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HolyMoly!

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello,
First post!

I have an Echo SRM-225. I went to do my normal trim routine last weekend, the trimmer fired right up like always but when I squeezed the throttle it sounded like the trimmer was in a bind. The head would not spin. The engine tried to rev but it sounded as if something was wrapped around the head, keeping it from spinning.

Its not spinning freely and its not the engine bogging down because of a fuel issue. You can hear that the engine is getting the fuel, the cylinder is burning it but something wont let it rotate.

I removed the head completely, still same problem. I pulled the flex shaft out completely and still the same problem. Next step would be to take the shaft and trigger assembly completely off to check further. Does anyone know what would cause this? I was thinking maybe the clutch but everywhere I read people say that if the clutch were the issue the engine would just spin freely and the head would not. But the engine is obviously trying to spin but is being bound up. Is it worth tearing the whole thing down or should I just go by another? I bought it new only 4 years ago. Seems a little early for the Echo to have such a problem. Any thoughts?:usflag::usflag:
 
Possibly a clutch drum bearing--a pain to change unless you have some long nosed snap ring pliers, but not expensive for the bearing! Remove front cover of engine and see how freely the clutch drum turns!
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While there check your clutches and springs
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Even if it's clutch and springs, that should just mean that head turns all time. A clutch that is totally worn out keeps clutch from engaging--engine runs and winds up! If engine bogs down I still think it's clutch drum bearing, if engine runs good, but head doesn't turn, it's probably the clutch.
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Thanks for the replies folks! I will go ahead and remove the clutch tonight and see if that allows it to spin. If so then new clutch it is!
Look, the shoes/springs are attached to the flywheel/engine, and turn with it. So probably the bearings, as was mentioned, or, the drum came unglued .
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Even if it's clutch and springs, that should just mean that head turns all time. A clutch that is totally worn out keeps clutch from engaging--engine runs and winds up! If engine bogs down I still think it's clutch drum bearing, if engine runs good, but head doesn't turn, it's probably the clutch.
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Then it must be the drum bearing then (not sure what that is). The head does not spin at all, the engine will NOT wind up, only bog down when squeezing the throttle. And this is after removing the head and flex drive shaft.

Is it worth replacing the bearing or better to just get a new one? I am looking at the Husqvarna 223L...lowes has them at $249.
 
Probably one of 2 things. Something is jammed between the housing/outside case and the clutch drum or one or two bearings are locked up in the housing that the clutch drum is in.

I had the same problem 2 months ago with an echo srm 230. Brother used it and it was fine. I went to a job a few days later and it would hardly turn when giving it gas. It probably went bad on its last use and when it cooled the bearings locked up. They were about $4 each online and cheaper than a primer bulb.

Feel free to pm me your number after you have it apart and I can give you a quick walk through so you arent bang things at the wrong time. Did it to 2 grey srm 230 in the last 2 months. I could never find a video when I looked.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Probably one of 2 things. Something is jammed between the housing/outside case and the clutch drum or one or two bearings are locked up in the housing that the clutch drum is in.

I had the same problem 2 months ago with an echo srm 230. Brother used it and it was fine. I went to a job a few days later and it would hardly turn when giving it gas. It probably went bad on its last use and when it cooled the bearings locked up. They were about $4 each online and cheaper than a primer bulb.

Feel free to pm me your number after you have it apart and I can give you a quick walk through so you arent bang things at the wrong time. Did it to 2 grey srm 230 in the last 2 months. I could never find a video when I looked.
Thanks Stonny, will do!
 
Then it must be the drum bearing then (not sure what that is). The head does not spin at all, the engine will NOT wind up, only bog down when squeezing the throttle. And this is after removing the head and flex drive shaft.

Is it worth replacing the bearing or better to just get a new one? I am looking at the Husqvarna 223L...lowes has them at $249.
Before you replace your trimmer, remove the clutch cover and turn/spin the clutch drum by hand. Feel and listen for any noise or resistance. The drum should spin freely. NEVER and I say it again, NEVER run an engine with the clutch cover off - the clutch could come apart and send parts flying. If the drum spins freely then I'd look at the exhaust & fuel systems next. Check the exhaust port/muffler/spark arrest screen for any build up of carbon. The age of your trimmer leads me to question the metering diaphragm. As the diaphragm ages it gets stiff and develops wrinkles (kind of like me) which would inhibit proper fuel flow and this could cause a running condition like you describe. Just a few more things to check before you replace the entire machine.
 
