AND FERTILIZERS
• Inareaswhereweedpressureishighandadequatecoverageiscritical,addanon-ionicsurfactant(NIS)at0.25% v/v to the spray solution.
• For difficult-to-control weeds, the addition of methylated seed oil (MSO) at a rate of 0.25-0.5% v/v may improve weed control.
• Donotuseasprayadjuvantattemperaturesabove90degrees.
• Application of CELSIUS WG HERBICIDE with a spray adjuvant or nitrogen-containing fertilizers may damage turf
that is under stress.

I was just asking why one and not the other...
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I am going to have to disagree about not using Celcius now. I will say I do start a tad later than some of you [last week of Feb] but this is what I use for my first round. It might take a little longer to notice the weeds dying but they do dye and just not have the tops burned. It is safe for transitioning Bermuda and St Augustine [way easier on these than a 24d mix] and if they happen to have some Poa, Clump Fescue, Rye, Rescuegrass, ect... it helps these transition faster at lower temps. I can still get two blanket sprays if needed, one now and one in June. Those two will keep my lawns looking good until I spray Simazine in Oct. I also like the fact that Celcius has some residual/pre properties to it. BTW, I like to use the medium rate with MSO.

 

I am going to have to disagree about not using Celcius now. I will say I do start a tad later than some of you [last week of Feb] but this is what I use for my first round. It might take a little longer to notice the weeds dying but they do dye and just not have the tops burned. It is safe for transitioning Bermuda and St Augustine [way easier on these than a 24d mix] and if they happen to have some Poa, Clump Fescue, Rye, Rescuegrass, ect... it helps these transition faster at lower temps. I can still get two blanket sprays if needed, one now and one in June. Those two will keep my lawns looking good until I spray Simazine in Oct. I also like the fact that Celcius has some residual/pre properties to it. BTW, I like to use the medium rate with MSO.

The label says you can add Octane if it's cooler, have you ever tried that? It is supposed to be comparable to speedzone when done like this.

 

I am so new to "the game" I am just just learning. Piggy backing off you guys and what your doing. This Celsius spot spray I performed 4 days ago. And it was for my own tests. To see how Long this would take to see results. I don't have the budget or clients to go out and buy octane, speed zone, revolver, and anything else that you might mix with it. I don't even know how to properly mix 2 different herbicides together. I am hopin to "intern" with a guy I met on here that actually lives in the next neighborhood over from me. He seems very knowledgable and has a nice set up.
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i agree w turf dog. i spot sprayed fescue In a bermuda lawn with celcius 3 weeks ago and its dead now. it just takes longer but it seemed to work fine for me

 

i agree w turf dog. i spot sprayed fescue In a bermuda lawn with celcius 3 weeks ago and its dead now. it just takes longer but it seemed to work fine for me

The part about how long it takes for activity in cool weather is the main issue, I think. It also looks like Bayer saw this and made a thinly veiled attempt to correct it. Look at the 3 active ingredients in Celsius:

Iodosulfuron: an ALS inhibitor (which are notoriously slow in cool weather). WHen you dig into the physiology, as soon as Iodosulfuron is taken up into a plant, it is metabolized into metsulfuron, water, and carbon dioxide. So, it's no different than applying Manor, except that it's more expensive.

Thiencarbazone: a PPO inhibitor that causes some contact membrane disruption. This one's no different than carfentrazone (Quicksilver), but a lot more expensive.

Dicamba: You'll see this carboxylic acid in most of your standard 3-way mixes, since it has reasonably quick activity on perennnial weeds and legumes (think dandelions and clovers) in cool weather.

To get the same spectrum of control, you could mix your own Manor and dicamba for a lot less money -- or you could add your own PPO inhibitor of choice to get the quick symptomology you're looking for.

 

I am going to have to disagree about not using Celcius now. I will say I do start a tad later than some of you [last week of Feb] but this is what I use for my first round. It might take a little longer to notice the weeds dying but they do dye and just not have the tops burned. It is safe for transitioning Bermuda and St Augustine [way easier on these than a 24d mix] and if they happen to have some Poa, Clump Fescue, Rye, Rescuegrass, ect... it helps these transition faster at lower temps. I can still get two blanket sprays if needed, one now and one in June. Those two will keep my lawns looking good until I spray Simazine in Oct. I also like the fact that Celcius has some residual/pre properties to it. BTW, I like to use the medium rate with MSO.

When you say your are doing blanket sprays what type of equipment at you using to apply these blankets apps?
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The label says you can add Octane if it's cooler, have you ever tried that? It is supposed to be comparable to speedzone when done like this.

I have not, but personally I am not all that opposed to a slower kill. When I can run one herbicide in the early Spring and kill more than just some easy broadleaves with something that seems easy on the transitioning Bermuda and especially St Augustine I do not mind waiting a couple of weeks.

 

When you say your are doing blanket sprays what type of equipment at you using to apply these blankets apps?
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Mainly my Permagreen and also my engine driven backpack with two AI nozzles. At the moment my Permagreen is down and also the backpack so unless I get the PG going it looks like I will be using my skid, but I am very tempted to order the Tee Jet Widejet gun [I think that is what it is called].

 

What happened to the engine drive backpack? That was the Maruyama clone, right? I have a boomless nozzle that I hardly use. The spray pattern is nothing like a set of fan nozzles on a boom in terms of consistency of spray deposit and drift control. I have used this set up for straight fertilizer and non crop herbicides in wide open fields. Not really something I would trust on a lawn that cannot be yellowed or marked up. Celsius is pretty forgiving on lawns, but I am always nervous about what is downwind of it. If iodosulfuron metabolizes to metsulfuron flowers, trees and shrubs are in danger. On big lawns, I feel much safer using the skid sprayer to power my 3 nozzle boom. If they are big enough to drive on, they are done with the 10 ft boom on the truck.

 

Ya'll talk too technical for us new applicators.:laugh: