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Spurge control warm turf warm temps

5.9K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  Rick1111  
#1 ·
Had a new customer call me back. His zoysia lawn was covered with spurge spotted and prostrate spurge.. really the only weeds he has but he has a ton. A month ago I blanket sprayed MSM turf on the lawn at max rate. Got a text today saying none of it has died. I’ll give him the bene of the doubt I’m going out there tomorrow but dang that’s hard to believe.
We hit 96 yesterday and were over 90 again today. Dicamba will get it as far as I can remember but I think that will smoke the turf in this heat. Open for suggestions.
 
#5 ·
It’ll be hard for me to tell. I’m going by homeowner telling me it never died. But it’s a homeowner so he may not know new growth from old dead but I would have figured he’d see the spurge die out at least within the week after the spray a month ago.
 
#7 ·
MSM 0.5 oz per acre. + 1.5-2 oz per acre Quicksilver(Carfentrazone). Apply with flat fan nozzles 40 gallons carrier volume per acre. Include 0.25% Nonionic surfactant.
 
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#10 ·
Yup! Spurge is a problem. A good pre-emergent 3 months ago would have been a help. Also a taller cut with a more dense type turfgrass. Spurge needs plenty of sun. Try to spray just before frost--which will kill it--even 40 degrees slows spurge down.
Reassure him it will be gone soon and that you will treat with a pre-emergent next July. (Free.)
Myself I would add a good surfactant.
This pic is in a parking lot with a bit of trash and a stone to mark the dividing line. Trimec on the right and Trimec plus yucca-based surfactant on the left.
Image
 
#15 ·
I ended up going dismiss NXT at .25 oz per k on the zoysia. With no surfactant. I don’t ever use one with Dismiss anyway. I took pics this time it’s just so dang hard to see and whoever cut his lawn cuts it short. IMO it’s better than last month when I blanket sprayed MSM Turf although he does not think so. But there’s still a ton of it.


Yup! Spurge is a problem. A good pre-emergent 3 months ago would have been a help. Also a taller cut with a more dense type turfgrass. Spurge needs plenty of sun. Try to spray just before frost--which will kill it--even 40 degrees slows spurge down.
Reassure him it will be gone soon and that you will treat with a pre-emergent next July. (Free.)
Myself I would add a good surfactant.
This pic is in a parking lot with a bit of trash and a stone to mark the dividing line. Trimec on the right and Trimec plus yucca-based surfactant on the left. View attachment 522336
3 months ago would have been what mid June? I’ve never really thought about putting down a mid season pre emergent… it’s crossed my mind but the benefit for the cost I’m not sure would work in my favor. Our last pre emergent is down by end March. Always wondered if it would really benefit me with one later pre ‘em round.
 
#13 ·
Dicamba alone + Carfentrazone is good. I find that warm season turf has issues with MCPP and to a lesser extent 24D. Spot spraying causes more issues vs a low rate broadcast spray that is done effectively. A chemlawn type gun is not an effective device for spraying Spurge.
 
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#17 ·
Well I got my first complaint but after the explanation she understood what I was doing. Yeah I pretty much turned her lawn into a Dalmatian with brown spots where spurge was. I spot sprayed her lawn. New customer another one that came in after all our pre em rounds. She said ok thanks for letting me know. She had sent pics over and I knew instantly what it was. Dismiss NXT spot sprayed on her spurge. Oh well. I told her I had a choice to let it keep spreading or actually do something about it this year since she missed our pre emergent rounds and I chose to do something about it.
 
#18 ·
I have found, on the yards where I know we are doing everything right (pre-emergent, post-emergent, appropriate water, good mowing height and fertility, etc), that when we see recurrent spurge or old world diamond there is a nematode issue. Here in Florida, we have a great nematode assay lab at UF in Gainesville. They perform the test, then give recommendations as to treatment. Unfortunately, the only nematicide I know that is labeled for residential turf is Indemnify, and it is prohibitively expensive.
 
