Did you check all of your fuses? Did you check all of your safties? Did you check all of the electrical connectors? Did you check all of your ground connections? Did you check the fuel pump relay? If they check good go here with your model/serial number and download the owners and parts manual. It will contain the electrical schematic. Get a test light or DVOM and start checking the fuel pump circuit and move on from there.
https://www.toro.com/en/parts
Here is the service manual for your engine. There are two different EFI systems so you may need to determine which system you have.
http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/24_690_02_EN.pdf

 

Yup, checked all of that. And here's the real kicker - go outside this morning try starting it up, and it jumps to life like there was never an issue! I give up...

 

Does the MIL light when you turn the key ON ? If it doesn’t, it’s usually a problem in the unit interlock.
This, of course is when the problem shows. The pump won’t activate.
I would hope you know how the system works. Starting requirement wise.
The hour meter is a basic troubleshooting tool.
You said you replaced the pump. Which one ?
Is your grandstand a newer style?

 

Does the MIL light when you turn the key ON ? If it doesn't, it's usually a problem in the unit interlock.
This, of course is when the problem shows. The pump won't activate.
I would hope you know how the system works. Starting requirement wise.
The hour meter is a basic troubleshooting tool.
You said you replaced the pump. Which one ?
Is your grandstand a newer style?

-No, the MIL does not come on when you turn the key (like normal).
- I replaced the fuel pump.
- It's a 2013.

 

2013 Toro 74583
Serial #313001182
Kohler Command EFI ECV740-3013
Serial# 3143501211

 

Here is the service manual for your mower so you can see what Ricky86 posted about. The electrical section starts on 8-1. If my upload doesnt work, you can go here and download it.
https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=41970

 

“The pre 2015 ones, with the cables for the drive, were an enormous problem.”

UGH...lovely. Guess I should have done more research before I bought one used! Starting to wish I had never gotten rid of my JD 777.

 

Well

"The pre 2015 ones, with the cables for the drive, were an enormous problem."

UGH...lovely. Guess I should have done more research before I bought one used! Starting to wish I had never gotten rid of my JD 777.

The original ones were atrocious.
The new ones are a dream, but there are thousand of old one out there with pretty much unsolvable problems.
Look under the pad in the back of the unit. You will see what I'm talking about.
If need be, buy the cables. If they're dragging they will fail sooner of later.
I've turned the bolts around so the heads are to the switch. You must be absolutely positive that the unit wont creep after. Never never ever trust a hydro to stay in place. LOL.
Maybe before you do anything, READ the owners manual to understand the operation of the interlock.
It may not even be your problem.

 

dupe post

 

I’m giving up for the moment. Can’t find the problem. Nothing I’m trying is working and I’m no mechanic or electrician. I’ll take another look when I get home.

 

All of the safety switches are eaisly by passed to check a interminate problem.

 

Well, I guess I am just not savvy enough with electric wiring to figure this out. Used a multimeter and I have over 12V all over the place.
- New relay (one on top of fuse block).
- New fuses.
- Cleaned relay, PTO, ignition switch connections.
- Checked proper engagement of neutral switch.

After all the work/hours I just put into this thing 2 weeks ago to replace head and valve gaskets I am beyond frustrated. The machine has been running perfectly for the last 2 weeks. Was running great all day (16 lawns) without a single problem. This is turning into the most unreliable machine I have owned.

I have the Service manuals for both the mower and the engine. No idea where to go from here.

 

OP, take a step back. You will get this. While you were checking and “found more than 12v all over the place,” did you have 12v at the trigger wire for the starter solenoid with the key in the start position?

 

Funny you should mention the solenoid. I’ll be darned if I can find one. Especially not where the service manual says it should be.

 

Funny you should mention the solenoid. I'll be darned if I can find one. Especially not where the service manual says it should be.

