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Discussion starter · #821 ·
Haha! When the dealer was "setting it up" (adding oil and gas), he opened the gas cap to pour in some gas, and I remembered the last Timemaster (2020) I bought having that stupid, blue sponge in the gas tank.
"WAIT!" I exclaimed. "Don't put any gas in there! That fu@%ing sponge has to GO!"



And out it came with a yank of some needle nose pliers!

 
Also, I would REALLY like to repower the 2020 unit with a more powerful engine.
Other than the broken bolts for the recoil assembly, the mower is in generally decent condition, so I think it would be a good candidate for a new engine.
A lot of us are putting either the 200 or 223cc Kohler engines on them. Great engines with a good bit more power. I don't use mine as much as you do but I've had 3-4 years of trouble free use so far.
 
Pardon my ignorance, but what makes those more powerful than the 223 already on it?
I don't have the expertise to answer your question. The Kohler's are commercial engines with a 3 year warranty. I'm guessing a 20% or more increase in power. The older Kawasaki fj180's are stronger than the Briggs. Bigger fuel tank as well.
 
Nice mower
Thanks for sharing
I was thinking about getting one a few years ago
They've improved most of the issues from the first models👍👍
 
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Discussion starter · #830 · (Edited)
Nice mower
Thanks for sharing
I was thinking about getting one a few years ago
They've improved most of the issues from the first models👍👍
I think the only two things that were improved were:

1 - Improved pulleys/bushings/bearings/whatever they are called - my 2014 unit ate them like candy.
Luckily, my dealer replaced them for free while under warranty AND after warranty. I think there was so many complaints they just covered them regardless. (I did pay once WAY after the warranty was expired)
My 2020 unit has yet to need any of them replaced. Definite improvement.

2 - More powerful engine.
Not much more power, but a little. Not enough for me to notice a huge improvement over the 2014.
(My 2020 has the bigger engine - same as this one)

Physically all of them seem to be 100% identical over the years with the exception of the metal guard that was added to the front to protect the carburetor.

Then this year they started making them and shipping them with that goofy "curved" handle.
Glad I was able to snag one of the last of the old style units. Sticker on the ENGINE sez it was manufactured in March 2022.
 
I think the only two things that were improved were:

1 - Improved pulleys/bushings/bearings/whatever they are called - my 2014 unit ate them like candy.
Luckily, my dealer replaced them for free while under warranty AND after warranty. I think there was so many complaints they just covered them regardless. (I did pay once WAY after the warranty was expired)
My 2020 unit has yet to need any of them replaced. Definite improvement.

2 - More powerful engine.
Not much more power, but a little. Not enough for me to notice a huge improvement over the 2014.
(My 2020 has the bigger engine - same as this one)

Physically all of them seem to be 100% identical over the years with the exception of the metal guard that was added to the front to protect the carburetor.

Then this year they started making them and shipping them with that goofy "curved" handle.
Glad I was able to snag one of the last of the old style units. Sticker on the ENGINE sez it was manufactured in March 2022.
When I joined in 2017 I was thinking about a used one

Found a used one but sold too fast

Then joined here and saw the bad reviews and pulley issues

It was definitely the model like your 2014

I was ready to modify it myself before they officially fixed it

I wound up with a used 48" scag walk behind that I've barely used

Still like the idea of a lightweight 30" mower
 
As a side note I wasn't a fan of the personal pace at first

But after using my 21 with it and it's adjusted right it will pull plenty hard enough to go up almost any hill
 
Discussion starter · #833 ·
Gobbling up that high grass.
SO much faster and easier than using the 21" on this back yard.

I cut it the last 2 weeks with the 21 since my 30 was acting up and I could only get 2.5-3 passes before the bag was full.
I must have made 7 trips to the dumping spot past the end of the yard.
With the 30" I dumped the bag 3 times - could have pushed it to 2, but it would have been super-packed.

This 30" mower is a life saver for times when it's not possible to use my 36" walk behind.






After mowing this lawn.




 
Discussion starter · #834 · (Edited)
April 1, 2025
Time for the annual snapping of the traction control cable! :ROFLMAO:

Just fired up all of my mowers today to get ready for the fast approaching mowing season opener.
Pretty much happens every spring - start it up no problem, let it run a minute, push the Personal Pace handle to go, and SNAP! (2024 unit)

Those cables are notorious for rusting and breaking, so not unexpected at all.
I have a spare cable for my 2014 Timemaster. Gotta cross reference the numbers to see if the cable is the same on the new units.
 
Hey all - My idler pulley broke on my last mow. I ordered the Exmark 126-7890 Pulley upgrade kit but I am unable to tighten down the idler pulley bracket as it just keeps spinning at the end. Any thoughts or suggestions?
If the threads on the bolt itself are not the problem (unlikely), and if it attaches directly to the (aluminum) frame, then you probably have stripped threads in the aluminum frame (the frame is the large cast aluminum part above the steel mowing deck.) I would suggest using a Helicoil insert to repair the stripped out threads in the aluminum frame. I installed Helicoil inserts in almost every threaded mounting hole on my mower's frame, especially bolts that need to be adjusted, loosened or tightened periodically. If the bolt that mounts that bracket has 5/16"-18 threads, the Helicoil p/n for a small kit would be 5521-5. Or if the bolt for the hole you are trying to repair is a different size, just do a search under "Helicoil kit (your bolt's thread size)". There are numerous YouTube videos showing how to use Helicoils if you are unfamiliar.
 
If the threads on the bolt itself are not the problem (unlikely), and if it attaches directly to the (aluminum) frame, then you probably have stripped threads in the aluminum frame (the frame is the large cast aluminum part above the steel mowing deck.) I would suggest using a Helicoil insert to repair the stripped out threads in the aluminum frame. I installed Helicoil inserts in almost every threaded mounting hole on my mower's frame, especially bolts that need to be adjusted, loosened or tightened periodically. If the bolt that mounts that bracket has 5/16"-18 threads, the Helicoil p/n for a small kit would be 5521-5. Or if the bolt for the hole you are trying to repair is a different size, just do a search under "Helicoil kit (your bolt's thread size)". There are numerous YouTube videos showing how to use Helicoils if you are unfamiliar.
Thanks for the response. It is definitely the threads in the frame and not the bolts, unfortunately. Is it possible to just put a nut with threadlocker on the bottom side of the frame? These two bolts come out on the bottom of the frame of the mower.
 
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