You have failed to post ANY model numbers for the equipment that you are asking about. In general, for a shop to replace a crankshaft (and any other necessary parts) could run as much as 1/2 to 3/4 the price of a new one.

 

Have you checked to make sure the deck isn't bent in?

If the crankshaft is bent, you had better just junk the mower and buy a new one. On an average 6 hp engine, just a crankshaft will probably cost you between $50 and $100. Having a shop install it could easily be $100 of labor. Thats $150 to $200 dollars, and it could be more, depending on the exact engine and mower.

Unless you have alot of time and some experience with tools, you don't want to try and fix it yourself.

 

pull the sparkplug----then turn the blade---if the arc is the same--and the blade stays in the same position--as he said--the deck is bent--and this is believeable--as thin as decks are getting now---

 

You have failed to post ANY model numbers for the equipment that you are asking about. In general, for a shop to replace a crankshaft (and any other necessary parts) could run as much as 1/2 to 3/4 the price of a new one.

Sorry I failed you.

The second part of your response is all I was looking for.

 

If the crankshaft is bent, you had better just junk the mower and buy a new one. On an average 6 hp engine, just a crankshaft will probably cost you between $50 and $100. Having a shop install it could easily be $100 of labor. Thats $150 to $200 dollars, and it could be more, depending on the exact engine and mower.

Unless you have alot of time and some experience with tools, you don't want to try and fix it yourself.

Yeah, it's definately not the deck. I did a little more searching and saw some of the same dollar figures you mentioned above for parts.
Thanks for the input.

Oh well, anyone wanna buy a mower?! LOL!

 

Gogetter - before you scrap it - try one last thing. Take the blade off (and the blade stabilizer/mount or other hardware) and take a 5lb sledge hammer to it. Try to straighten the shaft out the old fashioned way - with a little brute force.
I've had this work several times - it's a long shot, it's not reccomended, you can damage the bottom seal, the crank bearings and a lot of other stuff BUT every once in a while, it works. It's at least worth a try before you throw it away.
I had a customer with a similar problem a couple of years ago. When I told her that the mower was pretty much cooked - she was really bummed out. I told her that I'd try to give it a last shot with the hammer (if it didn't work - no charge). It worked. I charged her $20 and the mower is still running today. Like I said, it's a long shot - not professionally reccomended, but sometimes it works.

 

I charged her $20 and the mower is still running today. Like I said, it's a long shot - not professionally reccomended, but sometimes it works.

This is a VERY good way to set yourself up for liability if that cranshaft that you were beating on decides to shatter one day sending the blade and other parts from under the mower and seriously injures someone.

And to the first poster, a sticky at the top of the "mechanic and repair" forum states that model numbers and other information should be included in the post to receive a more helpful reply.

 

This is a VERY good way to set yourself up for liability if that cranshaft that you were beating on decides to shatter one day sending the blade and other parts from under the mower and seriously injures someone.

Ditto newz, I wouldn't suggest to anyone doing that. Even on your own mower would it be worth taking a chance of loosing a foot ?

 

pull the sparkplug----then turn the blade---if the arc is the same--and the blade stays in the same position--as he said--the deck is bent--and this is believeable--as thin as decks are getting now---

Yup, noticed some new 21" thin tin sitting outside Walmart. Probably 29 gauge, if that.