Before you replace your trimmer, remove the clutch cover and turn/spin the clutch drum by hand. Feel and listen for any noise or resistance. The drum should spin freely. NEVER and I say it again, NEVER run an engine with the clutch cover off - the clutch could come apart and send parts flying. If the drum spins freely then I'd look at the exhaust & fuel systems next. Check the exhaust port/muffler/spark arrest screen for any build up of carbon. The age of your trimmer leads me to question the metering diaphragm. As the diaphragm ages it gets stiff and develops wrinkles (kind of like me) which would inhibit proper fuel flow and this could cause a running condition like you describe. Just a few more things to check before you replace the entire machine.
Ok Uncle Knuckle, tell the truth, do you have experience running with clutch cover off??? I do--at idle only, shut it down quickly, and told self I'd never do that again--or tell anyone!! Ok, I'm still keeping half of the promise!!!
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the absolute first thing is to take spark plug and put some 2 stroke oil, in it small amount. Then take recoil off. Then you can try to rotate it manually....I never had a crank bearing freeze on echo. I have seen em seize....piston in cyclijder. I also got deb r is from broken spring between the magnet and coil.
 
Ok Uncle Knuckle, tell the truth, do you have experience running with clutch cover off??? I do--at idle only, shut it down quickly, and told self I'd never do that again--or tell anyone!! Ok, I'm still keeping half of the promise!!!
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LOL! To answer your question, no. But I do confess of my first brake job many moons ago where I bled the rear wheel cylinders with the drums off. Doh. I learned how to rebuild wheel cylinders that day, also.

Knowing that the clutch on hand held equipment is of centrifugal design then it stands to reason that the drum must be in place to keep the shoes from expanding too far. In the case of a 9,000rpm engine the results could be deadly. I know I read it in a service manual at one time and it just stuck with me.
 
the absolute first thing is to take spark plug and put some 2 stroke oil, in it small amount. Then take recoil off. Then you can try to rotate it manually....I never had a crank bearing freeze on echo. I have seen em seize....piston in cyclijder. I also got deb r is from broken spring between the magnet and coil.
Hi ed3hess, I believe in this case the engine runs and idles just fine. I agree that the post is a little confusing with the title saying "Echo SRM-225 engine will not rotate" but in the first post he says the engine idles but won't rev up. Go back and read the first post and see what you make of it.

I am going with the engine idles but won't rev up and after confirming that the clutch drum bearing is not seized or grinding the next thing I'd check is exhaust port/muffler/screen for blockage then the carburetor diaphragm for stiffness and/or wrinkles.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Update:

I called Echo and it was still under warranty. I took it to the approved repair shop and they confirmed that the drum bearings were seized. He said two sets of bearing were seized..one was the drum bearing, not sure the other, but it was in the same area. According to the shop the bearings seized due to rust..so echo will not cover the repair. The cost was $68 to repair it.

After much research I went out and bought husqvarna 223L. I must say, I do not care for this trimmer. It runs much rougher with a lot of vibration compared to the Echo, it drinks gas like crazy. I could trim my entire yard 3-4 times on a tank of gas with the echo. It took 1 full tank in the husky to do my yard once. The damn exhaust is at the top of the motor so I have a light burn where my elbow and the underneath of my forearm rested against the exhaust. Bad design, as the top of the motor constantly bumps my elbow. And the very worst part about the husky was the string spool design. In comparison to the Echo, its a complete joke. It relies on hooking the string on a nub and then wrapping it around the spool instead of actually threading the string through the spool like on the echo. Needless to say, I paid the $68 to get back my echo and will be returning the husky today.

Thanks for everyone help and feedback!!
 
Update:

I called Echo and it was still under warranty. I took it to the approved repair shop and they confirmed that the drum bearings were seized. He said two sets of bearing were seized..one was the drum bearing, not sure the other, but it was in the same area. According to the shop the bearings seized due to rust..so echo will not cover the repair. The cost was $68 to repair it.

After much research I went out and bought husqvarna 223L. I must say, I do not care for this trimmer. It runs much rougher with a lot of vibration compared to the Echo, it drinks gas like crazy. I could trim my entire yard 3-4 times on a tank of gas with the echo. It took 1 full tank in the husky to do my yard once. The damn exhaust is at the top of the motor so I have a light burn where my elbow and the underneath of my forearm rested against the exhaust. Bad design, as the top of the motor constantly bumps my elbow. And the very worst part about the husky was the string spool design. In comparison to the Echo, its a complete joke. It relies on hooking the string on a nub and then wrapping it around the spool instead of actually threading the string through the spool like on the echo. Needless to say, I paid the $68 to get back my echo and will be returning the husky today.

Thanks for everyone help and feedback!!
Well, unless ya store it outside, uncovered, or as Patriot mentioned, washed it and put it away wet, it would be dam near impossible to rust up solid, two sets of sealed ball bearings.
I personally have never seen em rusted up, never. Seen em seized, worn out loose, etc. but not rusted to the point of not turning.

And yeah, them husky trimmers are just plain junk.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Well, unless ya store it outside, uncovered, or as Patriot mentioned, washed it and put it away wet, it would be dam near impossible to rust up solid, two sets of sealed ball bearings.
I personally have never seen em rusted up, never. Seen em seized, worn out loose, etc. but not rusted to the point of not turning.

And yeah, them husky trimmers are just plain junk.
I have a confession. I mistreated my poor echo a few times by leaving it in the rain. I know, its terrible...what the hell is wrong with me. I am sure that's why this happened. I will be sure to never treat my echo in such a way again.
 
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