I need to mow 3 acres of wet grass that is 6” to 14” tall. It was let go for 30 days after mowed to 1”. Can or should I use my well maintained 60” hustler super Z. 27 HP Kohler Eng.? It has cast iron spindles. Any thoughts if it’s ok on how to do it? Never done anything this challenging before. It cuts 6” all the way up. Thanks for any advise.
Vex
I mow parts of my pasture to 4.5" all the time with my Scag Cheetah (31 hp and 61" deck) no problem BUT not wet grass. Grass is usually about 8-10" tall when I cut it. Any reason you can't wait until the grass is dry?
Take your time and make larger than normal overlaps. Wet grass will build up quickly on the underside of your deck, dry grass is not a problem.
Take your time and make larger than normal overlaps. Wet grass will build up quickly on the underside of your deck, dry grass is not a problem.
Of course it can do it. Are you familiar with the property? Just be sure there aren't rocks, tree stumps, lying fence posts hidden on the property.
Why not wait until the grass dries and do it later in the day...
Also: you should be side discharging, not attempting to mulch.
Why not wait until the grass dries and do it later in the day...
Also: you should be side discharging, not attempting to mulch.
I'd plan on double cutting it for a cleaner appearance. I'd cut on the highest setting.
Why was it cut so short before? One inch is super low.
Why was it cut so short before? One inch is super low.
At 1 inch I suspect there was a great deal of scalping and very dull blades when done unless it's billiard table smooth...I'd bet real money it isn't....
Most grass that tall will likely have a higher moisture content due to the size of the plant itself, so even if very dry...it's still a little wet per se.
Most grass that tall will likely have a higher moisture content due to the size of the plant itself, so even if very dry...it's still a little wet per se.
I did want to add...
The shorter a mower's cut height setting, the higher the chances of striking dirt or solid objects with the blades, in turn potentially causing damage to equipment, personnel, or surrounding structures.
That being said...
I would want to walk this field first, to see if perhaps it has deep ruts such as from a tractor.
If it does it's unlikely I would want to take a finish mower onto it.
But if it's reasonably level, I can't really see why not...
As was pointed out one might choose afternoon hours so the grass has had a chance to dry out as much as possible.
The shorter a mower's cut height setting, the higher the chances of striking dirt or solid objects with the blades, in turn potentially causing damage to equipment, personnel, or surrounding structures.
That being said...
I would want to walk this field first, to see if perhaps it has deep ruts such as from a tractor.
If it does it's unlikely I would want to take a finish mower onto it.
But if it's reasonably level, I can't really see why not...
As was pointed out one might choose afternoon hours so the grass has had a chance to dry out as much as possible.
I mow my personal acreage at 4.75. Lowest I've ever tried was 3inches and I got scalping all over the place. I can't fathom how one inch would go lol 😆
Most people won't pay for this, but for the absolute best results triple cut it.
First pass highest setting
Second pass desired height of cut.
Third pass 1/4 or 1/2 higher than second cut.
Having the third pass set higher than the second enables the deck to only disperse and only cut stragglers.
All passes in different directions of course.
When I double cut my place and its slightly overgrown I cut it at 4.75 first then double cut at 5. I'm basically only doing steps 2 and 3 because grass isn't really that out of hand.
First pass highest setting
Second pass desired height of cut.
Third pass 1/4 or 1/2 higher than second cut.
Having the third pass set higher than the second enables the deck to only disperse and only cut stragglers.
All passes in different directions of course.
When I double cut my place and its slightly overgrown I cut it at 4.75 first then double cut at 5. I'm basically only doing steps 2 and 3 because grass isn't really that out of hand.
It's interesting, taking it one step further...
Much past a triple cut things will start to clumping, usually during the 4th pass with wet grass, dry grass may be able to tolerate a 5th pass but one thing I have learned: Once it starts clumping STOP!
Additional passes will not make things better, in fact it gets worse.
Clumps will result in oxygen deprivation of everything it covers, so all grass under the clumps will die... Best thing to do at this stage is use a backpack blower and disperse everything with that.
Time consuming, but it will preserve the health of the lawn.
What I like doing when I see it's going to clump irrepairably...
