OH--Put New oil filter back in then add final quart oil------

 

FROM BRIGGS: The system keeps oil 6 to 18 degrees lower than traditional systems which reduces thermal breakdown. It features a dry sump engine, meaning that the oil isn’t maintained in the cylinder, but instead in a separate reservoir. So 1 quart of oil remains in the engine with 5 in the reservoir rather than the typical 2 or 2.5 quarts in the engine, which increases the life of the oil, said Ben Miller, product manager.

 

all my oil changes are done at the dealer-never any warranty questions that way-especially the first "break-in" change.

cheap insurance for me, and no mess.

 

[Whatever]---Cant see how people can justify putting a quart of [DIRTY] oil back in a 6quart oil change????Its like a 100 people jump off a bridge guess I,ll go too they must all be right???-----Next time you change oil in your truck put a quart of that dirty nasty oil back in--would you do that???

Everbody is scared to do anything different even though its better????

 

No different than the half quart left in the 2 quart kind.

 

Wow, your filter looks pretty gnarly. Is the filter from your first oi change on a brand new mower? I could understand having that much shavings during break in.
New engines can be pretty tight for the first 10-50 hours. I got a new mower last fall that used about 1 1/2 gals of gas per hour for the first 20 or so hours. After that, fuel consumption fell to closer to a gallon an hour. This demonstrates there is a lot of internal friction during initial break-in, so my oil filter likely looked like yours.

 

Yep First oil change at 44hours--I read where briggs is suppose to run them at factory and drain oil out???

 

That's not a bad idea. It would help people from destroying their new engine. Kawasaki recommends an oil and filter change after the first 12 hours. I changed mine at 12, 25 and 50 hours. Now I change the oil and filter every 70-80 hours.
keep up the good work!

 

yep first oil change at 44hours---

Well I just changed the Trans oil [TZ-5400] and SAME thing--LOTS of CRAP and I mean Crap in the filters----I did this at 46hours now,,,Glad I did, All that stuff you see is from inside filters NOT any dirt I put in--I cut with clean razer knife on clean table,,,,

And this I got from BRIGGS TODAY---They say change the oil after the FIRST 5 HOURS of use to get all stuff out--READ it--dont say that anywhere in the owners manual??????
[

Hello Charles,

Thank you for your inquiry.

I was asking for the model number to address your first question about draining the oil. As for the metal shavings, yes they are from the manufacturing of the engine. That is why we recommend the engine break-in procedure and changing the oil after the first 5 hours of use.

 

Charles, to add a bit of confusion, many say all new engines should be broken in with conventional oil, and switched to synthetic afterward. New cars come with synthetic oil in their engines, so it's one of those controversial topics.

 

Yep got that right--oil topic can go on for ever--All I wanted to do is show people there is ALOT crap in a NEW engine or Trans that should be got out,,,

 

Yeah, you did a good job of that. That first two oil changes are critical Your filter shows what I'd call huge chunks of metal

 

Nice work!

 

Thanks--those engine filters were about what I,d expect?--But someplace I read where Briggs is suppose to run these and break them in and drain oil??? I dont think they do??
Those hydro filters REALLY surprised me cause not just some metal BUT alot of other stuff I dont even know what it is???

 

Thanks--those engine filters were about what I,d expect?--But someplace I read where Briggs is suppose to run these and break them in and drain oil??? I dont think they do??
Those hydro filters REALLY surprised me cause not just some metal BUT alot of other stuff I dont even know what it is???

Looks like something you'd find on ice cream like sprinkles, and then the big chunk? Contamination during assembly or in the hoses? I'd do another change at say 100 hours and see if any more disturbing debris appears.

 

I never cut open an engine or hydro filter. If I did and saw what you found, I'd freak out!

 

after another look, I will say that's amazing.

And now I wonder just how many hrs. an engine could last if treated like that? I'll never know but you will!

 

I know this is an old thread but.... you go through all that trouble to get an extra quart of oil out only to put a lessor visocosity in it? Why? Big difference in hot summer temps between 40 & 50 grade.

 

How can you say getting another qt of dirty oil out is [not] good?? And why would I be putting in [ lessor viscosity in it] doing it this way?? YOU make no sense?
Next time you change oil in your truck take and put one qt dirty oil back in it--same thing.

 

I think he may be confused because you show a bottle of 15w40, versus 50wt. But you do show a bottle of 20w50 there also.

 

First off. Calm down. I guess I struck a nerve. I didn't say it wasn't good to remove all the oil. I was questioning why you would go to the trouble of draining lines + sump only to use a lessor 40 grade oil vs. the 50. Previous poster was correct; you have 2 photos; 1 with 40 and 1 with 50. The 50 in the photo is good for hydros, not the engine. 20w-50 in the engine is getting a little to high in lower spring and fall tamps.

 

kawasaki reccomends straight 30 weight

 

For what? Look at the lower right corner of this image from their site-