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Kohler OHC 16HP Oil Pressure Switch

20K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  Brad Ent  
#1 ·
Is the oil pressure switch normally open or normally closed?? (when engine is shut down)
Engine was running great and will not start now.
No spark??
Coils are good..
We cannot locate the model number or series for this unit (tag is faded)
The engine is mounted on a Giant Vac debris loader 1999 vintage.
Anyone with a wiring diagram??
 
#2 ·
They may have offered either switch depending on how the OEM wanted to wire it.

Most Kohlers though use Relay to bypass the oil pressure switch during starting. This is so you dont have to crank alot to get the pressure up to satisfy the switch.

Go to www.kohlerplus.com

Click enter as guest. Then you can download a service manual for your Triad. The wiring diagrams in there may help and may not depending on how the OEM did things.
 
#4 ·
Yah I am really not too familiar with that engine. Just going by the other engines. Think I have seen 2 of those Triads. Take good care of it cause nothing fits in its spot very easily if memory serves.

One of the 2 I have seen was a blown one on a Leaf Loader and finding a replacement engine to fit proved troublesome and ended in replacing the machine instead of the engine.
 
#6 ·
Before you give up...try what worked for mine. Its a 20hp kohler but maybe it will work for your 16. Mine ran great, over the winter something was chewing on the wires that come from the ignition. I spent a half a day trying everything I could think of,nothing worked. A friend cut the wire that goes into the shroud on the back over the flywheel, he cut it up a couple inches so we could splice back it together if it didn't work. It started right up. Downside is the key will start it and run but to shut it off you must stall it out,key won't shut it off. I can't get under that shroud without pulling the motor so it is still that way 2 years later.
Good luck.
 
#10 ·
From under the shroud there should be a white wire that comes from the 2 ignition modules. You can trace it back and see if there is a connector inline where you could disable it by unplugging the connector and checking for spark.If you have spark then you can begin to test the other components such as oil sensor and light. If no spark then remove blower housing /shields and check ignition modules etc.Be sure to check both sides for spark since there are 2 ignition modules. Sometimes I have seen rust build-up on flywheel magnets cause ignition not to fire. Just my half-fast opinion....
 
#12 ·
The ignition modules are within spec? What spec? I don't know of any spec on Kohler ignition modules other than for Smart Spark systems.
If you've unplugged the white wire from modules and still have no spark then as odd as it seems you have two bad modules or a bad flywheel. I've been dealing with air cooled engines for over 30 years and don't think I've ever seen a bad flywheel on the ignition side. Now if you do indeed find that you have two bad ignition modules DO NOT hook the white wire up to the new modules until you check the white wire for voltage. It should have none. Check it with the key turned on and also in the cranking position. If you have voltage there then that is what damaged the modules to begin with. I would then want to look at the keyswitch and wiring.
 
#13 ·
Veg....
I printed out a page from Kohler's service manual that shows specs and testing proceedure for ignition modules.

You're right about the keyswitch wiring, we found shorted wires in the harness that runs down through the block on the #2 bank.

We are back in business!

Thanks for the assistance!!