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Why would you ever plant rye? ... And grass type specs guide.

22K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  KerbDMK  
#1 ·
I made myself a note of grass type specs below in colored text.

Have a few questions in here maybe someone would copy past this and reply throughout.

Grass Seed Types

- Turf Type Tall Fescue (10-14 days germination 50° - 65° soil temp, sometimes 21 if soil temps not). Is the best for full sun and can usually safely go dormant once established but might need some watering if drought is serious enough. If well-established (rooted from watering for year(s)) and mowed high like 4.5", it will usually avoid dormancy and even stay green all summer without sprinklers. TTF is good for shade (better than KBG but not as good as creeping red). Use creeping red only for dense shade. It's not uncommon for TF to suggest reseeding every few years for patchy areas because it's a clumping grass without rhizomes. I usually use vigoro RTF (rhizome tall fescue) which are new improved strains but they don't rhizome as aggressively as KBG but thus don't need aeration nearly as often to control thatch (although for compaction should core every couple years) and they supposedly only rhizome when left to grow like 10 inches.

-Creeping Red Fescue (10-14 days germination 50° - 65° soil temp, sometimes 21 if soil temps not). Most common of the fine fescues. Barely has a rhizome but does, is more of a clumping grass. Is the best grass for dense shade and requires little fert and watering in shade. Applying more than just moderate fertilizer and watering can cause disease. Doesn't have nearly as deep roots as TF and has very low sun tolerance. Don't plant in full sun because it will die without sprinklers but also can die from moist soil in shade. If in dense shade though, it requires extremely low water and fert amounts - it much prefers dry soil. Can be left unmowed but not sure if that will create fungus under matting affect it has.
If left unmowed and matting, might be difficult to mow if it stays matted and needs blower to fluff up many times while mowing.


-KBG (21-31 days to germinate, soil temp 50° - 65°). Is not as drought or shade tolerant as TTTF (and thus not nearly as shade tolerant as Creeping red fescue). KBG is not recommended for shade areas. KBG will need more water in sun vs TTTF and risky to let go dormant if planted in full sun (and needs more nitrogen than tf) but has rhizomes and fills in thick and has darker color than TTTF and can be cut shorter in cooler months, and TF needs reseeding every few years is recommended if patchy vs KGB rhizomes could fill in small patches.


- Perennial Ryegrass sprouts the fastest of all (5-14 days soil temp 50° - 65°), but generally I suggest not to even use it. PRG is not recommended for full sun says knowledgeables on forums, but others says it does well in full sun, but not nearly as drought tolerant as TTTF. It's well known that it grows so fast at first it can outcompete TTF and KGB in a mix (and then possibly die in full sun if not watered and thus leaving dead spots where TTTF/KBG would have been if not mixed with PRG). "studies have found that putting down 80 percent Kentucky Bluegrass and 20 percent Perennial Rye grass results in a lawn after one year of about 70 percent Rye". It has moderate shade tolerance no where near as good as TTTF or especially creeping red if dense shade. perennial ryegrass has the highest traffic wear-tolerance and can be mowed very short but probably only in cooler Spring and Fall. Worms particularly love eating it and can damage bad.

I read PRG perennial ryegrass grows well in full sun, and very moderate shade. But never should be planted in "shade". But when in full sun or even low shade, it needs water or it will die easy.

TTTF is by far the safest for full sun, especially if not watered. I cut TTTF lawns for years that have no sprinklers, I mulch mow them high like 4.5" and only every 10 days or 2 weeks sometimes and they stay green all summer and don't go dormant, and looks great for the most part. Most are aerated and seeded yearly but still, no sprinklers except for maybe 1/3 of the yard gets a hose and sprinkler after seeding.

PRG is said it must be watered in full sun, so you'd think it'd do okay not watered in partial shade, but even in partial shade is susceptible to shade stress problems (disease and eventually death). And still might die easily if in partial shade with sprinklers.

PRG seems to be the abandoned grass vs TTTF and KGB which scientists are much more focused on creating disease and insect and drought resistant verities with, and making them darker and denser and more uniform, and trying to make a true rhizomatous TTTF, etc - it seems like PRG is not even in the picture.

In other words, should you just never even consider rye unless you happen to want super traffic wear resistance that it has (and have sprinklers to actually keep it alive), and want something that can safely be cut shorter than TTTF and even KBG?
I understand PRG establishes very fast and am enticed to plant it if seeding late in the season like now, but there's no point if it's just going to die without sprinklers.

Also, what kind of adjustments would you make to the specs above? I fact checked everything as best I could by using multiple sources from articles or knowledgeable forum posts.

