Standard right hand thread. An impact works fine for removal. When installing the new clutch, apply Never Seize and torque wrench it to the recommended torque.

 

How many hours on it? just wondering. Dont mean to get off topic

 

Around 1000 hours. Don't remember exactly off the top of my head.

Std right hand threads meaning lefty loosely correct?
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Around 1000 hours. Don't remember exactly off the top of my head.

Std right hand threads meaning lefty loosely correct?
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Correct i.e counter-clockwise to remove. I just replaced one on my Toro Wheelhorse after 858 hours. The impact is indeed the way to go. Mine was a long 5/8" bolt. The trick was locking the crankshaft so I could get the proper torque on the bolt.

 

How did you lock the crankshaft to torque the bolt? Are the bearings replaceable or so I need a whole new clutch? Where did you buy yours?
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Mowpart.com is a sponsor here, I've used them for clutches. Ive heard 1000 hrs is a typical lifespan. Agree on strd thread and using impact
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Heres a trick if you dont have an air gun to remove the engine mount bolt . remove one spark plug and insert recoil starter rope size # 5 or 6 . when cylinder in down insert about 3 feet or more . hand crank nut end till tight .remove clutch re install new clutch remove rope.. also remove both spark plug wires..

 

I used my impact and it came right off. Was pretty simple. Now I need a new clutch.
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I used my impact and it came right off. Was pretty simple. Now I need a new clutch.
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I watched my dealer replace my clutch about 2 weeks ago. Used a battery powered dewalt impact gun. Came right off.

I am jealous,you guys got double the hours that I got out of it. Dealer charged me $317.00 for clutch and $70.00 labor. Next time,Iwill do it myself though.

Check out EBAY for a clutch.The sellers name I saw was ppowersales. The clutch for my Lazer goes for $199.99 new with replaceable bearings and free shipping.

Note,that when you replace your clutch,be sure to seat it or it may wear out pre-maturely.

 

Ok, so when I took everything apart this is what I found, I take it my clutch is truly shot and this is not a bearing issue any longer? Do these plates just break apart over time?

Part number searches are driving me nuts! It seems the Exmark part number is 631732 and the Warner part number is 5218-65. No one carriers the Warner part, it seems almost everyone is selling Stens part 255-552. Is Stens a good quality part? Any other suggestions? Here are some pics for your viewing pleasure.

Note,that when you replace your clutch,be sure to seat it or it may wear out pre-maturely.

When you say seat it, what do you mean exactly? Proper torque?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exmark-Clutch-103-1364-1-631732-Warner-5218-65-5218-213-FREE-Bearing-Upgrade-/251283018363?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a81a2927b

Here is the one I found on eBay under PPowerSales. Anyone have any experience with them?

 

"When you say seat it, what do you mean exactly? Proper torque?"

No,the dealer did this with me on the machine. After you have the clutch and belt on,start it up. Apply half throttle.Engage the PTO for about 5 seconds and then,disengage the PTO. He did this about 7 times and said I was good to go.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exmark-Clutch-103-1364-1-631732-Warner-5218-65-5218-213-FREE-Bearing-Upgrade-/251283018363?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a81a2927b

Here is the one I found on eBay under PPowerSales. Anyone have any experience with them?

Thats very similar to the one I found for my model,but part numbers differ. I guess the clutches vary for model years. My Triton Lazer is a 2007,what year is yours out of curiosity?

 

OK, thanks, good to know.

 

Thats very similar to the one I found for my model,but part numbers differ. I guess the clutches vary for model years. My Triton Lazer is a 2007,what year is yours out of curiosity?

I do not know my model year, I bout the machine used, but I believe it is around 2000. The model numbers are all over the place but the clutches appear the same. That site has one for $189, that also matches my Warner part number but not my Exmark part number, so go figure that one out. Did you buy yours from this seller? Good buying experiences? Any issues with the clutch? How long have you had yours?

 

I do not know my model year, I bout the machine used, but I believe it is around 2000. The model numbers are all over the place but the clutches appear the same. That site has one for $189, that also matches my Warner part number but not my Exmark part number, so go figure that one out. Did you buy yours from this seller? Good buying experiences? Any issues with the clutch? How long have you had yours?

No,I did not buy mine from that seller. My dealer had the clutch and did everything as I was in a pinch to get mower back to work fast. After seeing how easy it is to replace,Iwill do it myself next time. Wish I could help you out on where to buy one,but,I have not bought one yet. I will down the road just to have it in stock though.

If I remember correctly from the EBAY page,you can contact the seller and give him the model and serial# of your machine to make sure you are getting the right clutch.

