Guardian,

That sounds like a tough one. It's possible that you have a problem with the clutch but before I replaced it I'd look for a short somewhere.

I'd start by inspecting the connectors at the clutch and the short "pigtail" between the clutch and the wiring harness. While your there go ahead and clean the connections if they are dirty or corroded. After that I'd follow the wires as best I could, look for any chafing of the insulation or exposed wires.

After that I would still take it to the dealer for inspection before I'd replace the clutch. "Normally" when a clutch is going bad it will start to show when you engage the PTO. A common symptom would be for the clutch to be slow to engage if it's been running for a while and is hot. Once engaged they usually stay engaged until you shut them off.

I see you’re in Pensacola. They guys over there at Seville’s are better than most. They should be able to get you taken care of if you need to take it in there. Don't tell Jim I said that though........it might go to his head.

Thanks,

Terry

 

Guardian,

I had a nearly identical problem with my Lazer Z XP (w/72" deck) which drove me nuts at about 120 hours. I checked and the PTO pig-tail wasn't disconnected, but one of the wires inside the pig-tail had broken off. I thought it was the PTO switch at forst and then checked fuses and all the wiring.

The good news was it was na easy fix even though my Exmark dealer offered to replace the entire wiring harness under warranty just to fix it. I didn't take his offer.

To save mower down time, I ended up going to the local Radio Shack and bought a new connector and short length of wire and fixed it myself. The bad news was that I had to do it twice as the other wire on the pig-tail broke a few weeks later. No problems since for the next 140 hours.

One suggestion I would make if to ensure you use some nylon cable ties on each side of the pig-tail connector to keep the engine vibrations from causing the wires to break.

Good luck.

 

Guardian,

Let me know what you find out.

Thanks,

Terry

 

I just picked up the mower from Seville. It was the Clutch cable! They replaced it and I am back in business! Thanks to all for the advise!

Jim is always ready to help and thats why I buy from him. His mechanic, Mark knows what he's doing. They make a great team. I have purchased 4 mowers from Seville since mid 2000.

Thanks for the help.

 

Originally posted by eXmark

After that I would still take it to the dealer for inspection before I'd replace the clutch. "Normally" when a clutch is going bad it will start to show when you engage the PTO. A common symptom would be for the clutch to be slow to engage if it's been running for a while and is hot. Once engaged they usually stay engaged until you shut them off.

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Is there anything else that could cause this problem when trying to engage the PTO or is it def. the clutch going? My Lazer Z has been doing this since about 700 hrs. If so i wanna get it replaced before the season starts. Also, how hard is it to change the clutch for a do-it-yourselfer?......Thank you.

 

mulchmonkey2000

Sorry it took me so long to get back with your.

Here are the general signs a clutch is getting weak. First you'll notice that when the clutch is hot it often takes a few seconds for the blades to engage. After than you'll notice that you often must throttle down to get it to engage. When it's about gone you'll start to notice problems engaging even when the clutch is cold.

If your clutch showing these symptoms my guess would be it's worn out. You should however have the dealer inspect it for certain.

Thanks,

Terry

 

Ive gone through 2 pto's in about 5 years. Ive had the symptoms you talk about till they eventually won't engage no more. My local dealer keeps giving my ogura brand pto's. How ofter do these things go and is there a better brand to use?

 

Mustang,

We did use the Ogura for a short time a few years ago when Warner was having some issues with their clutch. What we found was that as bad as the Warner clutch was at that time it was still better than the Ogura.

It was kinda tough on the clutch manufacturers when horsepower numbers started going up. They were all scrambling to build a clutch that would hold up.

The Warner that we use today is much improved over both of these clutches that were in use a few years ago. I don't have any idea how the current Ogura designs perform because we don't use them. The Warner clutch however in it's current design has been a very good clutch.

The Warner clutch is actually performing well enough that we've recently discontinued stocking the Ogura. When your dealer orders a new clutch under the old Ogura part number we ship the appropriate improved Warner clutch as a replacement.

Thanks,

Terry

 

Originally posted by oak-knoll-farm
I had a nearly identical problem with my Lazer Z XP (w/72" deck) which drove me nuts at about 120 hours.

Interesting, my clutch began making a grinding noise at 120 HRS, it later failed under warranty.

 

How hard would it be to replace the clutch? Is this something that i should just send to my dealer to have done? I would like to get a new one put in before the mowing season starts for me to eliminate problems later.

 

Mulchmonkey,

You can change a clutch yourself but there's a risk. If you don't get the spacer installed correctly or if you don't get it torqued properly the bearings won't last. I'll get the torque spec. to you when I return to the office.

If it were my machine I'd probably have the dealer install it. The labor shouldn't be too awfully bad and it's good peace of mind if it prevents a premature failure down the road.

Thanks,

Terry

 

Originally posted by eXmark
I'll get the torque spec. to you when I return to the office.

Terry, if you could get me those torque spec. that would be great. thank you

 

Mulchmonkey,

The bolt shold be torqued to 45 ft. lbs. Also make sure the spacer is installed correctly.

Thanks,

Terry