Okay, I'm new to this irrigation thing. I usually fix equipment but I am filling in for our guy who does the irrigation while he is hurt.

Equipment being used: Hunter I-Core controller, Rain Bird PEB valve.

My valve solenoid is not energizing when the zone is active. I have 26v at the solenoid splice from the controller but the solenoid will not energize. I replaced the solenoid with a new one, still nothing. I tested the old solenoid by applying voltage from a portable power source and it is operating as it should. I tested the new valve while it was installed in the valve the same way, by applying voltage and the zone kicks on fine. The valve can be manually opened and the zone operates as it should.

For some reason the solenoid is not opening even though there is correct voltage present. I moved the control wire from its current zone location in the controller to an empty location, same issue. I moved the wire to a terminal that already has a zone connected, the current zone works fine, the problem zone does not work. The controller is brand new, replacing an much older box.

As it is Friday, I will not be getting back to this until Monday so any tests I need to perform will not happen until then.

What am I missing? Can the voltage be correct but the current on that line be too low to energize the solenoid? It seems it would have to be a problem with the wire itself since it moving to another zone in the controller doesn't help.

Thank you.

Let me regress

 

So even though I am getting proper voltage to the solenoid, you think the wire might be broken? Like maybe it is still making a slight connection which allows the voltage but not the current? The feed line is solid wire so I would think a break would be just an open circuit but I could be wrong.

 

I sent you my number, call me

 

Jim is a dam witch doctor with all of his tips and tricks.

I still get calls and do locates for other companies when time allows it. But man I can't seem to catch a break with my new locator. Every time I use it its like I for got how to set it up.

Jim when locating a snake inside a 1'' poly pipe should I increase the frequency? I'm not having good luck on the low settings. Thoughts?

Much apreech for all your time.

 

Had a similar situation recently. Could hear and feel the solenoid turning on, but no flow. Ended up being the exhaust port where the solenoid screws in was plugged up in the bottom half of the valve body. Had changed the top half and was scratching my head why it still wasn't working. Glad I tried a thin wire before cutting the whole valve out.

 

Found out that the wire from the controller to the box has damage somewhere. We had our electrician over to take a look and we had 26v from power to common, but when the valve was connected, the voltage dropped to 0. So it could send the 26v but not enough current to open the solenoid and would drop out. There happened to be a splice in the box for another zone so for no we connected the solenoid to that zone. Luckily there was no pressure drop that would have affected the other zone.

 

Voltage is a measurement of a potential force, similar to a static water measurement.

Amperage is a dynamic measurent, or, the potential force when working. Like when a system is running.

You can measure a potential force under some "open circuit" conditions but when a load is applied the potential disappears.

Ganging the valves may work right now, may work forever. Ganging the 2 zones buys you plenty of time to find and fix the problem, or not. That's totally up to you.

 

Hell I had to do it today just to keep a well from cycling.

 

With I-Core, I sometimes see the first station module (1-6) get damaged from surge. Try swapping a different module into the #1 slot. Leave the original module out and move everyone else to the left. Test. See if your voltage and amperage comes back to normal.

 

Do I still need to do this if the circuit in question is on station 27?

 

Yes. The first module COULD affect the other guys. This may not fix the problem but it is a good place to start. The modules kind of "daisy chain" the power starting from 1-6, then 7-12, etc. It just happens that Module #1 seems to fail first. Could you have a problem with the second or third module? Sure. It is rare, but when troubleshooting a problem like this you may want to check the station modules one at a time to make sure the power gets to #27, or whatever station is having problems.

And it is always good to test the terminal under LOAD. Voltmeters are great, but having a spare solenoid is golden when performing a power test.

 

And it is always good to test the terminal under LOAD. Voltmeters are great, but having a spare solenoid is golden when performing a power test.

We tested the wire under load and the voltage dropped to 0 on that circuit.

 

You might have a bad Power Module. That's the charcoal-colored critter all the way on the left-hand side. Careful, we make two models: One for the 30-station and a slightly larger one for the 42-station metal cabinet I-Core. Make sure you get the right one. And is this only happening on stations 25-30? If yes, I am afraid something in the backplane, the inner workings of the cabinet, got fried.

 

Only happening on station 27 which is why we figured it was a bad wire. The clock is a brand new install and the station was inoperative since install. But the station wire was unhooked before replacement so I assume this was an issue before I got to it so the clock is probably fine.

 

Were you reading 0 volts at the valve or at the controller? Like Jim said, you will read ghost voltage unless the circuit is under load. Sorry, trying to help. If Station 27 will fire a solenoid at the clock but not in the field, then we rule out the clock.....which is good for me. Back to you, Jim.

 

It's simple, do you have continuity?

If not find out why and reconcile the issue.

Or you can always rent a trencher from the electrician's and run new wire.

 

I PM'd you my contact numbers. Call Jim first. He's smarter.

 

No I'm not!

You have more brains in your little finger than I have in my whole body...

That's why you work for Hunter.......

 

Thank you, Jim.

My dog doesn't think I'm that smart. Nor do my kids.

 

Thank you, Jim.

My dog doesn't think I'm that smart. Nor do my kids.

No use feeding uppity dogs, nor kids neither.

 

I got nothin'. Ha!

 

Okay, I'm new to this irrigation thing. I usually fix equipment but I am filling in for our guy who does the irrigation while he is hurt.

Equipment being used: Hunter I-Core controller, Rain Bird PEB valve.

My valve solenoid is not energizing when the zone is active. I have 26v at the solenoid splice from the controller but the solenoid will not energize. I replaced the solenoid with a new one, still nothing. I tested the old solenoid by applying voltage from a portable power source and it is operating as it should. I tested the new valve while it was installed in the valve the same way, by applying voltage and the zone kicks on fine. The valve can be manually opened and the zone operates as it should.

For some reason the solenoid is not opening even though there is correct voltage present. I moved the control wire from its current zone location in the controller to an empty location, same issue. I moved the wire to a terminal that already has a zone connected, the current zone works fine, the problem zone does not work. The controller is brand new, replacing an much older box.

As it is Friday, I will not be getting back to this until Monday so any tests I need to perform will not happen until then.

What am I missing? Can the voltage be correct but the current on that line be too low to energize the solenoid? It seems it would have to be a problem with the wire itself since it moving to another zone in the controller doesn't help.

Thank you.

You can still get voltage from The Zone wire the common might be bad make sure you check your common connection