NO, just leave it and enjoy a nice thick lawn, that's IF all the seed germinates and grows, nature will take care of it

 

How big is your yard? How big were the 4 bags?

 

It's 2000 sq ft in total, but I was seeding a 1000 sq ft area.

 

WOW! As @hal said: just keep seed moist and see how it does. Most likely the rye & fescue will easily beat the KBG to germination and you won't get much if any KBG germination.

One thing I notice is it looks like you just broadcast the seed on top of existing soil. Not a good method to ensure germination. Next time I would highly recommend you slice seed (most effective way I've seen for seeding). Slice seeding really intermixes the seed into the soil, ensuring much better germination rate.

 

WOW! As @hal said: just keep seed moist and see how it does. Most likely the rye & fescue will easily beat the KBG to germination and you won't get much if any KBG germination.

One thing I notice is it looks like you just broadcast the seed on top of existing soil. Not a good method to ensure germination. Next time I would highly recommend you slice seed (most effective way I've seen for seeding). Slice seeding really intermixes the seed into the soil, ensuring much better germination rate.

Well after broadcasting the seed, I used the backside of a rake to incorporate it in, then covered everything with a 1/4 of screened topsoil.

 

In fact, now that I think of it, go rent a slice seeder and slice that seed into the soil NOW! I did 4 lawns last Saturday and I broadcast seed 1st, then sliced it into soil immediately after.
I followed advice from several knowledgable folks who said broadcast seed 1st, then slice it into soil. Last year I used the seed box on the slice seeder so slicing/seeding all at once. Seed lever kept moving on me and one can't see amount of seed being dropped. Broadcasting 1st ensures better, more even coverage.

 

In fact, now that I think of it, go rent a slice seeder and slice that seed into the soil NOW! I did 4 lawns last Saturday and I broadcast seed 1st, then sliced it into soil immediately after.
I followed advice from several knowledgable folks who said broadcast seed 1st, then slice it into soil. Last year I used the seed box on the slice seeder so slicing/seeding all at once. Seed lever kept moving on me and one can't see amount of seed being dropped. Broadcasting 1st ensures better, more even coverage.

I'll have to try the slice seeder next time.

 

Run the slice seeder in two different directions across you lawn. Yes, it will really cut up the soil and leave a fair amount of thatch/debri on top. Just leave the debris, it will help keep moisture underneath. Here are two. threads with photos on slice seeding:

Singer’s Seeder before and after pics

I finally had some time this year to spend time on my lawn. With work, I hadn't touching it in 5-6 years....nothing. Wish I had before pics but but it was too bad to document. My neighbor were saying, "You do what for a living?" I sprayed Roundup with my 2.5 gal electric backpack sprayer...

www.lawnsite.com

2 Stinger Super Seeder Projects - let's see how...

I've got 2 separate properties I have prepped and ready for overseeding tomorrow (weather permitting). Both lawns are predominantly Kentucky Bluegrass and I will be overseeding both with an ALL KBG blend from a local seed supplier. One customer has a 4 ft wide blvd that gets trashed from...

www.lawnsite.com

 

I've never applied seed at the rate on the package, usually about three times what the instructions say.

 

Really? And you don't have problems?

 

Take a look at the seeding specifications from Seed Research o f Oregon.

Seed Research | Pro Turf

Choose DLF Seed Reasearch brand for exceptional turf quality, density, and disease resistance on your golf course. Our Seed Reasearch varieties ensure healthy, resilient, and beautiful playing surfaces.

www.sroseed.com

You want 14 to 17 seeds per square inch if you sowed turf type tall fescue. Of course, you planted a mixture.
This should work out fine. Seeds close together, but not touching, will work.
Keep plenty of water on it. Every day water. Twice per day if the weather is warm or dry.
The seed is on top of the soil--germination is better by far if you can rake the seed into the soil--ideally buried about a quarter-inch deep.
Starter fertilizer would be helpful.

 

It isn't going to matter, because most of those seeds will not germinate anyway. You need to incorporate them in into the soil or add top soil on top.

 

BINGO! That's why I recommended @jlp613 go rent a slice seeder and slice them into the soil ASAP! @jlp613 let us know if you did so...