I also don't understand how it is said that TTTF requires as much water as KBG because TTTF has like 3X the depth of drought resistant roots. Is it only if you're cutting TTTF short at like 2.5" that it needs so much watering? As I mentioned I know of many TTTF lawns that get no sprinklers and are fine and green all year if mowed high.
 
#2 ·
TTTF lawns really took a beating here this summer. Prolonged periods of 90+ temperatures caused death in sunny areas on many, many lawns. Even with watering there was significant thinning and plant loss.

The local land grand university is recommending switching to zoysia due to its ability to withstand the hot dry conditions mentioned above in addition to needing less fertilizer, mowing and herbicides once established.

There are a few perennial rye lawns in the area. What a pain to cut! Double or even triple the growth rate of fescue and the grass is always wet, even late in the day.
 
#4 · (Edited)
There are just too many variables to take into account when choosing the single best variety of grass to grow in the northern half of the US. That's why grass mixtures are so commonly recommended. If you have a mixture of several varieties of grass at least one of them should thrive in any given area of your lawn.

To find a good seed mixture for your zip code try this: https://www.seedsuperstore.com/seed-express.

You can also substitute for some of the varieties and come up with your own custom mixture if you'd like.
 
#7 ·
What you are referring to is a "blend" of three kinds of tall fescue. A "mix" is a combination of different types of grass, like bluegrass with fine fescue and rye. In either case you only want varieties of grass that have been proven to be suitable for your local area in your mix or blend.
 
#6 ·
I think a top-quality perennial rye would do fine in New Jersey. I don't care for the Vigro brand much--Depot stuff.
You want the newest and best varieties of rye--GLS types (gray leaf spot resistant).

I am not sure that the fine fescues are really a whole lot better than the blues and ryes in a shade situation. I have used shade mixes with fine fescue in my shady back yard many times--but as of now, it is mainly bluegrass--you would be hard-pressed to find a blade of fine fescue. If fine fescue really was better, you would find a band of fescue around most trees with bluegrass outside the band.

In my last year experiments, in a shady part of a vacant lot, fescue did not thrive in the shady area. I will take a closer look to see what survived best--during the next few days.
 
#8 ·
kind of getting replies conflicting with what multiple articles and other forumers say. ie perennial rye in sun. Sure, but you better have sprinklers. But I read not to use rye in shade. Also about rye in a mix I read "studies have found that putting down 80 percent Kentucky Bluegrass and 20 percent Perennial Rye grass results in a lawn after one year of about 70 percent Rye".

TTTF seems to be the most bullet proof and versatile in NJ. It seems like TTTF is the main strain focus for seed developers to get it to be as sun and shade tolerant as possible and disease and insect resistant and hopefully one day it will have a true rhizome better than the alleged RTF (repairing tall fescue). I understand in warmer TN, TTTF took a beating even with sprinklers, mowing it high like 4" would also help it though but too hot is too hot.

I don't trust mixes of KBG and fine fescue and TTTF "for shade". What that means to me is most of the mix will probably die and end up with patches with only the strain that should have been %100 planted. I know there are other variables though besides just how many hours of sun an area gets, or how much sun is actually getting though leaves if the area doesn't actually get direct sunlight at all i.e under dense trees. Moisture and sprinklers or not
would make a big difference because allegedly creeping red is great for dense shade but hates moisture, and hates regular amounts of nitrogen. It's weird, it's like if a grass type doesn't do well in full sun without being irrigated regularly, you'd think it'd be ok in partial shade without watering but that's apparently not the case.

I keep reading stuff like this for shade making me weary of not using KBG in shade.
Tall fescue Fine fescue Perennial rye Kentucky blue
Shade tolerance
good excellent poor poor

http://healthylawns.suffolkcountyny.gov/lawn/overseeding.htm

I have always used a mix of TTTF and creeping red for shady areas, the vigoro, which is mostly creeping red (like %50).
Strangely, this here "dense shade" mix is With 75% Tall fescue grass seed and 25% Fine Fescue Grass Seed* this grass will tolerate densely shaded areas.
http://fescue.com/info/denseshade.html#.WARq2YszVwE

I don't know off the top of my head what % is what in the current vigoro sun and shade mix, I know it's like %50 creeping red, but strangely, if I google image search Vigoro sun and shade mix labels, I see all different types as if they kept changing it. One label says something around %53 creeping red and then %15 of a PRG, %10 of a PRG, %10 of a KBG, %10 another PRG. (all except the creeping red I would think not to plant in shade from everything else I've been reading).

A different label of the same vigoro sun and shade says around %35 creeping red, %20 baron KBG, %15 PRG, and then %10 %10 %10 of other PRGs.

