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Best seed for cool season lawn?

14K views 34 replies 12 participants last post by  Stripes4daze  
#1 ·
Looking to overseed my personal lawn this fall. Northern Indiana. Lawn is a sunny mix of KBG, rye,
creeping red fescue and maybe another fescue mixed in. Live by on a big sand hill. It’s terrible for
heat stress and fungus. I’ve heard many of you talk about higher quality seed. What are some of the best options?
 
#8 ·
Think about Lesco Park and Athletic Mix.
If you are going to Home Depot--then Scotts "Sun and Shade".
If you are going mail order--Maybe Outside Pride.

 
#13 · (Edited)

Here is an updated review of recommended cultivars, in 2020. We can assume the weather is a bit hotter in the Maryland Virginia area.

They mention perennial ryegrass disease problems when mixed with Kentucky bluegrass in Maryland. Picture shows red thread.

Except in shade, they do not much recommend the fine fescues--poor heat tolerance.
 
#14 · (Edited)
And from Maryland, " No more than 15% perennial ryegrass should be used in a mixture with Kentucky bluegrass, as the perennial ryegrass will predominate if seeded at a higher rate. Although perennial ryegrass is generally not recommended for mixing with Kentucky bluegrass due to the susceptibility of perennial ryegrass to numerous disease problems, its inclusion may be warranted with Kentucky bluegrass where erosion may be a significant problem during establishment. Perennial ryegrass germinates and becomes established much more quickly than Kentucky bluegrass. "

And another quote from Maryland,
" The effect of the mixing of perennial ryegrass (photo on right) with turf-type tall fescue on red thread disease. Perennial ryegrass should generally not be mixed with turf-type tall fescue due to increased disease problems."
 
#21 ·
Remember that perennial rye comes up quick--but bluegrass is slow to germinate and slow in the first two weeks after germination.
Be ready to be patient and keep the soil constantly moist.
If soil temp is high, germination is faster--however if the soil temp is high and the soil is constantly over-wet--a soil fungus like pythium can wipe out big sections quickly.
In some cases a fungicide might be good insurance.
Pennington includes "Apron" fungicide (meta-laxal), in most of their seed as a seed coating.
Also Barenbrug, has fungicide if you are buying in quantity, 50 pounds.
 
#23 ·
Remember that perennial rye comes up quick--but bluegrass is slow to germinate and slow in the first two weeks after germination.
Be ready to be patient and keep the soil constantly moist.
If soil temp is high, germination is faster--however if the soil temp is high and the soil is constantly over-wet--a soil fungus like pythium can wipe out big sections quickly.
In some cases a fungicide might be good insurance.
Pennington includes "Apron" fungicide (meta-laxal), in most of their seed as a seed coating.
Also Barenbrug, has fungicide if you are buying in quantity, 50 pounds.
Jumpstart KBG comes up faster than rye has many of the benefits of fescue and all the good looks of blue grass
The miracle of seed engineering
 
#24 ·
Looking to overseed my personal lawn this fall. Northern Indiana. Lawn is a sunny mix of KBG, rye,
creeping red fescue and maybe another fescue mixed in. Live by on a big sand hill. It's terrible for
heat stress and fungus. I've heard many of you talk about higher quality seed. What are some of the best options?
TTTF after a punishing scalp of the lawn. It will root several feet deep in the sand and be the most drought tolerant.
 
#28 ·
On second edit--Hineline is right--a mix containing some turf-type tall fescue will add a lot of quality and stamina during hot, dry weather.

Do not delay. The best grass seed is in short supply. The top varieties are sold out.
Buy the seed right away. The best seeding date is about August 20 in your area. Warm soil temps cause rapid germination. Cool weather of fall begins just after germination.
Try to seed 8 weeks before frost in your town.
Cut short, add starter fert.
Sow seed with slit seeder. If not available, then rake heavily and broadcast seed.
If seed is expensive (of course it is high), put extra careful effort into excellent seedbed preparation. Aim for high soil-to-seed contact. You can mulch with straw, or use the raking residue to cover the seed--thereby retaining moisture.
Water every day for 30 days. Buy a Melnor battery-operated water timer to make this easy.
Ignore the weeds--frost will kill most of them. Be sure to use maximum weed and crabgrass control next spring.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Here are the average frost dates.

Try to sow seed 8 weeks before frost--if you follow that rule--August 2nd would be ideal. It might still be hot--so--be sure to have good irrigation in place. If no irrigation, then I suggest late August.
Frost will not actually hurt your new grass--but it will grow very slowly until warm temps return and rise above 50 F.
Cut short--mow down the old grass, weeds and crabgrass.
Actually, most experts now suggest "starter fert" be applied about the day of the first germination--when the new grass is about a half-inch tall.
For best results apply additional "grow-in" fertilizer after germination, at about week 3 and 6.

and...
 
#30 ·
I’d like to seed my lawns this year with TTTF. I made the mistake of using PRG last year and I didn’t hold up too well this summer. I’ve also got some new accounts with a variety of grass types within the lawn. Is there any way to transition without completely starting over. I was also thinking of using GCI turfs brand of seed. Any reviews? Thanks for any help