Why not just rebuild the valve?
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Because they are old and obsolete....If I remember correctly one is brass body and the other one is an brand I have never heard of before (I dont remember the brand seems like it was HIT or something...) and then the 3rd valve is just in the way and might as well be replaced.

 

Did find this video...

 

Take some pictures before, during, and after.

 

Auto drains on a main line is a horrible idea ( Or anywhere for that matter if you have a conscious in trying to save water usage). Please don't do that.

If I was to re-do a manifold I'd prefer to cut the entire manifold out and rebuild it ( mani/ valves first ) then the lats 2nd

 

Dig it , take a pic and email it to supply house. One dosnt turn a profit " running to lowes"

 

Heres the deal. The nearest supply house is 50 miles away. They are bringing me the stuff on their truck route on Tuesday. I may just go and dig it monday so that I know exactly what I need. But even then its 20 minutes of driving one way to get to the job so I was trying to avoid the extra trip.

 

If it was me
If its a medium or jumbo box I'd just reuse the existing box. If not then Id get a new box.
If they are threaded in valves and the pressure side pipe looks good then I'd cut on the lateral side and see if you can screw the valves out even if you need to remove the bonnets.
If they are glued in valves then dig it up cut the valves to come out as one big piece and use that as your template. If you have to use slip fixes then use them on the lateral side. I personally would avoid slip fixes like the plague near manifolds.

Lot of "ifs" and I could add several more so until you know exactly what you have it's tough to help. The solution to your having the right stuff problem because suppliers are so far away means you really need to get a large inventory stocked so you can pull up to a job and handle any circumstance. Big pickle or paint buckets are great for putting the dirt in. Having a tarp is nice as well.

 

So should I dig it up the day before or just do it all the same day?

 

So should I dig it up the day before or just do it all the same day?

Do it all the same day if you have inventory. The stuff you need to redo a manifold is pretty basic irrigation supplies that should be on hand at all times. I've seen and dealt with irrigators that don't want to carry inventory and make trips to the supply house and try to buy just what they need. Drive up to job. Do the work. Get your check. Drive to next job and repeat.

 

So should I dig it up the day before or just do it all the same day?

Build the new one before you get there, and have the materials you need to reconnect the main and laterals.

 

Do it all the same day if you have inventory. The stuff you need to redo a manifold is pretty basic irrigation supplies that should be on hand at all times. I've seen and dealt with irrigators that don't want to carry inventory and make trips to the supply house and try to buy just what they need. Drive up to job. Do the work. Get your check. Drive to next job and repeat.

I don't carry inventory yet because I have been an LI for all of 1.5 months. I will at some point carry it. Plus I am not full time and do not do a whole lot of work.

Build the new one before you get there, and have the materials you need to reconnect the main and laterals.

Yes that's a good idea. Since I am not 100% sure on the box size and where the piping comes in (25 years of replacements and mods from both irrigators and maintenance men) I think I will assemble it onsite. But in the future I will assemble beforehand.

 

For instance the way I figured out what size of pipe was feeding into the valves was by looking at the lettering on the compression fitting that is attached right downstream of the valve LOL.

 

I bet if you looked you could find parts to rebuild the leaking valve. You can still get parts for HIT valves, just have to order them. Personally, I will always rebuild a valve before rebuilding a manifold, even if it means special ordering parts to do it. It's cheaper for the customer, easier for you and you have less liability on what sounds like a possibly problematic system anyway (the compression fitting is a red flag for me).

When I do need to special order parts for a valve I've not seen before, I order a couple of extras. They're generally cheap enough and the next time I run into it somewhere, I have it. As was already said, you don't make money making return trips.

 

No offense intended, but it sounds to me like you can get an irrigator's license in Texas w/o much field experience? What use is that then?

 

I bet if you looked you could find parts to rebuild the leaking valve. You can still get parts for HIT valves, just have to order them. Personally, I will always rebuild a valve before rebuilding a manifold, even if it means special ordering parts to do it. It's cheaper for the customer, easier for you and you have less liability on what sounds like a possibly problematic system anyway (the compression fitting is a red flag for me).

When I do need to special order parts for a valve I've not seen before, I order a couple of extras. They're generally cheap enough and the next time I run into it somewhere, I have it. As was already said, you don't make money making return trips.

Rebuild a Hit valve? Really?

 

For instance the way I figured out what size of pipe was feeding into the valves was by looking at the lettering on the compression fitting that is attached right downstream of the valve LOL.

Sounds like you could use a Pipe Sizer.

 

Sounds like you could use a Pipe Sizer.

A more useful tool would be a good quality dial or digital caliper. Of course it is a bit more difficult to use in tight spaces.

 

No offense intended, but it sounds to me like you can get an irrigator's license in Texas w/o much field experience? What use is that then?

The license is the knowledge part. Not much different than going to college before landing your first job. at least the license part requires some basic knowledge of irrigation.

Your sentence could also be stated this way.

In many states one can enter into irrigation work without any field experience.

 

Mcc can you make even a small investment in inventory?

Such as
10 1" els
4 1" tees
10 3/4" ells
4 3/4" tees
6 1/2" ells
2 1/2" tees
6 1x 3/4 RB
6 1x1/2 RB
6 3/4x1/2 RB
10 1" ma
4 1" valves
Maybe some slip fixes, couplings, 20' of 1",3/4",1/2" pipe.
Cutters, solvent, glue
Tray

 

The license is the knowledge part. Not much different than going to college before landing your first job.

ROFL ..... not even close to being comparable.

 

No offense intended, but it sounds to me like you can get an irrigator's license in Texas w/o much field experience? What use is that then?

We've been trying to get some sort of Journeyman/Apprenticeship program going here but it hasn't happened just yet.

I didn't get my license for many years since I was working for people that were already licensed. I'm glad that I was able to have the experience of working on residential, commercial, institutional, and golf course installations and service before becoming licensed.

 

I have never done one of these before but have plumbing experience and am confident I know basically what I need to do just wanted some tips from the more experienced guys.
Thanks in advance to any help y'all can offer. Like I said this is new but I am confident I can handle it
Mike (TX LI0019930)

I don't know how the numbers run in Texas, but is this a plumbers or an irrigators license?

Mick

 

only 19,000+ licensed irrigators in Texas?

 

I don't know how the numbers run in Texas, but is this a plumbers or an irrigators license?

Mick

LI = Licensed Irrigator
MPL = Master Plumber's License