And a different label says around %20 creeping red , %15 chewing fescue (probably a fine), %14 %14 two PRGs, %10 of a KBG, %6 PRG, %5 KBG.

I guess there's just so many strains out there that some PRG and KBG are more acceptable for shade. Hopefully these labels from google image searches are older strains that have been phased out i.e there's becoming a much smaller selection of more versatile grass types hence why some are suggesting rye and KBG (apparently new improved strains) for shade areas.

I would love to plant KBG everywhere since it rhizomes but probably shouldn't though.
I like the vigoro because I have had god results with it. or have? I ask have I, because in the same season it's grown, it comes up fantasticly so I think it's fine, but the next season seems to thin out a lot , but there's usually not a regular irrigation schedule for the next summer when it starts thinning out or drying. I wouldn't expect any strain or brand of grass to withstand a hot summer after just being planted the Fall before and having such shallow young roots though. I never buy the scotts because all I've found is I'm paying %50 of it coating material of fertilizer/moisture holder to help it sprout. The stuff in the landscape supplies are loose unbranded bags and like 2X the cost of vigoro. I don't mind spending what is necessary but on the other hand, I don't think vigoro is pushing garbage, to have the huge contract with home depot (and it's not allowed to be sold in lowes are are many products each carries so you can %10 beat them all day on identical products), they sell it cheap and high volume for same profit as paying a landscape yard like 2X the amount.
 
#9 ·
Perennial rye is a great grass, I use alot of it and recommend blends with a majority of it to the landscapers I fertilize for( generally 75% rye 25% blue, 100% rye after Oct 1) mostly because of the quick germination, You can’t beat 5-7 day germination. It grows fast so it gets mowed quicker and matures much faster. I do a fair amount of aeration seedings in the fall and not many people have irrigation in my area ( only multi million dollar homes generally) so one good rainfall if the temps are right and you’ll have growth with an aeration seeding. I can’t expect clients with large lots and no irrigation to water so it just has its place. It does well in sun/ shade and as long as it rains once every 7/10 days it looks good all summer depending on soil type. I’m in ct and we usually only have a few heat waves a year 88+ for 3 days or more so it depends on the weather to. If the yard is already a mono culture of a different grass type I will always recommend seeding with the same grass for uniformity purposes but generally that’s the only reason I’d put all blue or tall fescue. I’ll recommend tttf if the client has very Sandy soil so it doesn’t burn out every year to. All the grass types have their place.
 
#10 · (Edited)
i have to go back and re read what I gathered about each grass type and I'm sure there's updates to be made.

I still don't see a place for rye though, yes very fast germination , maybe less brown patch disease, but if gets too hot it'll go poof, it's just not as drought tolerant as TTTF, really, zoysia is the king of full sun with or without irrigation but that's a much different approach than cool season overseeding/patching.

and in shade a certain TTTF would be better than rye, or a fine fescue but not everyone likes the way FF sort of mats down even if not left as no-mow.
 
#11 ·
cultivars within each type can make a huge difference too. A lesser TTTF might die in full sun or humid summer but a more drought tolerant and brown patch resistant once might not.

Also, oddly because you read the best type of soil for grass is loamy (a bit sandy/loose so roots can reach deeper) but certain lawns I mentioned do fine in full sun without irrigation, but some of them are soil very much on the clay side (which holds moisture well but just doesn't let roots go very deep) so it seems to balance out, also cultivar selection probably a factor.

I like zoysia for full sun in transition zone type climate. It takes care of itself, a lot of the 'nicest' greenest lawns are a never ending process.
 
#12 ·
cultivars within each type can make a huge difference too. A lesser TTTF might die in full sun or humid summer but a more drought tolerant and brown patch resistant once might not.

Also, oddly because you read the best type of soil for grass is loamy (a bit sandy/loose so roots can reach deeper) but certain lawns I mentioned do fine in full sun without irrigation, but some of them are soil very much on the clay side (which holds moisture well but just doesn't let roots go very deep) so it seems to balance out, also cultivar selection probably a factor.

