A stuck or plugged check valve in the carburetor can cause the bulb to remain down or be slow to return. A plugged fuel filter can do the same. Remove the filter and repeat the test. Check valves are non-serviceable and replacement of the valve body is the only fix. Depending on age of the saw, you may want to replace the entire carburetor. Diagnose first before replacing any parts.

 

Just happened to me. Husqvarna blower. Took my heat gun. Set it to lowest setting. Held it a foot away from the primer bulb. Eventually the bulb popped back out and was usable. Was it a vapor lock?

 

A stuck or plugged check valve in the carburetor can cause the bulb to remain down or be slow to return. A plugged fuel filter can do the same. Remove the filter and repeat the test. Check valves are non-serviceable and replacement of the valve body is the only fix. Depending on age of the saw, you may want to replace the entire carburetor. Diagnose first before replacing any parts.

I was hoping to get an answer from you--and that's sorta what I'm thinking. Will remove filter and give it a try, but I'm thinking this isn't the problem! Saw is in like new condition, great little saw, but cheapest carb I've seen on ebay is around $70--hope it's a filter!
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No the first thing you do is replace the primer bulb with a brand new one.
I mean, that's what I would do long before pulling the carburetor.
Because primer bulbs can get weak too.

 

I 2nd that Replacing bulb first

 

At this point, it's pure speculation since no testing has been performed. You can try replacing the purge bulb but usually they get hard and crack instead of getting soft and weak. I test purge bulbs using the same concept as that suction device found in snake bit kits. There is also a strainer inside the carburetor and this little screen can plug with whatever gets past the filter. Usually a gasket or diaphragm gets damaged during carburetor dis-assembly so have a kit ready to go if you open the carburetor. Your saw has a WT-589A carburetor and takes a D10-WAT G&D kit. Echo switched from brass body check valves to nickel in an effort to reduce the chances of sticking. Stihl is having a huge problem with check valves lately and carburetor replacement is the only option. I usually recommend the no-cost checks & tests first to rule them out. I don't condone parts replacement for the sake of parts replacement.

If you have the tools and want to do a few tests then watch this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOwhMFx8wp0

The procedure in the video shows how to test the check valves. In your case the check valves are mounted in the carburetor body and are not serviceable. Do not use carburetor cleaner on the check valves. In some rare cases an ultrasonic cleaner has helped stuck check valves but only if you already own one.

 

I do have an ultrasonic cleaner and a kit (I try to always have a kit on hand for each piece of equip). Hopefully today I can take a look at it--will remove filter 1st and try. Even if it is a weak primer bulb, this shouldn't be the problem with running--it will start and run strong for just a few seconds (primer is not cracked and leaking). Will let you know what I find.
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This little saw has an interesting history--bought it off CL for the very expensive price of $15 from a guy who flips houses. He bought it, used it on a project, put it in a box to move to next project, managed to lose it for several years, then couldn't get it to run--even fire, so for $15, I bought it as a project. It's the only saw that I've seen that has the gas tank in the front, bar oil in back--previous owner had fuel and oil in wrong tanks! Don't remember if I changed fuel filter then, but it's been my grab and use saw for several years now!
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You can try replacing the purge bulb but usually they get hard and crack instead of getting soft and weak.

This. And you'd easily feel the hard bulb when you push it in.

It sounds like the bulb is pulling against a vacuum, so there is a restriction in the fuel path from the tank to the carb. Could be the fuel filter. Could be the fuel line (collapsed or swelled shut). Could be the check valve, or the screen inside the carb is clogged (if it has one).

 

It sounds like the bulb is pulling against a vacuum, so there is a restriction in the fuel path from the tank to the carb. Could be the fuel filter. Could be the fuel line (collapsed or swelled shut). Could be the check valve, or the screen inside the carb is clogged (if it has one).

Those are great suggestions! Now, what is your test method(s) to determine exactly where the problem is located?

 

It was not fuel filter, line, or primer! Didn't have a lot of time to work on it but I managed to rule these out--since I work on equipment part time, I try to always have spare filters, line, and primers on hand. New of these 3 didn't change anything. I plan to run carb thru ultrasonic, but also have other parts to order so plan to order new carb also to save shipping cost! FYI, also tried with no filter!
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It was not fuel filter, line, or primer!
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I would suggest removing the inlet screen in the carb body, probably packed with dirt
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Thanks for suggestion, will give that a try!
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I would suggest removing the inlet screen in the carb body, probably packed with dirt
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Ok MowerMedic, I think you win the prize! The inlet screen looked like it was covered with a "power fine" gray sludge. Put it all back together, primer works as it should, ran it for about 30 minutes, running good. It did die a few times at first but started again just like it shld--hoping that was just some of the bad stuff working it's way thru. Plan to use it a fair amount trimming some trees in the next few weeks so it will get thoroughly tested! Thanks to all who had suggestions!!
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Should have read "powder fine" instead of "power"!!
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Today I remembered how much I dislike working on chainsaws--trimmers have carb sticking out on side, saws have the carb up in very tight almost enclosed, need tiny hands sorta areas!!!
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Ok MowerMedic, I think you win the prize! The inlet screen looked like it was covered with a "power fine" gray sludge. Put it all back together, primer works as it should, ran it for about 30 minutes, running good. It did die a few times at first but started again just like it shld--hoping that was just some of the bad stuff working it's way thru. Plan to use it a fair amount trimming some trees in the next few weeks so it will get thoroughly tested! Thanks to all who had suggestions!!
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Wait a minute. I should get the prize - see post #6. Just pickin'

Actually, there are several possible causes as to why the purge bulb does not return and you certainly found the cause. Good job!

 

Wait a minute. I should get the prize - see post #6. Just pickin'

Actually, there are several possible causes as to why the purge bulb does not return and you certainly found the cause. Good job!