Hopefully,someone with more clutch experience will chime in to help you out more. Keep us posted on how you make out.

 

How did you lock the crankshaft to torque the bolt? Are the bearings replaceable or so I need a whole new clutch? Where did you buy yours?
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It looks like you're on your way to fixing the problem. To answer your questions, I popped the main shroud off and locked the ring gear. My bearings were replaceable but like yours, the actual clutch was toast. I bought mine at Tulsa Engine Warehouse.

There is a burnishing procedure in the mower's service manual. It says to run the engine at half throttle and engage the clutch for 10 seconds then disengage for 10 seconds and continue until you've done it 5 times. It then says to run the engine at full throttle and do the same procedure. I had to set the air gap before and after the burnishing procedure. I don't think modern clutches have adjustable air gaps anymore.

 

Thanks for the tip. You mention my clutch is toast, how do I know, what am I looking for?
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Thanks for the tip. You mention my clutch is toast, how do I know, what am I looking for?
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To be clear, MY clutch was toast and I was going by your assessment that your clutch appeared to be "shot." In my case, the field section of my clutch is what failed. The donut that contained all of the windings somehow slipped out of the housing and was in contact with one of the friction surfaces. The insulation was literally worn off the coil and bare wire was showing! The ohm meter showed an open circuit.

My friction surfaces look about like yours in the picture. The clutch always clamped up fine without slipping right up to the end so I don't know if the actual friction surfaces are worn out or not. My clutch would not engage at all and had very rough bearings but they are replaceable. To buy a new field assembly and bearings would have cost around $500. It was a no-brainer to just replace the entire clutch.

 

The number search is doing exactly what it's suppose to do. Make it so you don't really know what you're getting. All clutches, although they will mount are not the same. Rotation and torque rating vary. Put a lower rated clutch on a larger deck, don't expect 1000 hrs out of it. You find one that's extremely low priced, rest assured you're getting a fake. Stickers are easy to make. Ask yourself this. Why is that clutch so cheap? The oem clutches are at least as good as the one you removed. You get a 1 yr warranty, with most likely, no questions. What more do you want?????? But that's up to you.

 

The number search is doing exactly what it's suppose to do. Make it so you don't really know what you're getting. All clutches, although they will mount are not the same. Rotation and torque rating vary. Put a lower rated clutch on a larger deck, don't expect 1000 hrs out of it. You find one that's extremely low priced, rest assured you're getting a fake. Stickers are easy to make. Ask yourself this. Why is that clutch so cheap? The oem clutches are at least as good as the one you removed. You get a 1 yr warranty, with most likely, no questions. What more do you want?????? But that's up to you.

Hmmm,I have to ask the dealer who replaced my clutch about a warranty.I didn't even think about that.

I know depends on various factors,but,what kind of hours are some of you guys getting out of clutches? I got 485 before a bearing seized. Just seems low to me.

 

The number search is doing exactly what it's suppose to do. Make it so you don't really know what you're getting. All clutches, although they will mount are not the same. Rotation and torque rating vary. Put a lower rated clutch on a larger deck, don't expect 1000 hrs out of it. You find one that's extremely low priced, rest assured you're getting a fake. Stickers are easy to make. Ask yourself this. Why is that clutch so cheap? The oem clutches are at least as good as the one you removed. You get a 1 yr warranty, with most likely, no questions. What more do you want?????? But that's up to you.

What would you recommend? It seems all online retailers are selling Stens clutches. I have yet to find an OEM Exmark or Warner clutch. Even if I did, I would rather not spend $400+ if a $200-$250 clutch will do the same thing. I stopped at my local torrow dealer today at lunch and even they only order Stens brand clutches unless you specifically want to spend more for an OEM. They quoted me around $360 for the Stens clutch for my mower.

I also would like to learn how to tell if my clutch is bad. It worked great engaging and disengaging without issue before the bearing seized. If I can replace just the bearing and get a few hundred home hours out of it that would be a cost effective option. If that will cost half the price of a new clutch and the whole clutch will fail soon after, then it's not worth the hassle. This is for homeowner use, not commercial, however I do not want to keep messing around with it either.

 

Any clutch will do the job. But for how long. Those aftermarket parts suppliers don't discount the part because they're nice guys. They are making their margin for sure. That's why they're in business. Cheap parts are cheap. Some dealers price gouge, no doubt. But OEM is at least as good as the old one. This question will rage till the end of time "OEM vs Aftermarket". Nobody can tell how long it will last. That's the problem. :laugh: Repairing old clutch is not wise. Brg's in Warner clutches are staked in.

 

But where do I find oem at a decent price? Is Stens a quality alternative?
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It would most likely be OK for a homeowner application.