I like zoysia for full sun in transition zone type climate. It takes care of itself, a lot of the 'nicest' greenest lawns are a never ending process.
roody,

Glad to see you have some time to send your informative posts. :clapping:
 
#13 ·
I made myself a note of grass type specs below in colored text.
Have a few questions in here maybe someone would copy past this and reply throughout.
Grass Seed Types
- Turf Type Tall Fescue (10-14 days germination 50° - 65° soil temp, sometimes 21 if soil temps not). Is the best for full sun and can usually safely go dormant once established but might need some watering if drought is serious enough. If well-established (rooted from watering for year(s)) and mowed high like 4.5", it will usually avoid dormancy and even stay green all summer without sprinklers. TTF is good for shade (better than KBG but not as good as creeping red). Use creeping red only for dense shade. It's not uncommon for TF to suggest reseeding every few years for patchy areas because it's a clumping grass without rhizomes. I usually use vigoro RTF (rhizome tall fescue) which are new improved strains but they don't rhizome as aggressively as KBG but thus don't need aeration nearly as often to control thatch (although for compaction should core every couple years) and they supposedly only rhizome when left to grow like 10 inches.

-Creeping Red Fescue (10-14 days germination 50° - 65° soil temp, sometimes 21 if soil temps not). Most common of the fine fescues. Barely has a rhizome but does, is more of a clumping grass. Is the best grass for dense shade and requires little fert and watering in shade. Applying more than just moderate fertilizer and watering can cause disease. Doesn't have nearly as deep roots as TF and has very low sun tolerance. Don't plant in full sun because it will die without sprinklers but also can die from moist soil in shade. If in dense shade though, it requires extremely low water and fert amounts - it much prefers dry soil. Can be left unmowed but not sure if that will create fungus under matting affect it has.
If left unmowed and matting, might be difficult to mow if it stays matted and needs blower to fluff up many times while mowing.

-KBG (21-31 days to germinate, soil temp 50° - 65°). Is not as drought or shade tolerant as TTTF (and thus not nearly as shade tolerant as Creeping red fescue). KBG is not recommended for shade areas. KBG will need more water in sun vs TTTF and risky to let go dormant if planted in full sun (and needs more nitrogen than tf) but has rhizomes and fills in thick and has darker color than TTTF and can be cut shorter in cooler months, and TF needs reseeding every few years is recommended if patchy vs KGB rhizomes could fill in small patches.

- Perennial Ryegrass sprouts the fastest of all (5-14 days soil temp 50° - 65°), but generally I suggest not to even use it. PRG is not recommended for full sun says knowledgeables on forums, but others says it does well in full sun, but not nearly as drought tolerant as TTTF. It's well known that it grows so fast at first it can outcompete TTF and KGB in a mix (and then possibly die in full sun if not watered and thus leaving dead spots where TTTF/KBG would have been if not mixed with PRG). "studies have found that putting down 80 percent Kentucky Bluegrass and 20 percent Perennial Rye grass results in a lawn after one year of about 70 percent Rye". It has moderate shade tolerance no where near as good as TTTF or especially creeping red if dense shade. perennial ryegrass has the highest traffic wear-tolerance and can be mowed very short but probably only in cooler Spring and Fall. Worms particularly love eating it and can damage bad.


I read PRG perennial ryegrass grows well in full sun, and very moderate shade. But never should be planted in "shade". But when in full sun or even low shade, it needs water or it will die easy.

TTTF is by far the safest for full sun, especially if not watered. I cut TTTF lawns for years that have no sprinklers, I mulch mow them high like 4.5" and only every 10 days or 2 weeks sometimes and they stay green all summer and don't go dormant, and looks great for the most part. Most are aerated and seeded yearly but still, no sprinklers except for maybe 1/3 of the yard gets a hose and sprinkler after seeding.

PRG is said it must be watered in full sun, so you'd think it'd do okay not watered in partial shade, but even in partial shade is susceptible to shade stress problems (disease and eventually death). And still might die easily if in partial shade with sprinklers.

PRG seems to be the abandoned grass vs TTTF and KGB which scientists are much more focused on creating disease and insect and drought resistant verities with, and making them darker and denser and more uniform, and trying to make a true rhizomatous TTTF, etc - it seems like PRG is not even in the picture.

In other words, should you just never even consider rye unless you happen to want super traffic wear resistance that it has (and have sprinklers to actually keep it alive), and want something that can safely be cut shorter than TTTF and even KBG?
I understand PRG establishes very fast and am enticed to plant it if seeding late in the season like now, but there's no point if it's just going to die without sprinklers.

Also, what kind of adjustments would you make to the specs above? I fact checked everything as best I could by using multiple sources from articles or knowledgeable forum posts.

I also don't understand how it is said that TTTF requires as much water as KBG because TTTF has like 3X the depth of drought resistant roots. Is it only if you're cutting TTTF short at like 2.5" that it needs so much watering? As I mentioned I know of many TTTF lawns that get no sprinklers and are fine and green all year if mowed high.
Seeing that you're in New Jersey, I guess you're inquiry is in to the Pros & Cons of the most common Cool Season lawn turfgrasses.
See the following for reference.....
And....