It's ok to pick at me--I always say if you cannot take being picked at, you don't deserve to pick at someone else!! And I do appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share--and while we are taking about this--what do you think causes the screen blockage? In an earlier post, I told the history of this little saw, but while I've had it, it's been well cared for--I treat my tools almost like family--maybe better😏😏!
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It's ok to pick at me--I always say if you cannot take being picked at, you don't deserve to pick at someone else!! And I do appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share--and while we are taking about this--what do you think causes the screen blockage? In an earlier post, I told the history of this little saw, but while I've had it, it's been well cared for--I treat my tools almost like family--maybe better😏😏! Posted via Mobile Device

I just had the same white powder. My fuel filter looks like a white ceramic or stone or something similar. I wonder, since it's getting "past" the filter and it's the same color, could it be fine particles actually OF the filter from erosion? These things do vibrate an awful lot after all, and the fuel line to the filters are typically long enough to allow the filter to rest on the sides of the tank as the whole tries to vibrate your face off.

 

Ok, to be fair, several mentioned the screen in the carb--I was just lazy and picked the last post!! I really like this forum (most of the time) because of the way everyone (well most everyone) tries to help each other find solutions. It's saved me several times!!
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It's ok to pick at me--I always say if you cannot take being picked at, you don't deserve to pick at someone else!! And I do appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share--and while we are taking about this--what do you think causes the screen blockage? In an earlier post, I told the history of this little saw, but while I've had it, it's been well cared for--I treat my tools almost like family--maybe better😏😏!
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Feel free to pick back any time. I'm glad to help in any way I can. Regarding the screen blockage. I have pondered this for a while and deductive reasoning would say that the blockage is caused by matter that is small enough to pass the primary fuel filter but large enough to be stopped by the strainer (screen). Another possibility is that there is something dissolved in the gasoline and when allowed to sit while the machine is not being used will congeal and form a slime that will coat the strainer. I'm merely stating possibilities and if anyone else has the answer, please let us know. Could be regional differences in gasoline across the country. Some areas may have a problem and some may not.

Chainsaws are particularly prone to getting sawdust in the fuel tank during refueling and I have seen extremely small sawdust particles in the strainer not stopped by the primary filter. Obviously this warrants a new fuel filter. Just like oil & hydraulic filters, fuel filter micron ratings vary.

Every forum has a few sour grapes and they usually expose themselves on a regular basis. I have a lot of fun with them.

 

1st time I've had a carb screen stop up on my own equip. The filter looked like it was an original Echo filter--just don't remember if I changed it after buying the saw and finding bar oil in the gas tank. It's not been run bunches of hours, but several--actually enough for my son-in-law to require 15 stitches in a knee--oops!! There were no bigger pieces of trash, just very fine sludge. Uncle Knuckle, you mentioned fuel filters having different micron. I get filters here, there, and everywhere! Do you think some brand filters are better than others?
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1st time I've had a carb screen stop up on my own equip. The filter looked like it was an original Echo filter--just don't remember if I changed it after buying the saw and finding bar oil in the gas tank. It's not been run bunches of hours, but several--actually enough for my son-in-law to require 15 stitches in a knee--oops!! There were no bigger pieces of trash, just very fine sludge. Uncle Knuckle, you mentioned fuel filters having different micron. I get filters here, there, and everywhere! Do you think some brand filters are better than others?
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Aha, bar oil in the fuel tank. A liquid viscous enough to pass through the fuel filter but not enough to pass through the strainer? An additive in the bar oil that won't pass through the strainer? Just a thought.

Sorry to hear about your son-in-law.

I was afraid you were going to ask me about different brand fuel filters. My forgetter is working better and better these days but if I recall correctly, it was in one of the update schools hosted by Echo it was mentioned that the micron rating of some aftermarket fuel filters was higher compared to factory filters and they didn't mention any names. I know I heard it said but don't recall which manufacturer rep said it. Maybe they said that to boost sales of OEM parts.

Some people may disagree with me but when it comes to oil & air filters, especially when the engine is under warranty, I use OEM filters and OEM oil. Call me crazy but if there ever is a problem I know I did all that was in my control to prevent the problem. I guess what I'm saying is that you can't go wrong with OEM parts. I will say this, too, that I'm with you on getting some parts from the the lowest bidder. These lower cost parts usually go into homeowner grade trimmers, chainsaws, etc. I realize I didn't give you a definitive answer on the fuel filter question but that's the best I can recall.

 

Hey, I'm with you on the forgetter working--if only my equip worked that good!!

Yes, this saw came to me with bar oil and fuel in the wrong tanks--I even did it last fall--well put fuel in oil tank anyway😬😬! Last spring we had a small storm ( either twister or high straight line winds) come thru--put a huge tree down across road a few houses down. Fire dept needed a saw, I grabbed this one, gassed it up, and went running. Got it back home, fuel tank was empty, oil tank still partially full--of the fuel I had put in it--great on chain!! Again, only saw I've seen with bar oil in back, fuel in front!!

I'm guessing the carb screen has been partially blocked ever since I've owned it--but it's been a great runner!!
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Maybe the primer bulb was slow to return because you've been pumping straight bar oil thru it and the carb.

 

Maybe the primer bulb was slow to return because you've been pumping straight bar oil thru it and the carb.

No doubt it had bar oil in filter, primer, and carb--but not on my watch! I actually wonder if sticky bar oil could be pulled thru filter, but anyway, it's working great now!!
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So I have a Craftsman 2200 25cc straight shaft weedeater and my purge bulb stays in and comes out very slowly. So what do I need to do to fix this problem

 

Try starting your own thread and not resurrect 8 year old threads from the dead, you may get a better response...