Looking for an efficient, reliable, heavy duty, decent on hills zero turn to maintain ~20 acres (mix of horse pastures and residential lawn). My research points me to Scag Turf Tiger2 vs Kubota Z781. Both with decent dealer support close to me. (I've ruled out JDs due to no EFI engine options). I have thus far trialed a Scag Tiger Cat2 (52") and the Kubota Z781 (60"). I've decided on the 60" deck size. Both were comfortable for me to operate, with Scag producing a noticeably better cut, but Kuobta felt more stable/powerful on hills. The Scag TT specs suggest it to be more kubota-like in terms of lower center of gravity/power, and assume it would provide as nice (if not nicer) cut than the TC.

What else should I be considering in deciding between Scag TT2 and Kubota Z781? Would love to hear from those with experience with one/both. Thanks in advance!

Engine on Kubota - Kawasaki 29.5hp FX
Engine on TT2 - a little lost on which to pick

Take a look at the Gravely 660 with KAWI 38 HP EFI. I run a 672 that I like a lot;
also the Toro 4000 series are very good.

 

Thanks, though I'm not aware of Gravely dealers near me...

 

I love my 781 but I’m sure the tt2 is a heck of a machine as well. Can’t go wrong with either imo

 

The TT2 is much heavier and more stable than the TC2.

 

That's what I thought. I assume it gives a cut that as nice (if not nicer?) than the TC2? i love the stable feel of the Kubota but the cut of the TC2, if I could have a machine that combined the two that would be win-win.

 

Why would you not consider a 72” deck with 20 acres to maintain? After previously owning A 60” and then going to a 72”, I would never go back to 60” deck.

What mower are you currently running? How familiar are you as to what to look for when purchasing a new mower?

Below is a list of things to consider when purchasing a new mower. This list is from a thread I started on 10/05/2021.

There are many things to consider when choosing a mower that are easily overlooked. I'll list a few, in no certain order. This list is by no means exhaustive, you may have more that you find important that many might overlook, if so please add.

Engine :

• Type of engine, carbureted or EFI/DFI.
• How easy and convenient is it to change engine oil and hydraulic oil and

filters? What are the hourly oil change intervals. 100, 500, 1000 ?
* Adequate horsepower for deck size.

Deck :

• Stamped or Fabricated deck?
• How many bolt heads are exposed under deck to try to scrap around?
• How hard is the deck to raise and lower with foot and leg pressure?
• Is deck height adjustment fast snd simple or of poor design?
• Type of baffling under deck, adjustable or stationary.
• Pulley covers on deck, ease of removal to clean top of deck.
• Width of discharge opening.
• Blade removal bolt, from top or bottom of deck?
• How many grease zerks and where are they located?
• Trim side of deck visibility from operator seat.

Hydralics :

• Homeowner, Commercial, or Industrial pumps?
• Smoothness of hydralics. Type of hydraulic pumps and wheel motors.
• Length of travel of control arms.

Suspension :

• Type of seat and suspension. Seating position, is it to high or to low?
• Vertical suspension only or fore/aft included
• Type of suspension system if any on frame, four corner front and rear, flex forks, etc.
• Wheelbase of mower, is it long or short?

Miscellaneous :

• Number of cup holders, storage compartment.
• Operator display console, what's included, fuel gauge, tachometer, etc.
• Fuel capacity.
• Available options for mower

Service and Warranty :

• Dealer service if needed or will you do your own maintenance if necessary?
• Length snd type of Warranty, reputation of manufacturer, parts availability.

Intended use :

• Type of terrain, flat, slopes, hills, etc.
• Type of grass, manicured lawns, field grass, overgrown grass and weeds.

These are a few things I will definitely consider before a future purchase. No mower will have everything that the end user might desire, but many are a lot closer than others.

It's only natural that we get accustomed what we currently own and operate and therefore think it's the best. But if we look realistically at the pros and cons, likes and dislikes of the machines we operate it can help us make wiser choices in future purchases.

 

Thanks so much for this! Exactly what I need. Things I didn't know that I didn't know. Not considering 72" because of the storage space, and because a 72" would not be able to go between some of the closer spaced trees and the fence line (this would create a good amount of work to weed wack).

