I see no reason to use extra oil over what the owners manual says. Along the same lines, if the the Echo is 50:1 use the same oil as he Stihl or whatever the engine calls for.

Mike

 

I run Stihl BP blowers and I use to put in the Stihl 50:1, but I change to Opti-2. Opti-2 50:1 IMO is alot better, more power, runs smoother, non smoking and the spark arresting screen in the exhaust does not clog up, stays clean.

 

I use Amsoil 100/1 in all my 2 cycle equip. www.amsoil.com

All the spark arresters come out right after I purchase the equipment.

 

I just bought a new Stihl blower (420) and the kid selling me the blower said to add a little more oil mix in with the gas(for a 2 gallon tank add the amount of oil for 2 and a half gallons of gas). Also, i was also wondering if i should keep the mixed gas separate for my echo trimmer. I am thinking i don't but just would rather be on the safe side. Thanks

I have a lot of Stihl equipment...all call for 50:1 mixture. DO IT ! JIM.

 

All I use is Stihl oil and mix it to 48 to 1 I don't lean my fuel completely out it is slightly oil rich. I mix my fuel 10 litres at a time Stihl sells a little bottle of mix oil that makes 50 to 1 with 10 litres of gas. I never had or have carburator problems with my 3 Stihl saws and FS-85 trimmer.

I never had to have my Stihl equipment repaired for carb problems my FS-85 is 5-6 years old the carb has never been touched. I only used Stihl mix oil since new same with my MS260 046 Magnum and my 051AV runs better than ever on Stihl 40 to 1 mix.

The little Stihl bottles are perfect its the right amount of oil for the ratio you want to mix no need for a measuring cup no more dealing with not enough mix oil left in the bottle.

 

Mix@ 50/1. Too much oil can be bad to. Too much can form a carbon buildup 'under' the rings and cause them to stick, or move outwards, wearing prematurly. I can't understand why anyone would want to mix @ 100/1. Some has said that @ 100/1 their engine doesn't smoke or foul plugs.. A engine in good shape wont smoke or foul plugs. @ 50/1 either. The savings can't be much, if any, definatly not worth voiding your warranty, and risking engine failure. If the engine isn't ran very hard you could probably get by with 10/40 havoline for years also, but for us in the business of running two cycle engines 8 hrs a day...stick with what the manufactuer recommends.

 

I can't believe I just read this on amsoil's site.

Amsoil motor oil

They recommend 25,00 miles between changes to justify their cost effectivness???

Any oil, no matter what kind, gets dirty just as quick as any other. No oil extends the change interval.

 

I have worked at a multi line motorcycle dealer as a service manager for the last 12 years. I also was a service manager for 3 years at a commercial lawn equipment dealer. I cant believe the number of people that dont want to follow the manufacturers recommendations. Why? The people that design and build engines are way smarter than you and I. Anything that lowers perfomance or shortens life is death to the company making the product. Stihl does all kinds of testing to get the maximum life and power out of their products. Do what they say and your equipment will last a long time. As oil technology progresses two stroke engines will tolerate less and less oil. This does not mean use less than what is recommended. The Amsoil that can be run for 25,000 miles makes me nervous. The oil may be better but there are all kinds of combustion byproducts that leak past the rings. What happens to the oil as it gets progressivley more and more infected with contaminants? Oil still needs changed for this reason. I dont believe the 25,000 mile oil change theory and I dont buy the 100:1 theory either. I know a lot of peole love amsoil, personaly I wont use it. No offense to any one just my opinion.

 

If you put in extra oil in the mix that means less gas which means a leaner mixture which means a hotter running engine with more deposits under the rings, in the exhaust port and in the muffler which means more money for the dealer.

Go ahead and assume the manufacturer of your equipment doesn't know as much as you do, it just means more money for the dealer.

Amsoil and Opti-2 are 100-1 oils and if you run them at 50-1 the dealer will get to make some more money.

FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDATIONS CONCERNING 2 CYCLE RATIOS.

Oldtimer

 

More oil you add to the fuel the richer it is less oil means you leaning the fuel out. Your better off with a slightly richer mix than a leaned out mix you have to remember a 2 stroke needs the oil. I know people that run to rich of a oil mix and it does cause problems when I see people running 32 to 1 in a saw that requires 50 to 1 isn't a good idea.

The saw shops I deal with both told me run close to a 50 to 1 mixture like the one shop told me 48 to 1 is good. They also told me run the Stihl oil its all what the fallers and loggers use here in their saws. When a faller makes their lively hood with their chainsaw they use what is proven and what will give the saw the most life. Most fallers do buy a couple saws a year mostly 066 and 046.

As for Amsoil I don't trust it who ever says they can run the fuel mixture at 100 to 1 forget it I'am going to stick with what is proven. I used to make part of my living with my saws doing some thinning and bucking.

 

If you really believe that, then please explain the reason for the adjustment screws on the carb.

Oldtimer

 

The oil is lubrication the adjusting screws have nothing todo with the leaness of the fuel if you don't have enough oil to lubricate the cylinder etc the saw will seize up. You lean the oil mixture out in your fuel you really run the risk of burning up the saw in no time flat.

I have seen a brandnew Husky saw someone bought from the local saw shop put the wrong mix into it saw was junk the 2nd day of use.

Myself if Stihl makes oil for their saws why not use it because it meets all their standards and its fairly cheap. Like I said I have been using Stihl oil for a long time never any problems so I'am not going to try anything else.

 

Most people refer to lean/rich as fuel/air, not oil/gasoline. I think that is where the confusion came in.

