Maybe check the resevoir for metal shavings.
Also if & when you do any work on the hydros (or sooner), replace the small rubber "T" line that runs back to the resevoir from each pump...it's a $15. part. Mine clogged last year and blew the pump on the side that clogged. One more thing, you can buy a rebuild seal kit for about $40. and replace any weeping seals. Good luck!

 

I checked with a magnent and there were no shavings. Is it a hard job doing the seals. Any special tools, ext. How much more involved is a full rebuild, or just wait till they blow. Are they leaking just from age or is there something in there about to blow. I just don't want to go threw a reseal if there just going to blow anyway.
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I redid one last year , mine was leaking from the shaft seal. I did not re-build it myself but sent it to a hydro shop . They rebuilt it and i think it was about 125.00 or close to it .
The hardest part of the job is getting it out and putting it back in . It would've been easier had i had some help holding it while I screwed the bolts in .
I already had the engine off being over-hauled so I was able to use a gear puller to pull the pulley off . I'm pretty sure you going to have to do the same as its a real tight fit in that area. But i know you have to remove the pulley before you can pull it out.

 

You won't know without a flowtest or a visual inspection.(with you have to do anyway). It could very well be the gskt or o-ring just dried due to heat. Especially if there's no metal in tank and it has no strange noises

 

only noise it has it a little groan when you first go forward. I dont remember what is supposed to sound like. After you go about 1/8 way forward it goes away.

 

Its not that bad of a PITA, but you do need to know what to look for. It does not require any special tools, but as stated previously the only way to test the system for integrity is with a Hydrogear flow gauge. The things to look for is wear in the pump especially in the kidney ports of the thrust plate. Any signs of wear that can be felt with a finger nail will certainly constitute a pump replacement. If a pump case gasket has just failed and the pump itself is fine installing a seal kit is fairly straight forward. The key to this is the pump has to be surgical clean when reassembled. I typically will flush the entire system if any wear metal is found in the reservoir.

 

Is there any other reason that the pump would be leaking other than bad seals. I am just trying to figure out all the possible things that im looking at. Thanks again for all the help.

 

Is there any other reason that the pump would be leaking other than bad seals. I am just trying to figure out all the possible things that im looking at. Thanks again for all the help.

If something was to let loose inside the pump. Example being, one of the thrust bearings came apart and got lodged in the 90* fitting on the return line it could cause the case pressure to build up too high and it would pop a seal. Normally though the output shaft seal is the one that would go first in this situation. It is not uncommon for the case head seal to develop a leak over time just from going through so many heat cycles. You will have to tear into it and take a look and see what kind of shape the pump is in, or have someone put it on a flow gauge and check the droop.

 

Pickup...you seem to be a little intimidated by the pump.
In your case , the cure may be worse than the problem.
Save up for a replacement. When it starts leaking more than a few drops a day.
Attempt the repair.....if you can't get it back together,replace it.
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Pickup...you seem to be a little intimidated by the pump.
In your case , the cure may be worse than the problem.
Save up for a replacement. When it starts leaking more than a few drops a day.
Attempt the repair.....if you can't get it back together,replace it.
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I concur. A few drops is just an annoyance and not much to be concerned with. If it starts to become a gusher then its time to worry. Just keep an eye on the fluid level.

 

I would but its winter and not snowing so i have nothing to do but sit in the shop. Its not that im really intimidated, i just dont want to cause more problems and i like to have all parts on hand before starting a repair.

 

I could give you a pep talk.....not sure how that would work....
Constructive criticism being what it is.
Buy a seal kit....You Can Do It...go gettum...
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thanks, you should be a motivational speaker. lol

 

Pickup....if you need more motivation...
Winter is going to bite hard in 2 to 3 weeks.
It was 47 below in Fairbanks today.
You heard it here first.

Its just turning a few wrenches......as long as nobody moves anything, you'll be fine.
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Two questions 1) Do you have the numbers off the pump? 2) Do you have, and can you take clear digital pictures?

 

ricky, I do have the pump numbers. They are pj-bgab-ey1x-xxxx. And yea, i could take some clear pics. What do you need a pic of. Its up on jackstands 4 ft in the air with the deck off so that wont be a problem.

piston slapper, i sure hope your right. Im going nuts. Theres only so much wrenching you can do, and we have spit about 175 cords of wood in the past 3 weeks.

 

Slapper wher u located in tampa .. Im in Lutz

 

The numbers were for repair instructions, and the pic were for AFTER you get it apart.
I'll post the manual soon. Look it over first, then decide if you want to tackle it.

 

Where can I find the seal kit for the pj-bgab-ey1x-xxxx?