I moved mine down. It's a Scag Tiger Cub with a 61" deck and has a large trim side that sticks out. I can still scalp quite easy with them down. I'm always riding the deck lift pedal. On the TC it doesn't have anti scalp wheels on the back corners of the deck like the Turf Tiger has. I called Metalcraft of Mayville and talked to one of the guys about getting oem brackets raw that they use for the TT and he sent me a set along with wheels and wheel brackets that bolt to the bracket that's welded to the deck. That helped some with the scalping problems I was having. For the most part I'm feathering the lift pedal all the time.

My post count is 1-007 LOL

 

i run them all the way up but i mow at 2" down here in the south.

 

I set mine so that they are approx. 1/2" above a smooth flat surface like cement, when the deck is set at the HOC I normally cut at. I know that's what the manu suggests, but I do it because that's what works best for me on the properties I cut.

For instance, I had them one hole higher than the manual suggests they should be for a while so that they didn't bump tree roots etc when moving along at a fast clip, but then I started noticing that some of the trees I have to mow around were starting to show distinct rings where the side of the deck closest to the tree was riding up on the higher turf close to the trunk, and causing a step/ring to form where the side of the deck away from the tree was dipping down until the gauge wheels on that side finally made contact with the ground. This was/is while mowing around some rather large maples that have turf tapering up towards the tree approx 3-5" higher than the surrounding turf level. Now that the gauge wheels are set at the 1/2" above the ground position, that ring/step problem no longer exists. I keep my center roller/gauge wheels at the highest position so that they don't leave a mark in the grass running down the center of the stripe like a Walker does with the single tail wheel, because I hate that look.

 

The point of anti scalp is to prevent deck from catching uneven surface. If your anti scalp wheels spend more time rolling then idle there's a problem.
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The point of anti scalp is to prevent deck from catching uneven surface. Just position them low enough to keep things rolling. If your anti scalp wheels spend more time rolling then idle there's a problem.Posted via Mobile Device

That's not correct, because they will roll simply from contacting/dragging the grass blades themselves without actually touching the ground. The gauge wheels on every mower I have ever owned has done that.

 

Yeah, mine roll even when all the way up just from contacting the grass. Even all the way up they are still below the deck a little. I just found myself doing more turf damage with them than they were preventing.

 

That's not correct, because they will roll simply from contacting/dragging the grass blades themselves without actually touching the ground. The gauge wheels on every mower I have ever owned has done that.

Then your mowing to low.

 

I think what Ridin' Green is saying is that the wheels will rotate even if they don't actually touch the ground just from running through the grass. I know mine will and I have them all the way up and never mow at under 2.5 inches.

 

I think what Ridin' Green is saying is that the wheels will rotate even if they don't actually touch the ground just from running through the grass. I know mine will and I have them all the way up and never mow at under 2.5 inches.

That's exactly what I am saying.

Then your mowing to low.

I am definitely not mowing too low, especially for Michigan weather/grass conditions. Generally I mow at 3" in the spring, then move to 3.5" as things get warmer during the summer, than back down to 3" in fall. If you re-read some of my other posts here, you'll see where I said how I set my guage wheels, and why. I NEVER set them to carry any deck, regardless of brand, but when they are set where they need to be to prevent scalping etc, they will rotate from contact with the grass blades alone. I know a lot of guys just move them to the highest setting. Many, if not most LCO's here around me do it, but I can always see where their deck has dipped around trees, or when going through low spots in the turf. That looks very unprofessional IMO.

 

that's exactly what i am saying.

I am definitely not mowing too low, especially for michigan weather/grass conditions. Generally i mow at 3" in the spring, then move to 3.5" as things get warmer during the summer, than back down to 3" in fall. If you re-read some of my other posts here, you'll see where i said how i set my guage wheels, and why. I never set them to carry any deck, regardless of brand, but when they are set where they need to be to prevent scalping etc, they will rotate from contact with the grass blades alone. I know a lot of guys just move them to the highest setting. Many, if not most lco's here around me do it, but i can always see where their deck has dipped around trees, or when going through low spots in the turf. That looks very unprofessional imo.

I apoligize then.

 

I was thinking about you while I was out moving the last couple of days Ridin' Green. I have a lot of trees on my accounts that slope up near the base too. I don't try to mow up against them with my mower...I use my trimmer for that. I'd need a wheel on the SIDE of the deck to not scalp there.

 

darryl-

I don't try to get right up to the tree trunk, but I cut up close enough to cut way down on trimming time. I'm talking about mowing around trees that may be 3-5' in diameter at the ground, and have swollen up the surrounding turf over the years out as far as 5' to maybe 7'. I sure don't want to be trimming that much grass around them, so I at least get to within 1' or so of the base. Also I am careful if I have to make a pass on the discharge side of the deck not to allow it to dip down and scalp since there's no skirt there to help in that regard.

Having the gauge wheels set correctly also helps when there are butress roots at or just below the surface that are running down and out away from the tree trunk.

 

I apoligize then.

No need to, but I appreciate it bro. We're good.

 

Ok...I get it Green.

But don't go around them with the discharge side facing them...that's a recipe for an "owie" when something gets tossed at the tree and it boucnes off and hits you in the face.

 

Ok...I get it Green.

But don't go around them with the discharge side facing them...that's a recipe for an "owie" when something gets tossed at the tree and it boucnes off and hits you in the face.

Oh yea, I know that's right, but that's another place having the MOD deck is nice.
I prefer not to mow around a tree that way, but if it helps keep the stripes looking their best, I do it.

 

When I get a new customer with trees like you mention, I try to convince them to mulch around them. Looks better and it's easier to maintain.

 

The point of anti scalp is to prevent deck from catching uneven surface. If your anti scalp wheels spend more time rolling then idle there's a problem.
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I agree with this.. I buy mine for 72" exmarks/ Toros on ebay. You can get sets with bolts, washers, nuts cheapest.

 

I set mine right on the ground. BTW, that is Bahia all over the deck.

 

Richard - Yeah well that's a little different. Obvious a brilliant fabricator came up with that idea.

 

Looks ghetto to me...
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When I get a new customer with trees like you mention, I try to convince them to mulch around them. Looks better and it's easier to maintain.

Good answer. I too do not mow too close to trees that are 'volcanoed' down from the trunk due to roots being too shallow. That is work for the trimmer.
I wish everyone knew how to correctly plant a deciduous tree then we wouldn't have to worry about scalping grass near them.

 

Looks ghetto to me...

Well thank you.

 

Well thank you.

Don't mention it...:laugh:

 

I set mine right on the ground. BTW, that is Bahia all over the deck.

I like the deck wheel. Wonder why you did not do both sides?

 

I like the deck wheel. Wonder why you did not do both sides?

I just haven't gotten around to it yet. Dixie set the right hand castor way out there and it would have to be moved in to get the deck castor to fit. I talked with a mower engineer at Husqvarna and he said it shouldn't cause any problems to move the castor in.