 

Thanks guys for the info. Well, since I followed the advice of that knuckle head should I do anything to my Stihl 420 blower or echo 210 trimmer. They both are brand new this season and have maybe 25- 20 hours on them at the higher gas/oil mixture.

 

If you use the Stihl oil, do what the bottle says. Not more, not less.

CGLC--next time you mix it, just do what the bottle says.

I run Opti-2 in all 2 cycle motors. I have for around 5 yrs. I mix it at a rate of around 80to1. I run it in all Stihl's, Redmax's, and a lawnboy calling for 32to1. Never a single failure. My business is my life and my equipment is extremely important. I have 1 stihl trimmer with over 3000 hours on it. Still runs strong and every day. Another Stihl trimmer with around 2000 hours on it. Stick edgers, backpack blowers, chainsaws, hedge trimmers, etc that are Redmax or Stihl have been run only on Opti-2 at 80to1 for years. Never one motor failure.

 

Opti-2 mixed @ 100-1 will work just as well. I have read that 90% of the 2 cycle engine problems are fuel related. In the past 2 1/2 months we have sold about 800 chain saws and have had no failures from properly mixed fuel but straight gas and cold seizures have brought a few back for pistons and cylinders.

Cold Seizures are sometimes diagnosed as a lean oil mixture, especially on larger pro saws. It's hard to convince some people that they can't use their saws until they are thoroughly warmed up but after a piston assembly and cylinder they listen better.

Several of our customers use Opti-2 @ 100-1 and this is on saws as large as a MS660. One of the biggest problems we see is the fuel being sold at some of the cut rate gas stations. We only use Amoco or BP 89 octane and for the last 2 years we have used Shindaiwa oil @ 50-1 because Shindaiwa comps a 55 gallon barrel when we order several hundred units at once. For at least 10 years prior to that all of our new equipment was sold with Opti-2 mixed @ 100-1.

We put mixed fuel in everything except diesels. This includes all new 2 and 4 cycle equipment we sell plus all equipment we service. I know that many people have their own opinions about what works best for them but after 22 years in business we have a pretty good idea what will work for everyone. We do not allow any of our empty fuel containers to be taken to the gas station without first adding the correct amount of mix oil to the container. Every fuel container, whether it is in the show room, assembly area or repair area can be used in every piece of equipment except diesels. Special markings are not required because all containers have the same thing in them

We are fortunate not to have oxygenated fuels in Florida so equipment can set for a few months and still start.

Oldtimer

 

why would a two cycle engine have to be "thoroughly warmed up" ?

 

Joe, the piston heats up faster than the cylinder. When anything heats up it expands. Most small engines only have about a thousandths and a half of clearance. When the piston grows faster than the cylinder you have metal to metal contact. This is not a good thing. In an extreme case the engine can actually lock up. The clue that this has happened is upon disassembley there will be score marks on the piston at the four corners of the wristpin boss or mount. The score marks will usually be worse on the exhuast side. This is not a fault of the oil, it is improper operation by the owner

 

where did you get this information from?

 

Joe I have been a mechanic for 27 years. About half that time has been in motorcycle repair. This is sort of common knowledge that I learned about many years ago. The first documentation of this that I saw in print was an engine failure analysis book by Yamaha. I have since seen similar documentation from Briggs, Stihl and several others. At least once a year every brand of motorcycle, lawn equipment etc has a product update school that is required to be a servicing dealer. At these schools that last anywhere from a day to a week new models are discussed and new features pointed out along with new maintenance procedures. The last portion of the classes are question and answer sessions. This is the most valuable part for me. Its very intriguing for me to get into the minds of the people that make the products we use. There are some very smart people in this world. As with anything knowledge is power.
Mike

 

The last portion of the classes are question and answer sessions. This is the most valuable part for me. Its very intriguing for me to get into the minds of the people that make the products we use. There are some very smart people in this world. As with anything knowledge is power.
Mike

Now that's what I call taking it a step farther. Truly an asset to this site.

 

Piston seizures

I also noticed on amsoils site that they recommend mixing @ 50/1 for commercial use. That should tell you a lot.

 

Husqvarna starting procedure

 

Joe as a service manager I have many customers that disagree with what I recommend. I am not a Nazi Hitler Mechanic. (no offense intended) You can run your equipment any way you like. What I do is recommend what Honda Kawasaki Yamaha and Suzuki teach us in these schools I mentioned earlier. When there is a question on why a particular engine failure occured they have the final say. In my time at the dealership a "4 corner" seizure warranty claim would be rejected and would be customer pay. There would be a chance that there would be some good will consideration contingent on educating the customer. The decision is made by the warranty/tech people at the respective manufacurer not by me. We always "pressure check" an engine before disassembly and yes an air leak will also cause seizure.

Oldtimer said "Cold Seizures are sometimes diagnosed as a lean oil mixture, especially on larger pro saws. It's hard to convince some people that they can't use their saws until they are thoroughly warmed up but after a piston assembly and cylinder they listen better."


On 2 stroke liquid cooled motorcycles we recommend letting the engine run until the cylinder is too hot to touch with your bare hand. Then you are ready for full throttle which is what motocross bikes are all about. Taken care of properly they will last a long time. Again I am not "TELLING" anybody they "HAVE" to do anything. Just passing on the advice that I have been given by the people that make the toys we play with.

 

do you know anyone that cuts trees, or grass with a motorcycle?
you are talking high performance engines operated at extremely harsh conditions. The subject at hand is chainsaws, and weedeaters.

The piston seizure you refer to can be caused by "VARIOUS" conditions.

As for passing along manufacturer info...I did just that for Husqvarna saws, and weedeaters...you gave motorcycle info. Theres a difference.