The starter solenoid should be mounted directly to the starter. Go to page 105 here and look at the diagram, specifically the letter "O"
http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/24_690_02_EN.pdf

 

Ah...thanks for pointing that out. Every mower I’ve ever owned had the solenoid mounted separately. I was looking at the Toro manual for it, not thinking to check the Kohler.

 

Eh.... why are you worried about a starter sol?.... Did you not say that it cranks but won’t catch, what I take as not start to run or do you mean the starter spins but doesn’t engage flywheel?
Or am I misunderstanding your use of the english language
What exactly is you problem?

 

Unit will turn over no problem. Will not start. I have power. But when I turn the key to “on”, the MIL light does not dot come on and there is no whine from the fuel pump like there normally is. It will crank all day long. I checked all the fuel lines and nothing is blocked.

 

OP, I am glad that Ricky86 asked for clarification. I misunderstood what you wrote. Sorry for derailing the thread.

 

Do the blocks on the hour meter come on?
Checking fuel lines? Why?
If the pump doesn’t activate, no fuel will flow.

 

Do the blocks on the hour meter come on?
Checking fuel lines? Why?
If the pump doesn't activate, no fuel will flow.

Blocks on hour meter do come on.

 

Check for spark using a good tester. Most ign systems will show spark on cheap tester.
The output is much higher than the points system cheap tester were designed for.
Check for codes at the MIL.
Then turn the key on, not to the start position, to the run and wiggle the entire harness while watching the MIL. If it lights momentarily, look real hard at the harness in that area. If the blocks are all light on the hr meter you can be somewhat sure the interlock switches are in the correct mode.

 

I am trying to understand how the interlock on this machine works and what correlation it has to the MIL. Is it designed to allow engine rotation but no fuel? Most interlocks I have seen prevent engine rotation when attempting to start. Can any member confirm?
Looking at the wiring diagram in the attached file on page 64, when the ign sw is turned to the on position, contacts B+A/X+Y connect. Voltage then flows through a 15a fuse through the MIL to the ECU. To me, and I am no expert, it seems that the MIL should light when the key is in the on position as Ricky86 posted but have nothing to do with the interlock at that point as the engine is not being commanded to start.
OP, did you check both sides of the 15a fuse for the ECU with a meter or test light? Did you check the ground for your ECU? Did you check the MIL bulb to see if it is good?
If the above checks out, follow the instruction on page 57 of the Kohler manual linked below and probe the Black connector at the ECU, terminal15 and then terminal 18 and check for +12v and check terminal 3 for ground on the Grey connector at the ECU.
http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/24_690_02_EN.pdf

 

When the key is turned to run, not start, the mil light should light.
When it lights, you can be somewhat assured the interlock is in safe mode (somewhat assured).
The hr meter has a series of blocks that fill showing each part in the system (motion levers, pto brake etc). If the system is understood by the operator, he can look and see if they are filled. If they aren't, it's telling you there is a problem in the particular area, motion lever for example.
Its a very nice feature, if its understood.
But, the male species is born with all knowledge of mechanical devices.
Ego controls that instinct. LOL No need to read the op manual.

The pump activates for 10 secs, approx. when the key is turned to run IF interlock demands are met. Most everything goes through the hr meter.
It's not that easy it bypass either.
If I get a chance, I'll post the start circuit, that is a dealer doc

If it doesn't light at all, you're in for a few bad hrs, or days, or weeks.

 

I will check into this as soon as I get home today and post a picture of my hourmeter and what blocks are functional. I really do appreciate all of the insight and suggestions guys. Like I said, somethings I can do and feel comfortable doing. Some I need a little help with. And a few more I know better than to be messing with! Lol

 

Oil sensor and fuel pump use the same connector on ECV. Both are yellow. You should have 12v at the fuel pump connector for the first 6-10 seconds key is turned on. Module sends a ground if, as ricky says, everything is as it's suppose to be. Have you tried running power and ground to the pump to see it it kicks on??

 

It appears I have found the problem- wiring issue on the fuel pump module harness. Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions! They pointed me in the right direction.