My current is a 54" JD lawn tractor (s.l.o.w.!!) + JD tractor with rotary cutter attachment for the taller stuff. I did consider the JD Z900's, but don't like that only carbureted engines are available (the sales person they sent to me is also less than impressive in his knowledge and people skills, which also blunted my enthusiasm for their machine).

I am not super machine savey, so depend on the vendor for all repairs/servicing. No complaints on that end from JD, but have heard raving reviews from my area re the Kubota/Scag service folks (including loaners if one's machine ends up in the shop).

The type of terrain and type of grass is highly varried with all of the above part of the 20ish acres. I realize I will probably still need my rotary cutter for some areas, but would love to get as much of the 20 acres looking Zeroturn good as possible.

What would you choose if between Kubota781 and Scag TT2 (and why)? Also, pros/cons of EFI vs DFI?

 

Help me understand wheelbase vs "length" (assume length is the total length, with wheelbase something shorter)? Attempting to make a comparison chart to help make my decision (yes, I'm one of those ppl! ), and realize that Kubota lists wheelbase (50.9") and Scag lists "length" (85.5"). Anyone know the wheelbase for a TT2 and TC2?

 

wheelbase is center of rear tires to center of front tires.

 

I love Kubota (quality, service, warranty, overall phenomenal machines across the spectrum, etc.) I have a phenomenal dealer near me that has treated me so well that it's difficult at times to not choose a Kubota over other brands just because of their service.
That being said:
My vote is the Turf Tiger out of the choices you listed. If I was in your shoes, the engine i'd select would be the kubota diesel or either of the larger vanguard engine options.
Sounds like a fun shopping trip. I'm jealous
good luck
g

 

Out of the two choices I'd go TT 72 all day!

 

If your budget allows it may want to consider a 994 diesel. Depends on how hilly the property is. Sips fuel at a gallon per hour or less. Or go all the way to a 997r with 38hp.

 

Curious, how long did it take to mow the 20 acres with the 54 jd tractor? 3 days?

 

Of the options you listed, there's no question for me...........not even close to one- get a TT II with a BB EFI and 72" deck. Either cut down a few tress that are too close to a fence etc, or just do a little more trimming than you originally wanted. I run a 60" machine, but for that kind of acreage a 72 is the ONLY thing that makes sense with a normal ZTR. The TT II is a proven design and an awesome mower.

 

Of the options you listed, there's no question for me...........not even close to one- get a TT II with a BB EFI and 72" deck. Either cut down a few tress that are too close to a fenbce etc, or just do a little more trimming than you originally wanted. I run a 60" machine, but for that kind of acreage a 72 is the ONLY thing that makes sense with a normal ZTR. The TT II is a proven design and an awesome mower.

Grasshopper with the front hung mower.

 

Kubota been killing it just as long as scag. Id say either one would be just fine but the 60" deck is certainly not enough for that property.

A kubota diesel would be my suggestion.

 

I don't remember which thread I meant to post this in, so I'm posting it in both. lol

Are you going to be the main operator?

How long do you plan on keeping it?

We have a bunch of the 37 HP Vanguard air-cooled. I used to buy ZTRs with diesels, but for a few reasons I stopped. One being I was not getting the longevity without expensive repairs...BUT I had employees running them. Also, I am cycling my mowers on a roughly 3 year time frame. I used to run them into the ground but that was costing me more than I thought I was saving.

EFI may have changed the numbers quite a bit, but used to be a liquid cooled cut fuel usage by about half of what an air cooled would use. And a diesel would cut by about half what an liquid cooled would use. If I was the only operator (for the most part) and I was going to keep it for a relatively long period, I would go diesel.

The reason I went with the Turf Tiger was the shaft drive. It transfers power to the deck so much more efficiently than belts do.

I keep forgetting this, but the one thing I hate about the Vanguards is they start like $hit in anything under 40-45°. They shouldn't, but they do.

 

I will also add that Scag's deck has a sterling rep. Kubby is not in the same league for cutting under any and all conditions, especially their more recent decks.

