Do you have an auger? I think it would take 8 man hours for everything from plant pick-up to watering in. So multiply that by your hourly rate plus equipment wear. For me that would be about $500 labor w/ no guarantee.

 

$2,000.00 one year guarantee.

 

$1500.00 plus one year warrenty

 

$1500.00 plus one year warrenty

Ofcourse, it's different everywhere you are but i would try at least 2.5-3 times the price of the plant. That should cover labor and a one year warranty.

Hey, husky. I went through the same program at psu. Graduated in dec 2000. Is Larry Kuhns still teaching? Still competing in ALCA competitions?

 

I would bid $1800 if we can auger the holes with a Dingo.

 

We try to avoid augers to prevent soil compaction, or the need to eradicate that kind of compaction.

That sounds like a 1 day project for 2 workers with a shovel.

Guarantees are up to you.

Sounds like a good project for about $800 of labor + profit over plant cost.

 

Shovel? Where is the rope or the cord?

I agree that 40 #5 plants is shovel work. But if I already had a Dingo and auger I'd use it.

 

We try to avoid augers to prevent soil compaction, or the need to eradicate that kind of compaction.

That sounds like a 1 day project for 2 workers with a shovel.

Guarantees are up to you.

Sounds like a good project for about $800 of labor + profit over plant cost.

Compaction? I am familiar w/ glazing the hole, but not compaction.

 

Buy each plant for $20.00 and install for $60.00 a plant, should't even take you all day.

 

5 gallon pots are small holes. As long as the soil is reasonable, I would charge $35/each installed, making $15 per shrub and by myself that would only take 3-4 hours, clearing $600

 

My pricing would work out to about $2000 total with a 1 year gaurantee

 

2 guys 1 day, what are you puonding holes in rock and blasting. 2 hours easy.

 

Compaction? I am familiar w/ glazing the hole, but not compaction.

That's what I refer to when I mention "compaction" - I consider the glazing to be a form or peripheral compaction. It's a layer that roots can't penetrate as well.

But it can be scraped off the edges.

Sometimes, it is easier to use an auger and put a few minutes into fine-tuning the edges.

 

Are there any studies that prove glazing? It seems as though roots will just about penetrate anything. I am just wondering if root swirl really happens or not. I would also think that glazing would only apply to clay type soils.

 

I don't know of any specific studies. They probably do exist since I have heard talks by university researchers on the subject. Glazing is more prevalent in soils with a significant amount of clay. It slow or prevent the roots from growing into the surrounding soil. It is usually pretty easy to rough up the sides of the hole with a shovel. If you auger a hole and the sides are smooth and shiny all the way around that will have a negative effect on root growth.

 

I know squat about 'glazing' but I've done MANY installations of large and small plant materials in pure clay. In my experience, the plant (whatever it is) will 'sulk' for about 1 full season as it accustoms itself to soil VASTLY DIFFERENT from its' original planting medium. Then, it begins to grow and will grow well from that time on.

It's not so much to do with 'glazing': it's just that the roots are not used to having to push SO HARD to grow. They DO learn to grow through the clay and once they've balanced out the required strength (from the plant) to grow new roots - then they will begin to make better top growth.

The plants should manage to survive the first year and begin to thrive in the second.

BTW, where I live euonymous alata has been declared an invasive and can no longer be planted. You might want to confirm that it's still legal in your state to plant it.

 

I know squat about 'glazing' but I've done MANY installations of large and small plant materials in pure clay. In my experience, the plant (whatever it is) will 'sulk' for about 1 full season as it accustoms itself to soil VASTLY DIFFERENT from its' original planting medium. Then, it begins to grow and will grow well from that time on.

It's not so much to do with 'glazing': it's just that the roots are not used to having to push SO HARD to grow. They DO learn to grow through the clay and once they've balanced out the required strength (from the plant) to grow new roots - then they will begin to make better top growth.

The plants should manage to survive the first year and begin to thrive in the second.

BTW, where I live euonymous alata has been declared an invasive and can no longer be planted. You might want to confirm that it's still legal in your state to plant it.

The little phrase I like to use is Weep, Creep, Leap. The first year, the plant will " Weep" Getting used to its surroundings and not really grow a whole lot. The second year, it will "Creep" and grow a bit, and then the third year it will " Leap" and take off growing.

 

Yeah I think that is completely true. I have been reading some container books... and for the entire life of the plant they have been nurtured in a perfect potting mix which is not compact as top soil... and in fact does not even resemble top soil... peat moss, mulched pine bark, sand and nutrients. So shock is almost inevitable. Even field grown plants that are grown in soil conditions lose 80% of there root system.

I see no disadvantage to using an auger. Even if the clay is glazed, I think it will happen just as much w/ a shovel. It seems the sides of the holes are almost glazed anyway w/ a shovel or pick. Maybe for certain plants more care would be needed(roses hydrangeas, etc), but for hardy fast growing plants... loropetalum, hollies, legustrum, etc maybe as much care would not be needed.

 

well if you dont have the auger, dont worry about it its deifnately not worth renting, and man, 5 gallon pots, its not like its a 30" tree ball, do it by hand man

plant material times 2.5 is 1000 bucks

.4 hr each by the time you figure picking them up digging a hole 2.5 times the size of the container (but who follows these specs it seems), times that by 40 of them at 50 an hr is 800

plus tilling and soil amendments if your going that far, or mulching

so just digging, ploping and regrading the dirt out, not removing any, is say 1800 bucks, 1 year replacement, which i would try to get out of unless its great soil that youve tested or you yourself have amended the soil ....and know that the soil is draining nice, although ive had decent results with all euonymus in all sorts of different conditions, sun and part shade

 

Little over $2K. Two guys, with Mini-skid & auger. Typically planted with soil amendment (compost), & microbial fert .

Burning bush is invasive in NH also, and as of today (1/1/07) can no longer be planted here.

 

Are there any studies that prove glazing? It seems as though roots will just about penetrate anything. I am just wondering if root swirl really happens or not. I would also think that glazing would only apply to clay type soils.

There's a ton of studies on compaction.

"Glazing" is a nickname.

That kind of compaction won't happen to sand soil, but many soils have clay.

Not sure how bad on a sandy loam. But a clay loam might have that kind of compaction problem to some degree.

The more clay, the worse the problem many times - especially if it's wet.

 

BTW, where I live euonymous alata has been declared an invasive and can no longer be planted. You might want to confirm that it's still legal in your state to plant it.

It's not invasive here.

So I was curious - in your area, does it germinate and invade certain areas more than others; like forest, field or hillsides?

 

It's not invasive here.

So I was curious - in your area, does it germinate and invade certain areas more than others; like forest, field or hillsides?

Yes, yes, and yes. It appears to be capable of becoming a general-purpose pest - beautiful, but damaging to local ecosystems (in terms of displacing habitat and food plants for the wild critters).

 

I don't think the gov't has any place to tell us what we can and cannot plant.... just my opinion though.

 

With Euonymus alatus, I would not be too concerned with compaction or glazing, they are tough plants. I would sell mulch because it would be worth the investment for moisture retention and soil improvement.

The problem with this plant is many that are sold do not have the genetic traits for developing the great fall color. If it is the cultivar burning bush it should produce the great fall colors, if not? As well I see this plant incorrectly planted more often than not. Too often people put them too close to a fence or wall and too close to each other. I have read books that say this plant grows to about ten feet tall and five or six feet wide, but I have seen many plants that obviously did not read those books and grew to eighteen feet tall and nine feet wide.