I wanted to get some overseeding (w/slitseeder) done this fall, but for one reason or another it kept getting pushed back. I can seed this week, but is it already too late? Would I do better to wait until spring or go ahead and put down? I'm near Columbus, plan on using Earthgro's Tuff Stuff and putting down about 1/2" top soil.
Texmex123
It is recommended that Turf Type Tall Fescue be planted before Oct. 10 in northern Ohio. (where I am located.)
Maybe 5 days later in mid-Ohio. And if you are going to slit seed, there should be no need to use additional soil.
Maybe 5 days later in mid-Ohio. And if you are going to slit seed, there should be no need to use additional soil.
Late, but not too late. Warm soil is better.
Soil temp about 61, in Columbus O.
www.greencastonline.com
With luck and lots of water--new perennial rye should be a half-inch tall in about a week.
Of course, you could always pre-germinate some of the seed in a big bucket of warm water. Pour it through some screen or fabric to remove most of the water.
Spread it out on a concrete floor to dry.
Or...my idea...(no need to dry seed); stir it up good, and then apply wet in water dipping it with a coffee mug. Apply by hand or siphon it out of the bucket with a short piece of garden hose. I am not sure if wet seed in water can be applied with a hand sprayer or backpack sprayer. This needs a test.
A hydroseeder would work fine. Can a skid sprayer apply grass seed--I don't know.
My tests from years past show that seed sown in fall, even November will still germinate, just slow. Seed sown on top of snow will wait until spring--arises about the date of the normal first mowing--about late April around here.
This seed is annual rye--top half, and tall fescue bottom half. Marked off with sticks. Sown Sept 14. Sandy soil. No irrigation. Yes--those are deer tracks.
Soil temp about 61, in Columbus O.
Soil Temparature Maps | GreenCast | Syngenta
With luck and lots of water--new perennial rye should be a half-inch tall in about a week.
Of course, you could always pre-germinate some of the seed in a big bucket of warm water. Pour it through some screen or fabric to remove most of the water.
Spread it out on a concrete floor to dry.
Or...my idea...(no need to dry seed); stir it up good, and then apply wet in water dipping it with a coffee mug. Apply by hand or siphon it out of the bucket with a short piece of garden hose. I am not sure if wet seed in water can be applied with a hand sprayer or backpack sprayer. This needs a test.
A hydroseeder would work fine. Can a skid sprayer apply grass seed--I don't know.
My tests from years past show that seed sown in fall, even November will still germinate, just slow. Seed sown on top of snow will wait until spring--arises about the date of the normal first mowing--about late April around here.
This seed is annual rye--top half, and tall fescue bottom half. Marked off with sticks. Sown Sept 14. Sandy soil. No irrigation. Yes--those are deer tracks.
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add compost to improve clay soil, not topsoil.
Compost is just pure plant material, it'll also add good organic nutrients to grass. Topsoil is compost mixed w clay, sand, and silt (a sort of fine, dusty clay).
Supposedly the composting process produces enough heat (120F) to kill weed seeds in it - there's even risk of fire when composting, plenty of compost piles have ignited, usually takes a rock or glass etc in there to start it.
Compost is just pure plant material, it'll also add good organic nutrients to grass. Topsoil is compost mixed w clay, sand, and silt (a sort of fine, dusty clay).
Supposedly the composting process produces enough heat (120F) to kill weed seeds in it - there's even risk of fire when composting, plenty of compost piles have ignited, usually takes a rock or glass etc in there to start it.
I've had good success with dormant seeding.
1. Don't have to worry about customers not watering the seed.
2. Gives the grass plant about a 15 day head start in the spring which is crucial for root development and plant survival.
3. The practice does better in bare ground or thin lawns.
1. Don't have to worry about customers not watering the seed.
2. Gives the grass plant about a 15 day head start in the spring which is crucial for root development and plant survival.
3. The practice does better in bare ground or thin lawns.
More information and pictures from my test on Lawnsite last year.
Yes, you can seed now. Moisture will not be a problem. Not much will happen until about mid-March when soil temps warm and seasonal green returns to established lawns.
I see no need to add topsoil on top of the seed. And topsoil requires a lot of labor and expense. A quarter-inch of topsoil is about 3/4 cubic yard per thousand sqft.
Yes, you can seed now. Moisture will not be a problem. Not much will happen until about mid-March when soil temps warm and seasonal green returns to established lawns.
I see no need to add topsoil on top of the seed. And topsoil requires a lot of labor and expense. A quarter-inch of topsoil is about 3/4 cubic yard per thousand sqft.
https://www.lawnsite.com/search/580711/?q=seed+winter&c[title_only]=1&c[users]=RigglePLC&o=relevance
Oct 18th is too late to overseed and grow grass plant that will survive the winter in zone 6a.
I have two properties that will get dormant seeding next week. Both were eaten up by the fall armyworm. Both lawns came back after the pest was eradicated. However, both have some areas in the lawn that didn't quite survive because the crowns were exposed to the heat without any irrigation.
Both lawns were aerated in late October. They didn't get seed at the time because both are over an acre and the amount of watering needed to germinate would have been a tall task for the homeowners.
I'll take some pictures next week and follow up in the spring with the result pics.
I have two properties that will get dormant seeding next week. Both were eaten up by the fall armyworm. Both lawns came back after the pest was eradicated. However, both have some areas in the lawn that didn't quite survive because the crowns were exposed to the heat without any irrigation.
Both lawns were aerated in late October. They didn't get seed at the time because both are over an acre and the amount of watering needed to germinate would have been a tall task for the homeowners.
I'll take some pictures next week and follow up in the spring with the result pics.
Worse yet,
I looked up some seed list price at a well-known landscape supplier.
I was shocked. I think the best seed was $414 per 50 pounds.
Plan ahead. Adjust prices. Plan for more complete soil preparation. More preparation labor . You want every seed to germinate.
I looked up some seed list price at a well-known landscape supplier.
I was shocked. I think the best seed was $414 per 50 pounds.
Plan ahead. Adjust prices. Plan for more complete soil preparation. More preparation labor . You want every seed to germinate.
I'm in Massillon Ohio.
I have a couple places to seed.
I plan to overseed in early February.
Using the freeze and thaw cycle.
For the seed to make good contact with the soil.
I have a couple places to seed.
I plan to overseed in early February.
Using the freeze and thaw cycle.
For the seed to make good contact with the soil.
You can seed still no problem! Temps of soil are too low for germination...which is what you want. Lawn will grow in spring. Prep is key! Aerate, dethatch, cleanup, slit-seed and if you can top dress with compost. Follow this order for best results. Use the best seed you can find...Johnathan Green Black Beauty Pro-Turf in my case. $154 per 50# Frost seeding has its risks here in Michigan so its always better for us to get seed in before falls end due to unpredictable weather...could be 70 degrees for a week in march/april then get snow again and freezing temp which can kill seed if it has germinated.
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