Look online
Lucas, redline, amsoil.
What's this issue with high milage?
Personally I run full synthetic 20w50 motorcycle oil.
Definitely would not be using a conventional oil

 

High mileage specifically states over 75,000 miles thats why. Its a new mower.

 

Just run synthetic Rotella 15w40.

 

I get all of my Kawasaki oil from Amazon unless I am in a pinch, then I grab it from the local shop who works on my stuff (not the dealer).

 

Modern cars haven't used 10w 40 for some time, thats the problem. I was talking to the guy at the farm and fleet about it and he was saying something about using 0w 40 until I told him it was for my 2.3 Ford Lima motor. He agreed I needed 10w 40. In your case of a Kawi running in 100 degree heat of the summer I would only be running 20w 50.

 

I like to run Mobil vtwin 20W-50 full synth in the Kawasaki on my 636m. Easy to find and plenty of zinc. Designed for hot running v twin air cooled engines.

 

Where do you buy this from?

 

Does anyone know what this means? "The following engine oils are recommended. API Service Classification : SF, SG, SH, SJ or SL"

 

Did you google it?

 

Hi, Second time i went to Walmart since last year and all they had for sale was the high mileage full synthetic oil. I then proceeded to Advanced auto and same thing! No full synthetic 10w40, just a couple brands of high mileage. Same with TSC. Anyone know whats going on with the 10w40?
I used Castrol blend my first oil change on my 31hp Kawasaki. Its getting very hard to find
the 5 gallon jugs of the good full synthetic brands.
Do you guys run synthetic in your mowers? or conventional?
I can get a 5 gallon jug of regular Pennzoil conventional at HD for 23. Or a 6qt Chevron Havoline conventional for 25 at wally world.
Im in Pa. and we get very hot during the summer sometimes reaching near 100. So i want to use 10w40.

You want to buy full synthetic.
All you see is full synthetic, but with the words “high mileage”.
It’s just full synthetic with some extra additives. It isn’t going to hurt your lawn mower engine.

I don’t use synthetic oil.
I don’t run heavy weight oil in my mower engines.
Straight 30wt and have for a very long time. Most of my mowers are at around 2,000 hours with no problems. No reason to change what seems to be working just fine.

 

Kawasaki 20w50. I know its not a full synthetic, might be a blend, not sure honestly. I do know it doesn't burn,

Up until last season it also happened to be the cheapest option I could find. I was paying under $5 a quart. Went to the dealer I have always used and it was $10!

 

I also use Kaw semi synthetic oil in my mowers. 10W-40 or 20W-50. They are what Kaw recommends for weights. They cost less than any other oil in my area, and they are very good oils. They stay clean throughout their life span as well as, or better than anything else I have tried. Up until last year I was also paying under $5 per qt, but like everything else since biden took over, they have finally gone up some, but are still less than everything else.

 

Yup...Kawasaki Ktec... Semi syn with zinc.

 

 

Did you look at walmart for syntech 10w 40?

 

Almost all new cars have shifted to 0-20 oil or even thinner. So, most places do NOT carry the heavier oil. THE newest car we drive at my home is 2007 model (1964, and two 1999 are others). So, I get the heavy oil online now.

 

Is this the good stuff? Amazon.com: Kawasaki K-Tech SAE 10W-40 Engine Oil Quart #99969-6296 : Automotive

 

Yes, that or the 20W-50for hotter weather. Both are semi synthetic. Both are great. I can beat that price though at my local Exmark dealer.

 

Modern cars haven't used 10w 40 for some time, thats the problem. I was talking to the guy at the farm and fleet about it and he was saying something about using 0w 40 until I told him it was for my 2.3 Ford Lima motor. He agreed I needed 10w 40. In your case of a Kawi running in 100 degree heat of the summer I would only be running 20w 50.

Why would an engine that calls for 10w40 have an issue with 0w40? The viscosity at operating temperature is the same, and while 0w40 starts out thinner than 10w40 at room temperature, 0w40 is still thicker at room temperature than 10w40 at operating temperature.

Does anyone know what this means? "The following engine oils are recommended. API Service Classification : SF, SG, SH, SJ or SL"

API is the American Petroleum Institute. It publishes standards of oil specifications for gasoline engines (basically, it's telling you about the additive package) with a two letter code starting with an S, and the second letter incrementing up from A. API grade SA was published in 1930, and it basically describes HD30 oil. Each letter since that has marked an improvement in oil testing properties due to increased requirements from the automobile engine industry, but every new API grade of oil is specified to be backward compatible with engines designed to older standards.