 

Do the Deere Kaws still burn oil like gas for the first 150 or so hours?

I don't remember all the details, but it was stupid how much they went through until we switched to 15W-40. Or maybe it was 20W-50? They claimed it was normal to go through half a quart per cylinder per 8 hours. I think, whatever it was just ridiculous.

 

Do the Deere Kaws still burn oil like gas for the first 150 or so hours?

I don't remember all the details, but it was stupid how much they went through until we switched to 15W-40. Or maybe it was 20W-50? They claimed it was normal to go through half a quart per cylinder per 8 hours. I think, whatever it was just ridiculous.

That's what Kohler told me when mine had to be replaced at 47 hours. They say it is 8 oz per hour though IIRC (or maybe it was 8 oz per cyl per hour as you stated, though you were talking about Kaw. My Kaw's have never burned oil, but all my Kohlers have (OHV modern Kohler Command engines that is. The old K series cast iron engines were awesome)

 

Im run either 10W-40 or 20W-50 Kaw semi synthetic im mine for the last many years and really like it. Any straight 30W or multi vis 30 would always use just a little between changes...........maybe 4-5 oz total?

 

We typically go with 15W-40 on the commercial Kawi's and Kohler's. 10W-30 and 30W just seems to run through these engines like water especially during and just after the break in period. I have a couple customers running Mobil 1 and they are most pleased.

 

First couple of changes on my 994 I used JD plus 50 II 15W40 but last couple of changes I switched to the 0W40 full synthetic. Helps with startup in the cold mornings.

 

Haha! Sounds super lightweight tundra.

Id bet if you put a scag next to a kub and cut grass you wouldnt notice any quality of cut difference. They are both going to leave a nice cut. I looked at a scag tt 2 and decided against it due to the uncomfortable ergos. For whatever reason it felt terrible compared to the toros and deeres.

I would also note that there have been a lot of new scag ownes who are experiencing problems with brand new mowers. It happems with any brand but seems like ive seen a lot of scag issues in the past 2 years.

My 212 and 214 with k series all burn oil, but theyre also old. My new kawis used to burn a little. Theyre all broke in now and running 20w50 and so far no noticable oil loss.

 

I have a direct injection Yanmar in my 4115 and it starts extremely fast even in the winter.

 

Ridin you see there's now a turbo kit for the 1025 Yanmars? 2 grand but tempting...I haven't seen how it mounts to see if it can fit on my 994....for those times where I've got really tall growth would come in handy.

HydrosPlus Turbo+ for the John Deere 1R and 2025R Second Gen

The HydrosPlus Turbo+ kit is a first of its kind solution that not only includes everything you need to add a turbocharger, without the need to make any permanent modifications to your machine, but it also adds easily serviceable emissions equipment. The result is a more powerful, and more fuel...

hydrosplus.com

 

We've been running 1025s on sidewalks for 9 years-10 years.

No block heater, they've fired up every time no matter how cold.

 

I agree with you. We have several customers with multiple 1025R's and some schools with 1023E's and they have commented that the tractors fire up every time in cold/snow removal type applications.

I guess I should clarify my earlier point, they have a cold natured kinda start up. Seems to be helped by cycling the glow plus 2 or more times before cranking. Just my opinion. Certainly everyone's conditions can be different.

 

Personally, I don't think the carb vs EFI is enough to make me discount one mower vs. the other. My carb motors run just as good as my efi motors and they are easier to work on. I think the scag will produce a better cut. Ferris will have a better ride. JD also produces a nice cut. For 20 acres I would be looking at a 72" cut.

 

Aint no way the efi burns half the gas.

 

Who said it did?

 

They have glow plugs? Lol

 

Yes sir

Lol. At least they don't have a decompression leaver like the early 650 with their 2 cylinder Yanmar.

 

One can easily tell the difference between a Kubota cut and a Scag cut with the Velocity Plus deck....Kubota builds a lot of nice equipment, but cutter decks are not one of them...great machines, badly designed decks.

 

Pics?

 

Of what? Poor quality cuts?

 

Side by side comparison.

 

Look at any Kubota cut, don't need a side by side, very apparent. I think the old ones cut much better.