First you need to remove the kill/ground wire from the coil/module at the coil. No spark= bad coil. If ya get spark, ya know the problem lies in the kill circuit. Could be a pinched wire at the shroud, could be a machine safety switch/circuit.
Get ya a wiring diagram from the Cub website.

 

Disconnect the kill wire to the coil and see if you get spark.
IF you do, the kill wire is being grounded somewhere.
Possibly a bad or maladjusted safety switch?

 

Here's a schematic.
ANYTHING that grounds the M terminal of the key switch will kill spark.

 

I did remove kill wire prior to replacing module....I had no spark either way so I replaced module....And same thing again so I used yet another new module to no avail.....I get no spark with or without kill wire attached and I have a new module installed.....Thats why I am scratching my head....

 

Here's a schematic.
ANYTHING that grounds the M terminal of the key switch will kill spark.

I will have to do some more diving through the wiring to see if anything else is grounding out...

 

IF the kill wire is disconnected from the module and no spark, there can only be a couple things.
Bad module.
Weak magnet. (is the coil close enough to the magnet?)
Bad ground to the coil mounting.

 

I have discovered that a green wire that comes from the neg terminal on the battery is getting extremely hot and even smoking just a little from somwhere around the battery or wiring under the "dash" of the mower when turning the engine over....This wire after leaving the battery splits into two wires...both green...One of them runs to a termial on the solenoid..I think it is a ground,,,not one of the main two solenoid terminals....the entire wire gets really hot when turning over.....This is very frustrating..lol....Not entirely sure how I should go about testing what I need to test.....

 

IF the kill wire is disconnected from the module and no spark, there can only be a couple things.
Bad module.
Weak magnet. (is the coil close enough to the magnet?)
Bad ground to the coil mounting.

Magnet is strong, gap is perfect,...Would a bad ground to the coil mounting make a green wire coming from the neg terminal on the battery heat up very hot?

 

Magnet is strong, gap is perfect,...Would a bad ground to the coil mounting make a green wire coming from the neg terminal on the battery heat up very hot?

No.
If that is the correct diagram, the green wire was added by someone else.
You need to go over the battery/chassis/engine grounds and clean/tighten.
BUT, the bad ground/s have nothin' to do with the spark... unless the motor aint' spinnin' fast enough.

 

What does the GREEN wire go to?

As an aside, make sure the motor mounting bolts are tight.
The motor should ground to the chassis and the chassis to the neg. battery cable.
IF someone added an additional ground, it's a band aid covering another problem.

 

If the coil is installed upside down, it ain't gonna work. Dunno if the coil is marked.

 

If the coil is installed upside down, it ain't gonna work. Dunno if the coil is marked.

The coil is in the right way. The mounting holes are offset and you cant put it on wrong...

 

Well, not much left, but try this:
Remove the kill wire from the coil.
Make sure the other wires are hooked up as you originally found them.
Hook a 12v test light up to the kill wire. A test light works better than a meter for this test, but use what ya got. An analog meter works pretty good.
Operate the key switch thru several cycles and speeds.
If you get even a flicker on the light/meter, then you may have fried the new coil/s.
Key switches have been known to fail like that. If so, replace switch.

 

Well, not much left, but try this:
Remove the kill wire from the coil.
Make sure the other wires are hooked up as you originally found them.
Hook a 12v test light up to the kill wire. A test light works better than a meter for this test, but use what ya got. An analog meter works pretty good.
Operate the key switch thru several cycles and speeds.
If you get even a flicker on the light/meter, then you may have fried the new coil/s.
Key switches have been known to fail like that. If so, replace switch.

So you mean connect the light to the actual kill wire and not the kill wire terminal on the ignition module? Because I would have to remove entire engine to get to kill wire on module....This mower is a pain in ass...I will see what I can come up with....

 

So you mean connect the light to the actual kill wire and not the kill wire terminal on the ignition module? Because I would have to remove entire engine to get to kill wire on module....This mower is a pain in ass...I will see what I can come up with....

Yes, yer testin' the key switch/ kill circuit. You might wanna repeat the test right at the key switch M terminal also.
You can also remove the switch and test using 12v to the B terminal on the switch.