Skip the ryegrass with no irrigation and lots of sun.

 

If you want to buy retail locally from a box store, Scotts Turf Builder Kentucky Bluegrass Mix would be a good choice. I have used it and it has done pretty well in drought conditions.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotts-...uegrass-Mix-Seed-18269/203760929?MERCH=REC-_-rv_nav_plp_rr-_-NA-_-203760929-_-N

 

If quality is important--you need irrigation. I think you would be happy with bluegrass sod.
For instance a sod is farm near you. Supplier to Yankee Stadium.

http://www.deleasod.com/

Growing bluegrass starting with seed can be difficult. Bluegrass seed is slow to germinate and slow to establish 100 percent coverage. Let the experts at the sod farm do this part.

Ryegrass does fine in Jersey, but it prefers temps of less than 90. The older, cheaper types of perennial ryegrass can suffer disease--for instance, rust, red thread, gray leaf spot, and dollarspot.

Tall fescue (the expensive premium types) are suited to a few days of hot weather. The leaf blade is not always narrow. Tall fescues (even the lateral spread types)do not creep well. A prolonged dry spell may leave thin spots.

 

I do have a sprinkler system but don't want to put grass which needs excessive amounts of water.

 

Turf type tall fescue is easy to eastablish and doesn’t need “excessive” water. It will do well in NJ climate.

I wouldn’t use inexpensive seed sourced locally unless I knew exactly what was in it. Top quality cultivars with zero (as in 0.00) weed and other crop is going to be expensive, between $2 to $3 per pound. If the price doesn’t make you flinch a little, it’s likely not good seed.

 

To be frank, you are asking for something that doesn't exist (the perfect grass at a cheap price). Good luck with that. If you find it be sure to let us know!

To be realistic, most of the attributes you are looking for can be found in the low maintenance or low input varieties of Kentucky bluegrass. They want very little fertilizer and survive prolonged drought by turning brown in drought conditions, but it only takes ½ inch of water every two weeks to keep it alive.

One of the best and most used low maintenance Kentucky bluegrasses is Baron and you can get it here:

https://www.preferredseed.com/detail/index.cfm?nPID=46

 

If you currently have a Kentucky bluegrass lawn, I would advise you not to overseed with tall fescue, but if you have a tall fescue lawn, you should overseed with more tall fescue.

 

Currently my lawn is made up of many different brand mixed seeds. Would like to pick a type now and stick with it. Don't want to kill off what is there and start over. I am now very curious why some seeds are $2.00 lbs and others are $6.00. What exactly is it that makes it more money? If, I spend that kind of money on seeds then it looks like a waste to over seed a mixed lawn with it.

 

I am now very curious why some seeds are $2.00 lbs and others are $6.00. What exactly is it that makes it more money?

Just like most commodities, price depends on Supply, and demand, along with the quality of the variety of grass and the purity of the seed.

If, I spend that kind of money on seeds then it looks like a waste to over seed a mixed lawn with it.

I agree, you probably want to choose a variety you like at a price you are willing to pay.

 

How many square feet of grass do you have?

 

If, as you say, you like fine leaf blades and dark green color, Midnight is a good bet. Top-quality seed is dark in color, dense and disease resistant.
But Midnight often gets powdery mildew if grown in the shade.
The outside Pride "Supreme" mixture has more varieties, which reduces the risk of disease.https://www.outsidepride.com/seed/grass-seed/bluegrass-seed/

When varieties are named, you can look them up in the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program.
NTEP.org. Try to seed only varieties in the top 30 percent of the rankings. At least the top 50 percent.

Still, sod is the best and a whole lot quicker. You can see what it looks like in advance. A good sod farm will explain exactly what seed is contained in their mixture.

The best seeding date was August 15. Seed (if bluegrass) sown now will be slowed by cool temperatures at night. Your new bluegrass may be only a half-inch tall when frost and cold end the season about late-October.

If you sow seed on top of your present grass, cut it very short. Be sure to use a lot of seed--because the germination is lower when sown on top of old grass. Double the usual rate for new lawns is a good idea.

And be sure to use plenty of starter fertilizer for faster and thicker results. In fact, the Milorganite people suggest 14 pounds per thousand sqft.

 

I have been reading about dormant seeding. Any thoughts on this approach? Looks to be a good idea. The seed has all winter with the snow to sink in to the soil.

 

I test dormant seeded some small areas two winters ago and it worked very well.

 

Dormant seeding has worked for me. The only issue is that you can't use any preemergent when you dormant seed so if you are battling winter annuals and especially poa annua you are beat for a year.

 

You can use Tenacity or Scotts starter fertilizer with weed control, but it won't help with triv. or annua.

 

Last time pre-emergent went down was early June Dimension.

 

You would typically be putting a preemergent down in September for something like poa annua. If you don't have any you are good to go. You are also very fortunate because it sucks.

 

If you have irrigation, and if not on bare soil, but this is an overseed situation--I see no reason to wait. True, the weather may turn cool after it germinates. The new sprouts may be short by the end of the season in October, however you will have a 6 weeks head start.
Plant a sample on some bare soil so you will be able to see when germination has occurred. And another sample indoors.

Your tiny new seed sprouts may be almost invisible mixed with your old grass. It will be difficult to spot. Mow short for first 4 weeks to let more light penetrate to the new Midnight bluegrass. You want less competition from the old grass. Be patient--it will take time for Midnight to take hold and thrive.

My winter seeding test:
https://www.lawnsite.com/threads/dormant-seed-on-snow.475273/

 

Really upset. Ordered a 50 lb bag of Midnight KBG earlier this week. I just received an email saying they are out of stock. Now, I can not get the seeds down this weekend. Do you think If the seeds go down next weekend, the first week of October, they stand a chance of making it through winter here in the north east?

 

I'd say probably not. Plant some perennial rye and just kill it next year. Then plant the midnight. Start the whole thing earlier is all. Lesson learned.

 

I have no problem planting the seed in the spring but how can crabgrass be stopped and plant seeds. The soil has to be warm enough for germination but then the crabgrass can germinate as well? Do I just put pre-emergent down late? Considering how long blue grass takes to germinate the pre-emergent is going to go down very late.

 

Put your preemergent down late. Regular turf grass germinates before crabgrass.

You could also use Scott's starter fert with tenacity for a 30 day preemergent barrier that will allow your Kbg to germinate or just put down and water in some Tenacity for a 30 day barrier.

 

I appreciate all the guidance. This is one project where, if not done correctly will cost. One last question please. When would be the ideal time to dethatch and lay down the midnight blue grass seed in spring? Would I be looking for a soil temperature? I know the seeds will be fine in the cold soil but the birds would east them just sitting there.