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Discussion starter · #21 ·
This is very interesting. I have never thought of the addition of charcoal / carbon in charcoal form. I'll have to put my old organic chem hat on and think about the why's. Off the cuff what I remember is that carbon in this form is very non reactive with anything. It's very stable and likes to be that way. Very different from "activated carbon". It's in no chemical composition that makes it available or have an ability to bid to anything per se. But going to mull this over.
 
This is very interesting. I have never thought of the addition of charcoal / carbon in charcoal form. I'll have to put my old organic chem hat on and think about the why's. Off the cuff what I remember is that carbon in this form is very non reactive with anything. It's very stable and likes to be that way. Very different from "activated carbon". It's in no chemical composition that makes it available or have an ability to bid to anything per se. But going to mull this over.
Ionic exchange is where the activity is. It has a relatively high amount of negatively charged surfaces that rate a high cation exchange capacity.

Before AC was readily available regular charcoal fulfilled the same roles, we just used larger quantities.

The magic to me is a plants ability to trade abundant cations for ones more scarce.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
The simplest explanation I've heard for biochar, humates etc is they provide room and board for microbes.
Yes.

Also I would think biochar being carbon, captures nitrogen from rainfalls or when a fertilizer application is applied.

I do have one concern about playing biochar to lawn areas, will it break down or capture pre-emergent or insect grub control products if too much is applied.

I had talked to the rep about this and they don't know yet.
 
Yes.

Also I would think biochar being carbon, captures nitrogen from rainfalls or when a fertilizer application is applied.

I do have one concern about playing biochar to lawn areas, will it break down or capture pre-emergent or insect grub control products if too much is applied.

I had talked to the rep about this and they don't know yet.
My only reference is cheap charcoal filtered vodka from the grocery store, but if after 5 passes it's still not clean I think the effect is probably minimal.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I've got a few accounts I am going to be doing core aeration & overseeding because of fungus isues and I will be applying the carbon Pro G product after the core aeration.

One I will take before and after pict and hopefully give update on it next season also.
 
Does anyone have any further reviews on this? I know its not a fertilizer but i guess its supposed to improve the soil.....right? Im interested in this product from what ive read but the local siteone reps have no idea about it. They just sell it. Also, what time of year should it be put down?
 
https://char-grow.com/biochar-vs-charcoal-vs-activated-carbon

Might be a good read. I know farmers as well as some homeowners that would burn down their lawns and crop lands. Got rid of any thatch for sure and left with a lot of carbon. Lawns seemed to do very well. This was when I was kid. Munis around here no longer take kind to people burning their lawns.
 
Does anyone have any further reviews on this? I know its not a fertilizer but i guess its supposed to improve the soil.....right? Im interested in this product from what ive read but the local siteone reps have no idea about it. They just sell it. Also, what time of year should it be put down?
You might want to contact https://humates.com/ They are in New Mexico and supply humates for soil improvement.
 
Does anyone have any further reviews on this? I know its not a fertilizer but i guess its supposed to improve the soil.....right? Im interested in this product from what ive read but the local siteone reps have no idea about it. They just sell it. Also, what time of year should it be put down?
Its a soil improvement, with the philosophy being that if you improve the soil and get the microbes munching and active, you basically have free Nitrogen being made and fed to the turf, allowing you to eventually cut back on fert.

It should be put down on warm soil, microbes are working when the soil is warmest obviously. You can go from spring til fall.

There is no limit to what you can put down, it won't burn the grass up.

I personally believe that bio/humic stuff helps/works, but its going to take a few applications and some time to see results. Its more for long term health than the macros.
 
Its a soil improvement, with the philosophy being that if you improve the soil and get the microbes munching and active, you basically have free Nitrogen being made and fed to the turf, allowing you to eventually cut back on fert.

It should be put down on warm soil, microbes are working when the soil is warmest obviously. You can go from spring til fall.

There is no limit to what you can put down, it won't burn the grass up.

I personally believe that bio/humic stuff helps/works, but its going to take a few applications and some time to see results. Its more for long term health than the macros.
I just wanted to say it also increases the cation exchange capacity of the soil. This improves the soils ability to retain certain nutrients and minerals and prevent them leaching out before a plant consumes them.

I believe they work too. I've seen good improvement from poor soil with fairly aggressive applications of humate.
 
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