#20 ·
This is an opportunity to add an extra cost application of a pre-emergent like Gallery--about when temperatures first hit 85.
An alternative is to just apply your regular crabgrass control--like prodiamine. Maybe do the ap twice--or just once double over--at the maximum allowed rate.
Remind the customer that only you (no other company) have data on soil temps, and which areas of the lawn are infested--so you can treat the exact infested areas next year.
Also, spurge is easy to kill when it is young and immature. Watch for it very carefully and try to spray a heavy duty broadleaf control (like Speedzone), about the week when spurge first appears. Maybe about the Fourth of July. When temps first hit 90.
Remind Ms customer that thin grass, dry grass and short cut grass is most likely to be invaded by spurge. Irrigate to keep the grass thick and tall. Next year's spurge is from seeds deposited in the soil in previous years.
Tall thick grass is less likely to have problems. Spurge seldom survives in shade.
Spurge can be hand pulled--like at our local botanic garden. There is usually one big tap root right in the center. Gather up the clump and yank it out. No worry if the root breaks off--spurge is an annual. Spurge does not survive the first frost. Roots cannot come back.
Sigh. I hate spurge.
 
#21 ·
This is an opportunity to add an extra cost application of a pre-emergent like Gallery--about when temperatures first hit 85.
An alternative is to just apply your regular crabgrass control--like prodiamine. Maybe do the ap twice--or just once double over--at the maximum allowed rate.
Remind the customer that only you (no other company) have data on soil temps, and which areas of the lawn are infested--so you can treat the exact infested areas next year.
Also, spurge is easy to kill when it is young and immature. Watch for it very carefully and try to spray a heavy duty broadleaf control (like Speedzone), about the week when spurge first appears. Maybe about the Fourth of July. When temps first hit 90.
Remind Ms customer that thin grass, dry grass and short cut grass is most likely to be invaded by spurge. Irrigate to keep the grass thick and tall. Next year's spurge is from seeds deposited in the soil in previous years.
Tall thick grass is less likely to have problems. Spurge seldom survives in shade.
Spurge can be hand pulled--like at our local botanic garden. There is usually one big tap root right in the center. Gather up the clump and yank it out. No worry if the root breaks off--spurge is an annual. Spurge does not survive the first frost. Roots cannot come back.
Sigh. I hate spurge.
Me too.....I hate spurge that is. :) I have a zoysia lawn that I started from plugs and that can sometimes be a problem because there are bare spots all over until it sets roots and starts to spread. These bear spots are an invitation to the weed world and they are more than happy to take advantage of it. This gives weeds just about a whole season to do their thing. Once they seed out just one time you have a 3 or 4 year problem even if you kill them off the next year.

I try to keep my lawn at 3 1/2" but I really can't irrigate because I'm on a shallow well and it has to make it with what mother nature provides. Even when the grass it thick and doing well I see spurge, lespedeza as well as black medic try to take over. I just started a pre-emergent program this season and I hope that will help to finally get it under control.

The problem with these summer weeds is they really get going when it gets really hot and by then it's not a good idea for most post-emergent products once it gets 90+ degrees. At that point, if you have the time hand pulling can be your best bet if you can get them before they seed out. Then if you follow up in the spring with a good pre plan hopefully you can get it under control after a couple years.
Even with cutting my grass to 3 1/2' all three of these weeds will pop out and get on top of my Zoysia and if I let them they will take completely over especially that dang spruge. That stuff once it makes it to the top of the grass will spread out in a circle 2' around in just a few days. Once it gets that big it has already set seeds. I try to pull it before it gets that far gone but it is a never ending battle because when you are pulling weed over here they are popping up over there.

I know for the professional it would be hard to put a man at any one job just to pull weeds so they mostly have to depend on some other kind of action. And what will work in one part of the country may not work in others. Sadly I never had the time or the money to get on any kind of program to keep these weeds at bay. Now that I am old and retired I have the time but still lack the $$ so I'll crawl around on my hands and knees for hours at a time pulling and burning weeds most of the time 7 days a week. My wife thinks I'm crazy and says I should find something to keep me busy.:D It has become my mission in life. Sometimes I go out the back door and head down to my shop just 200' from the house and I'll look down and spot some weed and before I know it two hours have gone by. She will pop out on the deck and yell, Hey you! I thought you were going to the shop to get a screwdriver and hammer to hand those pictures for me. At that point all I can say is yes sweety I'll be right there. I have to work very hard not to look down on the way back up.
 
#22 ·
One more comment, if it is not already obvious. Dense grass is better at combatting spurge. Ryegrass is not a creeping grass--no rhizomes--so perennial rye is more likely to be invaded. Same problem with turf type tall fescue--no rhizomes.
In both cases, an elite Kentucky bluegrass (such as Midnight) with strong rhizomes and a dense growth pattern is an important means to combat spurge--and also crabgrass.
Be sure to include bluegrass when sowing rye and fescue seed. Density is important--bare soil between clumps is an invitation to spurge.