And this is best done right from the git go... So it takes practice, to understand which grass will clump, because if it will be fine with 2-3 passes then this method takes more time and effort. But when it can be foreseen the best thing I have found is to windrow the clippings, then use a tarp and a rake.
Get it up best as possible, then run over it one last time.
Hard work, but it's way faster than bagging.
These pictures, not one of the best lawns in that sense but the grass is thick and this time it was tall, too.
The mower is my Dixie Chopper.
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Much past a triple cut things will start to clumping, usually during the 4th pass with wet grass, dry grass may be able to tolerate a 5th pass but one thing I have learned: Once it starts clumping STOP!
Additional passes will not make things better, in fact it gets worse.
Clumps will result in oxygen deprivation of everything it covers, so all grass under the clumps will die... Best thing to do at this stage is use a backpack blower and disperse everything with that.
Time consuming, but it will preserve the health of the lawn.
What I like doing when I see it's going to clump irrepairably...
And this is best done right from the git go... So it takes practice, to understand which grass will clump, because if it will be fine with 2-3 passes then this method takes more time and effort. But when it can be foreseen the best thing I have found is to windrow the clippings, then use a tarp and a rake.
Get it up best as possible, then run over it one last time.
Hard work, but it's way faster than bagging.
These pictures, not one of the best lawns in that sense but the grass is thick and this time it was tall, too.
The mower is my Dixie Chopper.
3 Questions for you:
I'm thinking it's a potential customer and you should be charging additional for the extra height in question.
- Who (you or someone else) mowed it to to 1" height 30 days ago?
- If someone else mowed it to 1" in height, why isn't that same person being used for this mow?
- Is this a customer that you are charging to mow, or your own personal property?
I'm thinking it's a potential customer and you should be charging additional for the extra height in question.
6-14" is long grass, but it's not crazy field grass....If you run commercial mowers this isn't that crazy. 4-5x cutting? Absolutely not.
Circle track mow that lawn blowing out on a nice warm sunny afternoon, maybe 4". Enjoy a nice lunch in your trucks ac, or under a tree and then double cut slightly longer then before.
Clippings will be dispersed much better and the grass clippings dried out while you waited. Won't be a perfect cut when you leave, but after a good cut 1 week later you will be happy.
Circle track mow that lawn blowing out on a nice warm sunny afternoon, maybe 4". Enjoy a nice lunch in your trucks ac, or under a tree and then double cut slightly longer then before.
Clippings will be dispersed much better and the grass clippings dried out while you waited. Won't be a perfect cut when you leave, but after a good cut 1 week later you will be happy.
If I have to run over something 5x, it’s not gonna look good no matter what. It might look “better” than before. But I would think it’s a long way from looking “good.” That’s where I’d start with this one, personally. Multiple visits would be my main point to the customer if he/she is looking for more than a solid “knock down” of this field. I’d also be concerned about rutting with that many passes - but I guess if it starts out at 14” that’s less of a concern, than with a regularly maintained customer.
I’ve never cut stuff that high down, and then turned around to cut it again (immediately) even lower. I cut the height it’s gonna be at, and then raise it. If I have to disperse clippings (like in the Spring around here) my Scag decks do this best in transport.
If my initial cut is in transport, because the grass is soooo long, how it looks when I’m done is the absolute last thing on my mind. If the new customer is concerned with how nice it looks, that would mean this is more of a “project” and one time ain’t gonna miraculously turn this place purty, and I’d convey that so he/she had realistic expectations.
Like was mentioned, be very cognizant of what you cannot see down there. Mower preservation would be my number 1 concern (so much so that I’d probably pass on this one).
I’ve never cut stuff that high down, and then turned around to cut it again (immediately) even lower. I cut the height it’s gonna be at, and then raise it. If I have to disperse clippings (like in the Spring around here) my Scag decks do this best in transport.
If my initial cut is in transport, because the grass is soooo long, how it looks when I’m done is the absolute last thing on my mind. If the new customer is concerned with how nice it looks, that would mean this is more of a “project” and one time ain’t gonna miraculously turn this place purty, and I’d convey that so he/she had realistic expectations.
Like was mentioned, be very cognizant of what you cannot see down there. Mower preservation would be my number 1 concern (so much so that I’d probably pass on this one).
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