Test some micronutrient mixtures first.
If they do not produce much response--you probably don't need them--save yourself some big money. Also be sure to do a few full-detail soil tests or tissue tests--just to be sure that your micronutrients are all at sufficient levels.
Then you can go with the urea--probably adding some potash at the same time. Typical is to use about 14 percent as much potash as nitrogen.
Be sure to understand how to avoid burning the grass with the urea. The chance of fertilizer burn goes up in a major way when the temp exceeds 80 degrees--skip the potash on those days.
You did not say so--I am assuming you applied crabgrass control earlier in the season. I am assuming you plan to include Trimec for broadleaf control.

 

I've done tons of soil tests never did a tissue test. I'll check with the lab. Thx for the info much appreciated. Most of my lawns look food. I check pH. But some do lack in vibrance I guess might me a good description.

 

Would adding in some iron help? Have to make sure the turf is growing and not stressed. Sounds like your pH is good from what you mentioned.

I use a lot of organics in 3 of my 4 fert rounds. I remove it for the summer app due to it sticking. Cool season turf here. And I use at least 75% slow release fertilizer.

Just thinking out loud!!!

 

Try some Carbon Pro L. I use it all the time.
https://www.siteone.com/pdf/sdsPDF?skuId=626428&resourceId=126429

 

That's good stuff but stupid expensive. Take a look at Green County Fert. RGS, more humic. 5 gal about $45. Not as refined as Carbon Pro but I like it.

 

Macros, Potassium/Magnesium help Color as well (at least with northern cool season turf) Urea all by itself is short lived.

 

Potassium would be a good option I feel like. Adding potassium may help with more N absorption or make it more efficient.

for every pound of N I apply I figure the turf will use 1/2 lb K

at the end of the day you can’t make the turf green up. warmer air/soil temps will be the cog that gets the wheel going.

 

Potassium would be a good option I feel like. Adding potassium may help with more N absorption or make it more efficient.

for every pound of N I apply I figure the turf will use 1/2 lb K

at the end of the day you can't make the turf green up. warmer air/soil temps will be the cog that gets the wheel going.

Yep. I quit spraying N in the spring. You can't tell any difference so we dropped that cost.

 

Urea is about 1/2 if not 1/3 the cost of granular. That's why I've got some room to add. But down here I wouldn't skip on the spring fert. TG pushes N so hard it's stupid. But they are delivering a product. They push it way early and very hard.

 

Urea nitrogen is low in cost. If you are really cheap, and feel you cannot raise your prices --(much)--apply urea with a spreader. Coated urea is better--but if your customers will accept quick green and do not notice the lack of green a few weeks later--go for it. If you can find a formula with about 14 percent as much potassium--that would be helpful.
Phosphorus is not usually needed--outlawed here in Michigan and some other states. We don't miss it.
If you want to use it, the small size granules of prilled urea are a bit difficult to spread.
It takes a bit of practice. Easy to burn the grass.
Calibrate carefully.
Beware of humid weather. Urea can form lumps that will remain on your spreader screen.

 

I would skip the bifenthrin insecticide--do not apply if there is no need--for it. Reduce your cost.

 

I don't know who your supplier is , but everyone has a micro mix. It's actually all we can use in our area June- Sept. Site One has one, And we pay around $1900 for a 250 gal tote. 2.5 gal around $23

 

Spreading granular urea with a spreader is cheaper because it is quicker than using sprayer and hose. Save the trouble and labor cost of adding gas to pump and dissolving urea in the tank.
If you are going to spray--why not include herbicide for weeds? That is probably the main customer concern, (along with crabgrass). Of course, there is a two times per year limit on 2,4-D--however you can switch to a non-2,4-D product like Lesco Eliminate for your third weed application. Same as Horsepower.

https://www.domyown.com/horsepower-selective-herbicide-p-14751.html

 

That's been the issue I've run into. One year I did do half rate 3way with urea and it was just too early for it to do anything. Moved the first half rate (half of max annual rate) to round after urea.

 

On horsepower am I still in the same boat when we spray urea we are literally on the first part of the upswing on the temp and green up curve.

 

Keep in mind Eliminate by Lesco contains triclopyr in addition to MCPA and dicamba. Use it when you need the power of triclopyr or when you are likely to reach the yearly 2 application limit of 2,4-D. You can always use 3-way in the spring and Eliminate for a late summer or fall treatments.
Of course, if you need more weed control power--use the maximum rate. And consider a surfactant.
Spot spraying, no limit. Good product for spot spraying, as the main cost of spot spraying is the labor. Cost of the herbicide is minor in spot spray situations.

https://www.siteone.com/pdf/sdsPDF?skuId=301522&resourceId=15559

Not for carpet grass nor St Augustine.

 

I hit with bifen, just to prevent the fire ants, and then I don't have to do anything for them until it wears off around Aug 1, by then i'm worried about damn armyworms.

I always add extra K now, and I rarely have any dollar spot when I go pretty well with that, so I don't have to hit with fungicide nearly as much.

I always add some micros, and 3% iron. I use Axilo Mix 5.

 

Good gosh I hope we don't have a repeat of last year on the army worms. Great for biz but took out a lot of our lawns before we could get there. I'm still planning on Bifen in round 3. Seems to help with general tuef insects. I've had a few customers tell me that their inside insects dimenished to almost nothing after a couple seasons of us doing this when they always had problems with ants, roaches, spiders etc.