SF indicates that the engine was designed to standards between 1979 and 1988. SL came out in 2000, and we're up to SP, which may be required in engines produced as early as 2020. But due to the backward compatibility, API grade SP oil is allowed to be used in an engine designed to the original 1930 API SA standard.

ILSAC is an international consortium that publishes similar oil standards, though the API standards are grounded in engine wear and performance, whereas ILSAC includes fuel economy and environmental concerns (heavy metal additives and oil change intervals come to mind) in their grading. And for that reason, ILSAC grades are not necessarily backwards compatible. ILSAC GF-6B is not acceptable for most engines made today.

 

Why would an engine that calls for 10w40 have an issue with 0w40? The viscosity at operating temperature is the same, and while 0w40 starts out thinner than 10w40 at room temperature, 0w40 is still thicker at room temperature than 10w40 at operating temperature.



API is the American Petroleum Institute. It publishes standards of oil specifications for gasoline engines (basically, it's telling you about the additive package) with a two letter code starting with an S, and the second letter incrementing up from A. API grade SA was published in 1930, and it basically describes HD30 oil. Each letter since that has marked an improvement in oil testing properties due to increased requirements from the automobile engine industry, but every new API grade of oil is specified to be backward compatible with engines designed to older standards.

SF indicates that the engine was designed to standards between 1979 and 1988. SL came out in 2000, and we're up to SP, which may be required in engines produced as early as 2020. But due to the backward compatibility, API grade SP oil is allowed to be used in an engine designed to the original 1930 API SA standard.

ILSAC is an international consortium that publishes similar oil standards, though the API standards are grounded in engine wear and performance, whereas ILSAC includes fuel economy and environmental concerns (heavy metal additives and oil change intervals come to mind) in their grading. And for that reason, ILSAC grades are not necessarily backwards compatible. ILSAC GF-6B is not acceptable for most engines made today.

So are you saying its ok to run 0w-40 oil in a kawasaki engine when the chart recomends 10w40? If you are Ima still not gonna do it.

 

Yup...but you can get it in different viscosities as well. Visit the Kawasaki Ktech website. It will give you temp charts to better zero in on what visc you want for your application. Ebay sellers offer pretty good pricing on 12 quarts. You can find it around $8/quart in dozens with free shipping.

 

Kaw straight 30W is not semi synthetic. Just be aware of that if getting synthetic or at least semi synthetic is important to you.

 

Kawasaki KTECH™ 4-Cycle Engine Oil | Kawasaki Engines USA

Kawasaki KTECH 4-Cycle Engine Oil provides maximum lubrication, reducing wear and ensuring optimal engine protection, performance, and longevity.

kawasakienginesusa.com

 

Good link to Kawasaki KTECH Oil Chart

By law, road use automotive oils now have only 800 parts per million ZDDP because higher levels cause premature catalytic converter failure. Kawasaki Oil and most other air cooled engine oils have 1500 ppm ZDDP.

ZDDP creates a film between metal parts to reduce metal on metal wear. It's not near as critical for automotive engines because they have larger budgets to afford roller cams.

ZDDP also raises the thermal conductivity of oil, making it carry more heat to lower operating temp. This is important because oil is the coolant in an air cooled engine.

Kawasaki Fully Synthetic high zinc 15w50 for the win.

 

@rlitman the reason a 0w40 would be a problem is because the bigger the difference from the winter to summer weight is like 0w40 vs 10w40.
To get this they add more viscosity improvers.
So your total oil% goes down because of more additives. Usually these oils shear out of grade faster as well.
The gentleman that runs straight 30 probably has the most shear stable oil. Meaning it stays in grade the longest.
I choose 20w50 because I used to ride motorcycles alot and buy it in bulk. And I like having a 50wieght oil in the heat It's also in my hydros right now.

 

@rlitman the reason a 0w40 would be a problem is because the bigger the difference from the winter to summer weight is like 0w40 vs 10w40.
To get this they add more viscosity improvers...

Except it doesn't work that way. You're not going to find a 0w40 in conventional oil, and synthetic oil naturally loses less viscosity as it is heated, so 0w40 synthetic is not an apples to apples comparison with 10w40 conventional, and I also have no doubt that 0w40 synthetic is more shear stable than straight 30 conventional too.

And what's the API grade on that straight 30? HD30 is all too often API SA, which was obsolete in 1930 and is a destroyer of modern engines.

 

This what I run in all my equipment

 

@rlitman
Sorry I was comparing both synthetic in my statement.
But if your comparing conventional 30wt to conventional 10w40 I garuntee the 30 is more shear stable. I'm not saying I agree with using 30wt.
I'm a 20w50guy.