It's on the bar gauge pitch and number of links. Example .058 3/8 72L

 

I'm going too assume that you know that you can sharpen the chains. You don't get a new one everytime there dull.

IMO, I'd get a none Safety chain. Get a semi/full chisel chain. Your Local Stihl dealer will be the place too buy one. They cut so much faster compaired too safety chains.

 

I'm going too assume that you know that you can sharpen the chains. You don't get a new one everytime there dull.

IMO, I'd get a none Safety chain. Get a semi/full chisel chain. Your Local Stihl dealer will be the place too buy one. They cut so much faster compaired too safety chains.

I'm a complete rookie in the chain saw world, no I do not know how to sharpen a chain saw chain so I ended up purchasing a new one. I went to the local STIHL Dealer with the bar and they matched me up with one. I believe it was a low-kickback one. Unfortunately my father used it when I was over his house helping to cut up some wood, well he failed epically and drilled it into the dirt. It now burns the wood rather then cut... I'm assuming it's because it is super dull and needs to be sharpened up.

 

Yes.

I'll hit the basics of sharpening one. I wont get into power sharpeners since I don't use them.

Get a small round file, the size really depends on the chain.

And

http://www.wildaboutbritain.co.uk/archive/data/500/chainsaw_blade.jpg

And this link basically has everything I was going too tell you in it already, so simply read it.

http://www.mowersatjacks.com/10-Steps-to-Sharper-Safer-Chainsaw.aspx

 

Please learn more about your saw before getting hurt. I'm not trying to be a jerk, these machines can be very dangerous/deadly especially when it comes to the inexperienced. Your local dealer should be able to show you some tips on sharpening and probably even give pointers on safety.

 

i'll drop some knowledge on you.

this is a low kickback semi chisel chain (will have 1 green link on the chain)

low kickback full chisel chain

notice how both the above have what looks like 2 rakers per cutter. this prevents kickback. the top one also has a round edge on the side of the teeth that makes it a semi chisel. the second has a square edge that is full chisel.

this is a Standard Full Chisel Chain (notice the yellow link, this means it is not low kickback)

this chart shows the cutter spacing

hope that helps you with chain identifications.

also you should learn how to sharpen the chain properly. you can get a lot of life out of the chain. also it is a lot better for the saw and bar to keep the chain sharp. also without experience chainsawing i would not recommend getting the standard chains stay with low kickback.

 

Please learn more about your saw before getting hurt. I'm not trying to be a jerk, these machines can be very dangerous/deadly especially when it comes to the inexperienced. Your local dealer should be able to show you some tips on sharpening and probably even give pointers on safety.

i'll drop some knowledge on you.

this is a low kickback semi chisel chain (will have 1 green link on the chain)

low kickback full chisel chain

notice how both the above have what looks like 2 rakers per cutter. this prevents kickback. the top one also has a round edge on the side of the teeth that makes it a semi chisel. the second has a square edge that is full chisel.

this is a Standard Full Chisel Chain (notice the yellow link, this means it is not low kickback)

this chart shows the cutter spacing

hope that helps you with chain identifications.

also you should learn how to sharpen the chain properly. you can get a lot of life out of the chain. also it is a lot better for the saw and bar to keep the chain sharp. also without experience chainsawing i would not recommend getting the standard chains stay with low kickback.

Thank you both, I am as safe as I possibly can be. Ear and eye protection at all times, I also wear a pair of STIHL Chaps and steel toe boots. I've used a saw all my life, just never went through the process of sharpening, I've always just wasted money buying a new one.

 

I've used a saw all my life, just never went through the process of sharpening, I've always just wasted money buying a new one.

Not sure how long your life has been but heck for me that would break the bank in one summer. It's not that hard once you learn, then the secret is to stay on top of it. I sharpen every fuel fill if not sooner. Tizzy brings up a good point about how sharpening will make the bar last a lot longer.

 

Not sure how long your life has been but heck for me that would break the bank in one summer. It's not that hard once you learn, then the secret is to stay on top of it. I sharpen every fuel fill if not sooner. Tizzy brings up a good point about how sharpening will make the bar last a lot longer.

yeah on a 290 you wont really notice a big loss in money on chains especially when you aren't doing a ton of tree work.

when you start doing a lot of tree cutting if you don't sharpen you can burn through 2 chains a day easy and when your dealing with 25" or larger bars those chains add up quick.

I usually touch up the chain every time I refuel the saw. takes 2 minutes. you can probably find videos on youtube that show how to do it properly.

 

The secret is to use good quality files. Buy stihl files they are made inb Switzerland and cut like butter! do not buy Oregon files from homedepot or lowes! They WILL dull after half a sharpening. You can use the same file 10 times if you use stihl files. Note that if you hit the ground or rock it will dull the file quicker. but seriously stay away from oregon's junk files.. You dont need a filing guide or some fancy pants stuff. Watch some youtube videos and once you get a file in your hand and make that first swip you`ll see how peaceful and zen shaprening oyur opwn chains is.

 

Either A. Get a sharpening guide. There are several styles available, rangin from a few bucks to hundreds of dollars. It will teach you the correct angles.

Or B. pay attention to the angles of a new chain, and attempt to recreate them on your old chain.

C. Buy a handful of loops of chain, and have your dealer or a local sharpening service fix your "rocked" chains.

Learning to file your own is very rewarding and cost effective. Saws will perform better and last longer if you keep them sharp.

NEVER USE A DULL CHAIN! The extra load on the saw, especially the clutch and drive sprocket will cause excessive wear. The fine powdery dust will clog the oiler and make it pack cooling vents and air filters. Learn to sharpen and keep them very sharp.

Good rule of thumb, if its throwing chips... It's sharp. If its slinging powdery dust shut it off.

3-5 minutes with a file between tanks of fuel is all it takes. (Unless you stick it in the dirt, or hit a nail etc.)

A lot of great info at arboristsite, unfortunately the sites been under attack from hackers and may be down.
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Your local stihl dealer should and probably will sharpen your chains for you for around $5-$10 each. You could always buy 5-6 and take them there