Last year I said that more holes--not very deep was better. More holes for the seed to fall into.

However this year in a test, it appears--in the first two weeks at least--that the soil brought up by three-inch deep cores on one square foot--brought up enough soil to nearly create a topsoil seed bed. I used a 3/4 inch soil probe for a test.
Suppose for instance that each core weighed 2 ounces--and there were 8 cores per sqft. That is 16 ounces (one pound). And that equals 1000 pounds of top soil per thousand sqft. A major topdressing.

This would probably give the best seed germination if the cores were allowed to disperse and melt due to rain or irrigation--and after rain--the seed was applied, and then raked or dragged into the soil.

As I mentioned last year--it is very difficult to prove which method results in the most germination.

Suggestions welcome.

Do you know of any proof as to which overseeding method produces the most new grass?

Is this experiment only feasible when the comparison is done on bare soil?

 

Anyone willing to give it a shot?
Weigh the cores brought up on one sqft with your aeration set up.
Count the number of holes, and the approximate depth.
If you seed before aeration. Some seed might be cut in half, right? What percent? I don't know. I guess I should have paid attention in math class.
If you seed before aeration more of the soil will be on top of the seed. This should be helpful when irrigation occurs and the soil cores melt down--I think. I cannot prove this idea.

We still have the problem of which is better--deep holes or shallow holes, only twice as many.

Experienced guys--what is your opinion--or better--your experience?

 

I’m not experienced, but a landscaper who mostly does new lawn installs told me to do a really good fall aeration with 3” or better plugs, as they dry a bit, overseed, and then drag some fencing around to break them up. I was going to try that this fall

 

I'm not experienced, but a landscaper who mostly does new lawn installs told me to do a really good fall aeration with 3" or better plugs, as they dry a bit, overseed, and then drag some fencing around to break them up. I was going to try that this fall

This is a much better method than just coring and throwing seed. Use a chain link gate section as it is reinforced. I like to distribute boards for weight on the link section to give more abrasion as you drag.

 

No pics. Imagine a chain link gate tied to the sulky of the peramgreen. Drag it around...….

 

Does it do any damage to good grass if you are over seeding?

 

Not at all.

 

Just thought you should see this. I like photographs. Here is a soil core weighing about 1.8 ounces--almost 2 ounces. The soil probe is about an inch in diameter. It substitutes for an aerator core. Depth is about 4 inches. My soil is loose and sandy. Moist due to frequent rains in the last week.
My calculations show that if there were 8 holes per square foot--this would result in about 900 pounds of soil on top of 1000 sqft.
Not sure if this would be a good seed bed.
I suspect that if the seed were applied first--then--the cores would melt down, covering the seed during the next rain or irrigation event.

What is your result? Got photos? How many ounces per core? How many ounces per sqft? Cores per sqft? Pounds of soil per thousand sqft?

There is still the unanswered question: Wait after coreing to sow seed? Or--can seed be sown first thereby placing the soil on top of the seed--yet without the tines damaging the seed?
If some seeds are damaged--how much extra seed is necessary to compensate for such damage?

 

Great work as always Riggle. My plan is to aerate first then overseed all in one visit. My original question still remains though. Is a shorter plug better, say 2” instead of 4”?

Some great info on here, especially the idea of dragging fence to break up cores faster. It’s something that I will experiment with

 

I always preface, i'm no pro, but just thinking it thru, i'm not sure cores would break up very well unless they dry some first and if the soil is fairly dry to start, how well will it core?

I'd imagine dragging a weighted fence would be kind of a waste without a return trip later to seed and drag when its had time to dry.

So knowing that probably isn't the option I'd think more cores, less deep would be the way to go if the plan is to just aerate, overseed and move on.

Of course I may be wrong about my initial thoughts on the cores breaking up and my entire post is worthless so take it for what it's worth.

 

We all have different conditions when sowing seed. Seed with hard clay cores over the top might be quite different from a sandy soil situation. Quite different from a moist soil situation.
Seed after coreing is probably different from seed sown before coreing.
And all this is different from going over it with a slit seeder.

 

What is the procedure that they use on sports fields? Do the air rate and then follow that with dragging a mat or do they let the cores dry out first and then drag a mat out later? IDK...

