I think the gap is .030".... However you need to make sure you have a spark. You can search google or youtube for demonstration(s) on that mechanical procedure. Doesn't require a tester,,,just hold the spark plug with the end attached to the wire and grounding the threads against the engine head/cooling fins, while pulling on the starting rope....you'll see the blue or hear a slight spark sound Helps to do this at dusk or in the dark where you can turn off the lights.

Also make sure the new spark plug is tightened up to compress the compression washer. The engine needs to have compression to fire. Hand tight isn't going to cut it you'll need a wrench

ARE YOU 100% on replacing the fuel lines and fuel filter in re-attaching them to the correct ports? IF you reversed the fuel ports the engine won't fire either...

Did you check the carburetor diaphragm to see if it was in good condition? as well as a general cleaning of the carburetor in general, are you most certain the fuel inlet screen isn't blocked?

IS the choke and primer bulb operating correctly? (you will have to prime the engine if you replace the fuel lines) 3-4 primer bulb pushes

The gas in the tank freshly mixed?


if it passes all the above it will fire/run unless you have broken engine internals

 

I think the gap is .030".... However you need to make sure you have a spark. You can search google or youtube for demonstration(s) on that mechanical procedure. Doesn't require a tester,,,just hold the spark plug with the end attached to the wire and grounding the threads against the engine head/cooling fins, while pulling on the starting rope....you'll see the blue or hear a slight spark sound Helps to do this at dusk or in the dark where you can turn off the lights.

Also make sure the new spark plug is tightened up to compress the compression washer. The engine needs to have compression to fire. Hand tight isn't going to cut it you'll need a wrench

ARE YOU 100% on replacing the fuel lines and fuel filter in re-attaching them to the correct ports? IF you reversed the fuel ports the engine won't fire either...

Did you check the carburetor diaphragm to see if it was in good condition? as well as a general cleaning of the carburetor in general, are you most certain the fuel inlet screen isn't blocked?

IS the choke and primer bulb operating correctly? (you will have to prime the engine if you replace the fuel lines) 3-4 primer bulb pushes

The gas in the tank freshly mixed?

if it passes all the above it will fire/run unless you have broken engine internals

Thank you for all the info. I will check everything you mentioned. Do you have a link for the manual? I bought this at a garage sale and don't have one.

 

Check the spark arrestor, muffler, and exhaust port for buildup too.

I find it a real PITA to ground test a plug on a handheld without a helper, an inline spark tester is only 5 bucks at Harbor Freight if there's one around you.

 

Check the spark arrestor, muffler, and exhaust port for buildup too.

I find it a real PITA to ground test a plug on a handheld without a helper, an inline spark tester is only 5 bucks at Harbor Freight if there's one around you.

Spark arrestor and muffler seems to be OK. Not seeing much buildup.

 

Here is a link to the owners manual
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/143411/Ryobi-Ry08570.html
Parts breakdown
https://www.gardnerinc.com/manuals/...com/manuals/pdf/ipl/TTI/Ryobi_lawn_garden/blowers/RY08570_699/RY08570_699_r.pdf

 

Thank you!

 

Before ya bolt the muff. back on, check the cyl port for buildup. Prolly is OK at this time, but check it, right?
Then trash the carb and get ya a new one..or attempt to rebuild it. Naw...get a new one.

 

Before ya bolt the muff. back on, check the cyl port for buildup. Prolly is OK at this time, but check it, right?
Then trash the carb and get ya a new one..or attempt to rebuild it. Naw...get a new one.

Why do you think I need a new carburetor?

 

the carb rebuild kits are like $20 where a new carb is $25...

 

Yeah...what he said. ^^^
I might add, ya replaced the fuel lines , cause they were hard/cracked etc, right ?
Well the rubber diaphragm/s inside the carb lose their flexibility. Now, thay can usually be replaced, on a quality carb, howsomever, even on the best branded carbs, ya usually gots a couple of non replaceable check valves that can get stiff also, so rebuildin' is like a crap shoot.
Generally, I don't even repair Ryobi stuff, but fer you, It's prolly worth tinkerin' with, nothin' to lose, right?
So, I generally replace the whole carb, as was mentioned by my fellow Marylander.
So, jes do yerself a favor and pop a new carb on it.

Spend some time with GOOGLE, or search on here about carbs. Lots of good info from experienced mochanics.
Let us know how ya make out.

 

So the carburetor and muffler was cleaned, replaced a gasket that was torn, put everything back together, added fresh gas and oil and it started!
Is running great right now. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. This is a great site!

 

The ryobi leaf blower was working good after cleaning the carburetor, muffler, replacing the spark plug and a gasket bit lately it had been stalling after running for about 5-10 minutes. Restart it and it stalls again after about 5 minutes. Any ideas on what is causing this?

 

old gas?

 

It's gas that I was using for my weed wacker. I had some left and didn't want to waste it. How long does the gas last before you need to get new gas.

 

It depends on conditions and if you used stabilizer or oil with it in it

 

It depends on conditions and if you used stabilizer or oil with it in it[/QUOTE

Gas with oil in it.

 

generally if you use *regular* 87 octane gas you get about 1-2 months before it's stale enough to cause running and starting issues.

if you mix with a quality oil and the "premium" 91 octane they you can get 3-4 months before it gets stale.

Generally gas looses 1 octane point for every month. Some fuel stablizers might keep it fresh 4-6 months...but your taking a chance towards that 5th month... ... for a sure thing is a no brainer... if you can't remember then its time to get new......also recommend a sharpie marker date and write it on the can or on duct tape that you stick to the side of the can

If your not using much, I HIGHLY SUGGEST the pre-mix type that comes in the quart size metal containers which have a shelf life of a year... I think....or mix your pump gas in 1/2 gallon increments...that is 1.3 oz of oil to 1/2 gallon for a 50:1 mix ratio....or 0.65 oz to 1 qt. measure it exactly don't skimp. I use a Target brand glass measuring cup for both this purpose and for mix herbicides it was less than a dollar...point is you need to be on point of how much oil to mix with the given gas amount you use in a reasonable time frame

BUT most of us use 1-2 gallons of mix every week so we don't fret to much until the end of the season like now, and just keep the tanks dry and run until they are done idling and store them for 'winter' Then in the spring we bring em' out, replace the air filter, spark plug, check the muffler, bolt on a rebuilt/new carb, replace the fuel lines and fuel filter: and say we are good to go for the season.

 

Thank you for all the great information. Appreciate it!

 

Just FYI echo's brand 'power blend' and "Red Armor" mix oil's both have fuel stabilizers as printed on the bottle

or a $8 bottle of Stabilize 360 will also treat 80 gallons.... both of which should do the trick and give you 3-4 months shelf life of a gallon of 91-oct mix 2stroke fuel. Remember to store the sealed gas can in a cool dry place if at all possible... aka- not in the back of a pick-up truck bed, or on a utility trailer if possible.

 

I have same blower do u have the bellows for it