Only catastrophic failure will cause acute white/blue smoke. I recommend you check your oil level and signs for fuel contamination in the oil.

 

Yeah, I already did and there was fuel in the oil, I drained it and install new motor oil earlier before I even tried to start it ( I had suspicion of that happening, because the old carburetor failed and found fuel in the combustion chamber every time I would pull out the spark plug to check it...) Thanks fastline!

 

Because this is so common, I always recommend either a manual fuel valve and use it religiously, or install a vacuum operated fuel valve.

Even if you changed the oil, if you got heavy black smoke, you were WAY over fueling and probably need yet another change. But I have certainly seen engine damage as a result of this.

Carbs rarely "go bad" as some believe. Usually at issue is fuel contaminants that lodge in the needle/seat and the bowl overflows into the engine. A good inline filter is always recommended.

 

Oh yes, I forgot to mention it; the white smoke ( and definitely not bluish) is practically vanished after a few starts, there is just a hint of it, I'm going to watch it for a while, just in case.

 

Believe me, it was definitely a carburetor problem and something went bad because the needle and seat looked fine; when holding the needle lightly
against the seat compressed air would not go past the valve and needle, the float also checked fine, so I decided to install e new carburetor, problem gone!

 

I don't know what your prev issues were but after working on thousands of engines, I find gravity feed systems an issue and a needle/seat used as the only line of defense will always become an issue. A needle/seat can really only be inspected under a microscope. Needles that have a metal tip suck! Rubber works so much better but in all cases, if an engine gravity fed, without a pump, they at least need a vac valve as a secondary protection! It would save some many engines!

Many carbs I touch have overflow drains so they can't fill the engine, but of course that is a safety and EPA issue so I have literally seen OEM routing where a drain just connects to the upper part of the carb or airbox, defeating it's purpose.

I watched as an idiot could not start a machine. She was locked. Hydro locked by fuel is what he didn't know. He pulled the plug, laid it on the side and gave her a rip. A rooster of fuel shot about 10ft in the air, the plug fired, and she burned to the ground right there.

Again, I hate gravity systems and I treat them all like they leak.

 

I agree, gravity fuel fed carburetors are kind of odd. I'm going to be looking for a location to place my new metal tank; the original plastic one cracked and it wasn't repairable. It's probably going to end up below the carburetor level, in which case I'll be needing a small electric pump.

 

I recommend a mechanical diaphragm pump, not electric. Delivery needs to be less than 1psi. They are simple to install and reliable.

 

You're right, I was thinking of the same thing; the electric pump does deliver fuel at a minimum of no less than 3-5 psi which, I would run the risk of unseating the needle, although I do have a pressure control valve, but I don't remember what the lowest setting is. I think I'll go the way you suggested and use a diaphragm pump; my other Honda engine (GX610) has one, it's compact and tucks in out of the way real well! Thanks again