 

We all have different conditions when sowing seed. Seed with hard clay cores over the top might be quite different from a sandy soil situation. Quite different from a moist soil situation.
Seed after coreing is probably different from seed sown before coreing.
And all this is different from going over it with a slit seeder.

always something to keep in mind when reading any response.

 

I just came across some information from Iowa State University Turf Program. The info suggests that for overseeding--the area should be verticut, the seed sown, and then verticut again.
Does this mean they are not worried about the verticut damaging the new seed? If so, is it possible to seed first--then verticut, two quick steps?

If verticut does not damage much seed--does this mean that seed could be sown before aeration--and still suffer no significant damage?

Also Dave Minner turf specialist, of Iowa State University, suggests for heavily used fields, that one should sow perennial rye and let the players, "cleat-in" the seed. That is, let the foot traffic push the seed into the soil. Does this mean you can "cleat-in" new seed with a roller that has cleats or spikes attached to the roller? By what percent is germination increased?

 

I had to google what verticut meant! This is the first time In my life I’ve ever heard of the word. Always learning on here!

 

Its all about the seed to soil contact so lots of material (cores) on the surface is good. Generally you will see the seed germinate in the core holes first as the holes retain the water and tend to stay wet.

 

Just working my way into aeration (I think I'm gonna start with a Maxim 48" pull behind). What are some concerns pulling 4" plugs? Irrigation lines is the first worry that came to mind.

 

Sprinklers are one thing. But you shouldn’t be hitting irrigation lines at 4” anyhow.
I usually pull about 2” plugs. Not to say deeper isn’t better or worse. My personal opinion is more holes are better. 2”, 3”, 4”......whatever depth just do more holes!
If you or your customer are aerating or aerating and overseeding, you’ll more than likely have a nicer lawn than the rest of the neighbors that don’t. If you plug a 2” hole into somewhat dry or firm ground, that’s 2” deeper the water and air is penetrating prior to having to percolate so your beneficial depth of a 2” hole is probably closer to 3+ inches. Just make lots of holes which is multiple passes.

 

Sprinklers are one thing. But you shouldn't be hitting irrigation lines at 4" anyhow.
I usually pull about 2" plugs. Not to say deeper isn't better or worse. My personal opinion is more holes are better. 2", 3", 4"......whatever depth just do more holes!
If you or your customer are aerating or aerating and overseeding, you'll more than likely have a nicer lawn than the rest of the neighbors that don't. If you plug a 2" hole into somewhat dry or firm ground, that's 2" deeper the water and air is penetrating prior to having to percolate so your beneficial depth of a 2" hole is probably closer to 3+ inches. Just make lots of holes which is multiple passes.

It blows my mind how many people pay me to overseed their lawn and then they don't water it at all! I stopped to check on a lawn I done 2 weeks ago and I'm pretty sure they haven't watered at all in 2 weeks, but there was tall shoots of grass growing in each plug but no where else!

 

Words can't do justice of how much I love my new Stinger quad aer 3000. I'm getting so much more done compared to using a hydraulic pull behind like we did in the past. The #1 big business thing I'm able to do is aerate, overseed and fertilize a lawn all in one stop. I have the stinger and my PG triumph and a skid of starter fert all on the same trailer. I have neighbors come out to see what I'm doing and they end up asking me to do their lawn! I have old customers that we've aerated in the past come out and say what an amazing job our new machine does. I've even had customers call once they get home after I've aerated and say how good lawn looks.
I just put 45 hours on it and changed all the oil. Had to email Dustin at Stinger a couple of time with questions about the hydraulic oil and filter, and he always emailed me right back, great customer support!
Here's pics of a lawn that had some kinda horrible wide bladded grass growing in it from a landscaper bringing in dirt and seeding in June. I wasn't exactly sure what it was so I sprayed it with Drive XLR8 and it killed it dead as a hammer. End of August I aerated, overseeded and started fertilized it. Stopped to check on it last week and took these pics. Looked amazing

Oh and where I live I have customer in sand, and hard as rock clay. I've not had any problems pulling plugs in clay, but if it's really dry it doesn't pull much of a plug. Then I'll adjust the pressure but then get in a soft spot and it pulls giant plugs lol. So I just adjust it back and forth for different areas of lawn

 

I keep hearing to guarantee your work people either quote in a hose/sprinkler timer and set it up or colustomer complains they make customer produce a water bill. Makes no sense to spend money on aeration and overseeding (materials and labor) and then not follow through