Wild guess, but I'm guessing @jlp613 found an excuse not to:

• football game is on
• baseball game is on
• judy has a soccer game
• whatever

Pretty common. I even had an elderly customer (78) who had cancer, wore a colostomy bag and was all hunched over. Told him in MAY to get his children/grandchildren signed up for Labor Day weekend OR the weekend after to help overseeding. Gave plenty of notice so no "oh if only you'd asked last week excuses" come Sept.
That 78 YO guy helped me all day. Several children/grandchildren dropped by, not a single one offered help.

 

I always thought overseeding was a stupid, waste of money.
I always scuffed up the soil in any thin/bare areas, worked some seed in, then covered it with a top dressing of peat moss/lawn soil. Works great, but lots of work.

Last fall I just walked around tossing out seed by hand over the thin patches.
The seed was about 2 years old and I knew I didn't have time to do it the right way, so "screw it", I just threw down the seed. It worked! within a week, I could see a ton of fine blades of grass growing.
I couldn't believe that it actually germinated without being worked into a prepared surface.

 

I'm pretty sure I put down far more seed than the bag calls for every time I've ever done any seeding because the bag never covers the area they say it will on the bag.

Note that I'm a complete amateur when it comes to PLANTING grass - I get paid to MOW it.
I only plant it in my own yard - and with two dogs, I'm always working on patching things up.

 

Leave the grass seed down and post a bunch of before pics for us.

Then follow up with some after pics every few days.

 

Leave the grass seed down and post a bunch of before pics for us.

Then follow up with some after pics every few days.

 

If by chance your lawn comes in too thick, wait until next year to aerate so the new turf has a chance to fully establish itself. Aeration really tears up the turf.

 

You sure you're in the right place?

 

Yep. For decades I used cold steel to make 80 acres of good pastures, mowing at least twice a year to control thorny plants if the field wasn't used for 2 crops of hay. The sheep, horses, and visitors loved it. The guy across the road hired a lawn service. His was brown & ugly by fall. He actually plowed it under one year, had it professionally reseeded, no change. Since he dropped the service, his looks like ours. I keep the mower as high as possible, 2"-3", and the lawn was & is solid green. I got maybe 60# of comb honey from each beehive in the fall. At 74 I' cancer-free and active, as is my 76 year-old wife.

https://www.aradc.org › news › weed-challenges-top-mind-farmers

Roundup Weed Killer | Uses, Safety & Cancer Risk

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My wife reminded me that she would spray vinegar on garden weeds, wipe them out, and on them growing along the yard fences were I couldn't gat close. One of the reasons for mowing the lawn high was to leave white clover for the honeybees and dandelions for butterflies. Incidentally, is there an absence of butterflies in your area? We've seen almost zero instead of dozens, many different varieties.

 

Here's the progress after 13 days:

 

Looks like it is coming in nicely. Does not look overly thick. Apply a round of fertilizer if you have not already. Don't worry about the weeds now, those can be sprayed later when the lawn is more mature

 

I put down starter fertilizer when I seeded. I was planning on putting down regular fertilizer in 6 weeks.

 

What state are you in?

 

Massachusetts

 

Make sure you get that fert down with enough time to spare before cold weather hits, so the grass is able to fully absorb it.

 

Maybe I'll do it 4 weeks from now instead.

When do you think I should start mowing? I'm always afraid that walking on the delicate new seedlings will crush them.

 

Maybe I'll do it 4 weeks from now instead.

When do you think I should start mowing? I'm always afraid that walking on the delicate new seedlings will crush them.

When you do your 2nd round of fertilizer, use a starter fertilizer (you want the phosphorous for root growth).

 

I think mowing will be OK.
A thousand years ago, sheep walked on new grass in the fall--and grazed on tender new grass--and it survived.
If the soil is reasonably moist, cut grass will grow new tillers. Likewise walked-on grass.
But only if the day time temperatures are reasonable.
I think nitrogen is the most beneficial.

 

Here's how it looks almost 4 weeks later. My only problem right now (besides some weeds) is the mower wheels are flattening the grass. Is this because the grass is so young or are there other possible causes?

 

Could be because the grass is "young", or it could be the type of grass.
I have a customer with tall fescue and it's a nightmare with "flattened" grass. She complains about it - wants me to use my smaller mower, but I don't see the same thing in other lawns - it's her grass.