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Have I been using the wrong oil for my turf tracer with Kohler Command?

3.6K views 21 replies 16 participants last post by  Franky8081  
#1 ·
I have been running regular automotive 10/30 synthetic for my lawn mower engines. When I was talking with someone knowledgeable today, they stated that automotive oil does not hold up well in an air cooled lawn mower engine. Any thoughts on this? I also saw that someone was a big believer in using Rotella 10/30. I was also told you can buy a zinc additive. I am a little lost now. Have I been screwing this up for quite a while with straight automotive synthetic 10/30? Thanks.
 
#2 ·
We run NAPA 20-50 dino in all our Kaws and Kolhers, used to run Pepboys before that.....All API approved. You can use syn if it makes you feel better, but with out proper maintenance it won't make the engine last any longer.....
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#3 ·
Without going into too much detail, Yes.

IF you are going the 10w-30 route OR the 15w-40 route temp depending on mower Manual spec.

I use ROTELLA 10w-30 T4 and/or 15w-40 T4 and............. add 4 ounces of Lucas TB Zinc-Plus Engine Break-In Additive | Problem Solvers & Utility Lubricants | Lucas Oil Center to each GALLON of the Rotella T4.

ALWAYS Shake the bottles before blending, AND again before adding the final mix to your engines.

Flat Tappet Lifters as well as Roller Lifters with needle bearings will benefit greatly!

The ZDDP is anti wear. The Calcium in the Rotella T4 is anti acid.

Maintain change intervals regardless of the extra protection with this mix!

Keep Intake screens and air cooling passages CLEAN.

At least a 1 minute engine "idle cool down" during hot weather use, or hard mowing.

Been doing this for Decades.

The ZDDP oil Diesel blends are Frowned Upon heavily for usage in autos with Catalytic Converters, as it damages the Catalyst....so MANY auto oils have levels of ZDDP that is considered LOW for FLAT TAPPET Lifter engines.


NOT for engines with an INTERNAL WET Clutch. Too slick!
 
#6 ·
Agreed.

i always buy the oil the manual recommends for my engine and environment temperature.

so i run Kawasaki k tech 20w40 in my kawis, and briggs 10w30 in my timemaster with a briggs engine.

When i had the redhawk with a kohler, i ran kohler oil, i forgot the weight though.
 
#10 ·
I hope my experience is abnormal but I was running automotive 10/30 in my Honda 21 and while I don’t use a 21 except for very specific needs it didn’t last a year on auto oil. In the fall I use a push much more often and I believe the rings wore thin and failed all at once. Really hope you caught this in time, or I hope my situation wasn’t the norm.
 
#14 ·
Hmmm, so no great consensus. I always use synthetic, but is is regular automotive.
No surprise there...... ;)

So go buy some lawn mower oil......:cool:
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#12 ·
I think the Rotella guys are running T4. T6 I think is avaialable in either 5w-40 or 15w-40. I wouldn't run T6 in air cooled mowers without a little more info. T6 is designed for modern diesels with sensitive EGR and DEF sytems and may have less zinc. I run oil designed for air cooled engines in my mowers and ATV's, a lot higher oil temps in theses motors.
 
#20 ·
I find it ill-informed....... :unsure:
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#17 ·
Have used engine oil for 40 years, never wore out an engine due to using car oil as opposed to lawn mower oil.......
 
#22 ·
Stumbling in on this conversation.
I run a commercial lawn service in Georgia and I go thru alot of oil. Hot southern days and 75-100 hr oils change intervals. I have multiple mowers with Kawasaki 38.5 and Kawasaki 26 Vanguard 37 efi on them.
With the amount of services i perform i was thinking of going with Rotella t5 semi synthetic. The Kawasaki 20w50 is about $95 for a case of 12. I can get the rotella t5 in gallons for $19. So about $60 for 12 qts. Versus the $95 for Kawi oil. The benefit of keeping things a little more simple and buying cheaper by the gallon would be a benfit because im already running this in the trucks. Whats yalls thoughts on going that route. Are there any other commercial guys on here that run rotella in the mowers.