Skip 1 and 2 if your going to seed it next week.

 

Thanks,

I guess ill have to push back the seeding then, i had brown patch, i thought cured it, but now it is back,

so i think that i have to get it under control again?

so if i just leave out the seeding, can i do all the other stuff in one day

forgot to add the fert is granular not liquid, everything else is liquid

Thank you

 

I would spray the fungicide at a curative rate and spray for weeds. Do not apply the fertilizer (assuming you have tall fescue). Read the label on both the q4 and the fungicide you use and see how long you need to wait before seeding. Probably a few weeks. Plus it's still too hot to seed imo. When you seed apply a starter fertilizer.

Just so you know applying a regular fertilizer to tall fescue when it's hot out like this will flash brown patch disease and isn't good practice to do. The only fertilizer I would apply would be an organic fertilizer like milorganite, or anything with a very low analysis. That will work with the soil life and feed the plant when it needs it.

 

I would spray the fungicide at a curative rate and spray for weeds. Do not apply the fertilizer (assuming you have tall fescue). Read the label on both the q4 and the fungicide you use and see how long you need to wait before seeding. Probably a few weeks. Plus it's still too hot to seed imo. When you seed apply a starter fertilizer.

Just so you know applying a regular fertilizer to tall fescue when it's hot out like this will flash brown patch disease and isn't good practice to do. The only fertilizer I would apply would be an organic fertilizer like milorganite, or anything with a very low analysis. That will work with the soil life and feed the plant when it needs it.

Thank you, i can spray both in the same day right?

also i should wait 1 week to put down fert or just wait till fall? (its a watered lawn)

 

Yes. I would spray the fungicide first then spray the weed control. Wait until fall and then apply the starter fertilizer when you aerate and seed.

This is all assuming you have tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass (cool season turf type).

 

The Q4 label says to wait 28 days after emergence to apply on new grass.
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/q4-plus-turf-herbicide-p-1930.html.

Really there is no limit on the fungicide and fertilizer, relative to seed.
But I would skip the fungicide (costly) unless you have a professional diagnosis and professional equipment to apply it. An experienced owner-operated lawn care company is the best bet. Fungal diseases are not common in the cool weather of fall. Naturally don't go cheap on the seed. You want premium quality disease-resistant modern grass seed varieties, (which are suited to your climate, irrigation and level of care.)

Cut short and rake or power-rake thoroughly.
Use plenty of seed; double the usual rate is good because the rate of germination in an overseed situation is often low. Start now because warm soil temperature results in rapid germination. Start 8 weeks before frost. Not much growth happens after the first frost in your area. You probably only have about 6 weeks, in reality. If it emerges September 10 and you wait one month to apply Q4, like October 10--then crabgrass portion of Q4 would be wasted.

Get a professional opinion on the brown patch. What species of grass do you have? Make sure it is not red thread, and not gray leaf spot. Make sure any new seed is resistant to that particular disease. Brown patch is a hot weather disease--avoid fertilizer in hot weather--apply fertilizer in spring and fall.

Whatever caused the deterioration in the first place--correct that.

 

New Jersey frost dates.
https://www.victoryseeds.com/frost/nj.html

 

Thanks,
Yea i was told that the hot temp and humidity made brown patch rapid in this area (and landscapers keep spreading it on the mowers)

I had it earlier, but then left for a while, and now i have it again
the man at the fert store, said it was a big problem here this year,

he said that i should only have to apply it once more because it should cool off soon,

i assume if i dont treat it, the winter will not kill it will it?

 

The guy at the fert store is correct. I'd apply it once and then it'll start to cool off.

As far as the winter "killing it" Id like to add that it takes three things for disease to show. The pathogen which is usually always there, the host which is the turf grass which is always there and the environment which is usually (warm/hot out, humid, moist) and there's some other environmental factors but them are the main ones. So here's my take on it. You can't always control the environment but you can control which turf grass is there and you can improve the health of the turf. I'm into the organic based side of lawn care and feel that by applying organic ferts and improving soil structure and applying bio nutrients like a compost tea you can really strengthen the plant and if you plant a more disease resistant variety/varieties then you'll have a better chance of seeing less disease issues.

Also if you do all you can like cut the correct height for the turf type (in nc we cut tall fescue 4 inches) and water deeply and infrequently for ex. Your lawn needs one inch of water a week to survive so water once a week (twice if you have to break zones up) and for 45 mins (place cups in each zone and adjust time accordingly - remember you need and inch and maybe an inch and a half during drought / heat / stressed season).

That will give your the lawn the best chance.

 

Sorry. Fungi have learned to survive, spraying fungicide only knocks it out temporarily. Winter does not kill it. Whether you treat it or not--it will be back if conditions are the same next summer, (hot and rainy with night low temperatures over 70)--according to the link below. Grass varieties resistant to brown patch are the best cure. The fertilizer store guy, may or may not be correct--but he has not seen the lawn. You need a professional to take a look and identify the problem. I am sure there are several good companies in your area. If you do not plan on hiring him--just pay him a few dollars for his time and expertise.
Brown patch info:
http://plant-pest-advisory.rutgers.edu/red-white-and-brown/

I would not worry about fungus any more this year--night temperatures have cooled off for fall; problem solved, for now.

 

To the OP, has the fungus come back this season? What have you've done if it has?

Here in the DMV it started back in mid spring. We were getting lots of rain storms with humid hot daytime and night temps, just the right conditions for brown patch. I went out of town one Saturday morning and came back Sunday afternoon and there were brown patches that were not there before - I know my lawn. I started a disease program to control it (curative rate) and now a at the preventative rate at about 21 days and so far so good. I've been spraying Myclobutinal and may need to get a different product (Azoxy 2SC Select) on the next app. These fungicides are cheap, initially, but when you compare the active ingredients to the box store stuff, it's waaaay cheaper. Additionally, I've started incorporating the N-Ext products into my lawncare program along with using Milorganite to see how that the N-Ext products can help get my dirt right.

My newly renovated lawn is not even a year old yet, but fortunately weeds have been under control so far - the lawn has been choking out the weeds. There are a few weeds here and there.