very simple principal. there is a cog in the middle that jams on the teeth. the cog can be flipped to go the other direction. ie. loosen/tighten. the hooked pieces on the end have screws that tighten to shorten the length of the whole thing which pulls the slack and makes your chains tight. not sure if that made any sense at all. kind of hard to descibe without holding one to show.
good luck

 

They work petty well but not as fast as a lever binder unless you can't find the sweet spot on the chain and they a ratchet binder is faster and a ratchet binder can't take out your teeth:laugh: :laugh: . To use a ratchet binder you unscrew the binder to get more bit and hook on the chain like a lever binder and hold the barrel of the binder and start ratcheting the binder until tight.

minimax

 

But do they come loose like the lever binder? I have had some problems with my lever binders coming loose even when I wrap the chain around it, I am going up hills and hit some serious bumps.

I think the ratchet style might be a little better in terms of not coming loose.

 

its the only binder type ive used...they've been great, never loosen.... but i spent more than the $29, maybe its a different brand, they look the same

 

Harbor freight sell 5/16-3/8 ratchet binders for $17.00 each and they are warrantied for life. They have 3/8-1/2 one too.

minimax

 

I use spring-loaded binders like these.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_6970_18224_18224

They stay tight, especially if you use a cheater bar. Just make sure you don't get sloppy when binding down with the bar, because you can lose those teeth!

 

The only thing with rachet binders is keep them out of the dirt and mud they don't like it keep them lubed up so the operate properly. I never use rachet binders only the chin smasher face rearranger lever binders.

Make sure you binders are rated for the chain you are using its best to be a little overkill than being too light.

Here have a look at this page

www.awdirect.com/catalog.cfm?dest=dir&linkid=400&linkon=subsection

 

We use ratchet binders for our small equipment, but always used 5/8 lever style binders when transporting the 312. The lever style shouldn't come lose, key is to keep a 24" cheater pipe on the trailer and get them down damn tight, wrap the chain and go. For our smaller equipment, doesn't take too long to use the ratchets as we only need 2 chains on the skid steer and mini ex. The ratchets do tend to loosen a little if you're going a good distance.

 

Scag,

I use a huge lead pipe to put the lever style on and I do wrap the chain, but I did notice that there are little holes on the lever, I was thinking about still wrapping the lever with the chain and using something to tie it through the lever.

 

Levers I would use a bungie or rope and tie it down tight so it could not open and release.

Ratchet is nice too. I prefer ratchet actually. Depends on how you're hooking things up though because you may not always have the space to use a "cheater bar" to get the lever really tight whereas the ratchet requires minimal space.

All else, look into some good straps.

 

All chain binders loosen up as loads shift on a trailer. A good operator will tie the load down, run a few miles and check it. Just don't check it while waiting to get on the state scales, they get the idea that something is wrong,and they are apt to give you a procto-logical exam!

 

I always use the racket binders. It took me a month to get it down. I am still slow as heck compared to the guys who've used them for 40 years and move equipment every day.

It just sucks when there isn't wnough room to move the racket far back.

 

I bought a set 2 yrs ago and have never used them. I tried and gave up. Maybe I will give it a try again. How do you undo the load. Sorry for the lame questions.

 

you need to tie the lever binders closed with a piece of wire, this will help prevent them from coming loose.

also with the ratchet binders loosen them almost all the way out when unhooking, this wil speed things up when you reattach them.

also WD-40..

 

I busted my chops with lever type and had to use ratchet binder because I pulled something in my shoulder using lever type. I now use both. Ratchet binders work better on track units.

 

A friend of mine that does trucking always carrys a long handled cheater type bar with special ends on it for the level binders.

Has a pointed in on one end and a cut square end where the level binder with the ball at the end fits in to it,so it doesn't slip off.

You can sure secure things down and it is fast,if you have room too get in where you can get levelage.

 

I did a job yesterday and took everyones advice in using bunge cords and it worked pretty well. I have always used a cheater bar which helps out a lot. thanks for the advice.

 

We use both on all of our trailers....BUT the guys that move 3 ton to 50 ton all day long use the "Rachets" almost exclusively ....Once you get the "Idea' on using "rachets"......life is much easier......


Snoope back quiet

 

I like the ratchet binders...the trick is position the "switch" halfway so its not engaging the teeth and twist the binder tight with your hands, then flip the switch and use the lever to get those final few inches...they stay tight and don't spring open like the lever binder when you loosen them, plus you don't have to carry around a big pipe...just wear gloves because after a few times being hit with grease they get pretty dirty

 

I don't like these. I have seen them get loose unless you secure the handle. The "screws" turn in opposite directions so you can loosen/tighten both ends at the same time. If you secure your handle, you would probably be all right.
I like the regular load binders but I use one with a large spring in it to help keep tension.

 

you can get stuff to tight with the rachet binders, the levers are limited to how far you can pull somthing, with the rachet binders if you have somthing with a suspention you can pull it way down as where if you have the lever binders all you can do is go down one time, the rachet binders stay tighter because you can tighten so much more and when you get it down just roll it over till it hits the trailer or machine in the proper direstion and if does move it will tighten it further

 

I've never had any trouble with regular lever load binders, and I don't even use a cheater bar. Maybe I'm just unusually strong

I recall a warning molded into our lever binders saying specifically not to use a cheater bar

 

If you use a cheater you have to use some common sense. If you get chains too tight, they can snap if they're under extreme pressure. The worry is that you can get the chains too tight, a load might shift slightly, and the whole chain could go.

 

You need to use a cheater bar to tighten cinches if you try do it just using your hands it will not be tight enough. When undoing cinches make sure you have a good grip on that pipe it will go flying through the air or get you in the face. I have had pipes whack me in the arms and chest it hurts like hell.

Anytime working with chains and cinches make sure your fingers are not going to get pinched and your out of the line of flying debris.

 

Yeah, good point. The cheater bar is a double edged sword. You need it to get the binder tight enough, but on the other hand, you can get the chain too tight. It's all common sense though, I think most of us have at least a little of that.